Where bouts in NC? We have a NC FTE chapter https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum88/
Nice bunch of people before this virus they would get together for dinner once a month. Because of my work hours I have only gone to 2 or 3 in the 5 years I have been in NC but have also gone to a show or 2.

Being in NC and a 81 you only need a few vacuum lines.
I did see that you have an earlier carb with no bowl vent not a big deal.
So non power brakes and no AC you don't need vacuum to a brake booster of HVAC controls.
So a line from a ported port on the carb to the dist. This port will not have vacuum at idle but will have vacuum any time off idle.
And PCV in the valve cover to manifold vacuum.

If you want manifold vacuum to 1 of the things on the side of the air filter housing that has 2 nipples.
Then a hose from the other nipple to the valve on the air intake of the air filter housing but because you don't have the cool fresh air in front of the radiator or the hot air from the exh manifold there really is no need to have this.
The rest of the lines can be removed and if any of them go to vacuum supply would need to be capped.
Talking of vacuum caps there is a vacuum tree, many ports, down low on the back side of the intake manifold and the caps dry and fall off so check this area good.
Dave ----

 

I'm in Kannapolis, just south of Salisbury.

 

I had to look that up as I had not heard of it, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours from me.

BTW my 81 F100 was like yours, just P/S but I added the power brakes & AC so I have a few more vacuum lines.
Dave ----

 

So I've been steadily working on my truck as time has allowed and waiting on parts to be shipped. I pulled radiator out, did a real good flush, which removed a ton of what looked like stop leak and sludge. I flushed block and heater core really good. I installed new water pump and hoses. Filled with coolant and she runs good, I took it around the block a couple times and checked temp on block, plugs, radiator, thermostat housing, hoses, spark plugs, etc and nothing was over 200 degrees. I am running it without a thermostat right this moment. Tomorrow I will get a new one, test it in a pot of water and install it. The one I was running over heated and locked in the open position. Not sure of any one thing or combination of everything but it seems to be fixed and running good at the moment. I did locate a vacuum leak from the PCV valve ( back of valve cover, two lines coming off of it, the top one is not capped or running to anything) when I sealed it with my finger she really started to purr. I really appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge, tips and tricks. Next I plan on removing the smog pump and cleaning up vacuum lines.

 

Good to hear you go it running good.
That top port on the PCV should go to the purge valve for the evap system canisters and carb bowl vent.
If you don't have the 3 port purge valve then just cap the PCV and the lines to the canisters & bowl vent.
If you hook up the lines, should have a factory Tee, right to the PCV you will end up with a vacuum leak don't ask how I know

BTW when testing a cooling system I like to use water first this way if any issues you wont loose coolant only water.
When I thought my new stat was stuck open, low temp showing on gauge, I replaced it again but not to loose coolant I put a hose down in the radiator and sucked it dry.
I did not loose any coolant.
Also be careful when putting the stat back in. They like to slip down and out of the groove and when you tighten down the housing bolts you crack the housing.
When I installed the first stat, in cleaning the housing I saw a hair line crack ........ well the bolt ear fell off in my hand!
I then know why all the blue snot RTV was used
Dave ----