Brake Pedal Issues and Cooling System Problem
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New User
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From: Kannapolis, NC
Brake Pedal Issues and Cooling System Problem
I have an 81 F100, mechanical Brakes (no booster). I have replaced front calipers and soft lines and master cylinder, pushrod, bled all 4 brakes really good with new brake fluid to solve issue with front brakes locking up. Now when I press the brake pedal it doesn't return, I have to pull it back up with my foot. There doesn't appear to be a way to adjust the pushrod and I didn't see any springs anywhere. What am I missing?
I did a complete cooling system flush (block, radiator, heater core) forwards and backwards. I discovered previous owner was running without a thermostat. I put fresh coolant and new thermostat in but now it runs hot. Guess that's why they ran without thermostat?
On the plus side I found all the components and fabricated a spacer for the column shifter guts and she shifts like she's new. If I can get these two things figured out it can start to be fun. Thanks in advance for any guidance!
I did a complete cooling system flush (block, radiator, heater core) forwards and backwards. I discovered previous owner was running without a thermostat. I put fresh coolant and new thermostat in but now it runs hot. Guess that's why they ran without thermostat?
On the plus side I found all the components and fabricated a spacer for the column shifter guts and she shifts like she's new. If I can get these two things figured out it can start to be fun. Thanks in advance for any guidance!
Lead Driver
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If close, you've got an indication problem. If the other gauges seem accurate, I'd be willing to gamble your hard-earned money on a new temperature sender. Where's Dave? He'll tell you to go with an aftermarket gauge, but as I'm hoping I can head him off at the pass. I'm the founder of SGADL (Stock Gauge Anti-Defamation League) and have had excellent results with the factory gauges.
If the thermostat housing is significantly warmer than it should be, I'd remove the thermostat and test it in a pot of water on the stove. It should be fully open at the rated temperature. Luckily, you've got a spiffy new thermometer to measure the water temperature.
I've had several thermostats bad right out of the box. Doesn't matter what brand, vehicle, etc. It's got bad enough I will no longer install a new one without testing it first. If yours tests bad, be sure to check the next one before installation.
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From: Kannapolis, NC
Beg, borrow, or steal an infrared thermometer. No whining, a $20 el cheapo model will work just fine. Point said thermometer at the thermostat housing and see if the actual temperature reading is close to the thermostat rating.
If close, you've got an indication problem. If the other gauges seem accurate, I'd be willing to gamble your hard-earned money on a new temperature sender. Where's Dave? He'll tell you to go with an aftermarket gauge, but as I'm hoping I can head him off at the pass. I'm the founder of SGADL (Stock Gauge Anti-Defamation League) and have had excellent results with the factory gauges.
If the thermostat housing is significantly warmer than it should be, I'd remove the thermostat and test it in a pot of water on the stove. It should be fully open at the rated temperature. Luckily, you've got a spiffy new thermometer to measure the water temperature.
I've had several thermostats bad right out of the box. Doesn't matter what brand, vehicle, etc. It's got bad enough I will no longer install a new one without testing it first. If yours tests bad, be sure to check the next one before installation.
If close, you've got an indication problem. If the other gauges seem accurate, I'd be willing to gamble your hard-earned money on a new temperature sender. Where's Dave? He'll tell you to go with an aftermarket gauge, but as I'm hoping I can head him off at the pass. I'm the founder of SGADL (Stock Gauge Anti-Defamation League) and have had excellent results with the factory gauges.
If the thermostat housing is significantly warmer than it should be, I'd remove the thermostat and test it in a pot of water on the stove. It should be fully open at the rated temperature. Luckily, you've got a spiffy new thermometer to measure the water temperature.
I've had several thermostats bad right out of the box. Doesn't matter what brand, vehicle, etc. It's got bad enough I will no longer install a new one without testing it first. If yours tests bad, be sure to check the next one before installation.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Lowery, What motor are we working on here?
I would think the block would run a little hotter than the stat as that is where the heat is made but could be wrong?
Did you install the stat right? Copper to the engine side?
When up to temp run your hand across the front of the radiator and feel if to is hot across the whole thing and not just in a few different places.
That would point to a plugged radiator.
How far away is the fan from the radiator and do have a shroud & AC?
If you turn on the heater full blast does the temp come down any?
On the brakes it sounds like the master is bad as that is what pushes the pedal back up.
Then again how far does the pedal travel from up to full on brakes?
Are the rear brake drums adjusted right?
Dave ----
I would think the block would run a little hotter than the stat as that is where the heat is made but could be wrong?
Did you install the stat right? Copper to the engine side?
When up to temp run your hand across the front of the radiator and feel if to is hot across the whole thing and not just in a few different places.
That would point to a plugged radiator.
How far away is the fan from the radiator and do have a shroud & AC?
If you turn on the heater full blast does the temp come down any?
On the brakes it sounds like the master is bad as that is what pushes the pedal back up.
Then again how far does the pedal travel from up to full on brakes?
Are the rear brake drums adjusted right?
Dave ----
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Joined: Nov 2019
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From: Kannapolis, NC
Lowery, What motor are we working on here?
I would think the block would run a little hotter than the stat as that is where the heat is made but could be wrong?
Did you install the stat right? Copper to the engine side?
When up to temp run your hand across the front of the radiator and feel if to is hot across the whole thing and not just in a few different places.
That would point to a plugged radiator.
How far away is the fan from the radiator and do have a shroud & AC?
If you turn on the heater full blast does the temp come down any?
On the brakes it sounds like the master is bad as that is what pushes the pedal back up.
Then again how far does the pedal travel from up to full on brakes?
Are the rear brake drums adjusted right?
Dave ----
I would think the block would run a little hotter than the stat as that is where the heat is made but could be wrong?
Did you install the stat right? Copper to the engine side?
When up to temp run your hand across the front of the radiator and feel if to is hot across the whole thing and not just in a few different places.
That would point to a plugged radiator.
How far away is the fan from the radiator and do have a shroud & AC?
If you turn on the heater full blast does the temp come down any?
On the brakes it sounds like the master is bad as that is what pushes the pedal back up.
Then again how far does the pedal travel from up to full on brakes?
Are the rear brake drums adjusted right?
Dave ----
I did however solve the brake issue. After checking the bake brake adjustments and scratching my head I pulled the new push rod out to compare it to the old one, they are almost identical with the exception of the old one has about a 15degree bend where it connects to the brake pedal, I installed the old and and brake pedal returns like it should, I only had time to move it up and down the drive a couple times. Now I have to find a new retaining clip that holds it in the MC. Hopefully the wife doesn't have anything planned this evening and I can fix the overheating issue with the awesome advice I've received. Clogged radiator is very possible, when I flushed it the coolant looked like someone filled it from the yadkin river with a muddy boot.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 331
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It's an inline 6, 4.9L 300. There is not a shroud, the truck does not have AC. I have not tried turning the heat on as I just went around the block. Thermostat is installed right. I have not had a chance to test the thermostat or feel the radiator yet.
I did however solve the brake issue. After checking the bake brake adjustments and scratching my head I pulled the new push rod out to compare it to the old one, they are almost identical with the exception of the old one has about a 15degree bend where it connects to the brake pedal, I installed the old and and brake pedal returns like it should, I only had time to move it up and down the drive a couple times. Now I have to find a new retaining clip that holds it in the MC. Hopefully the wife doesn't have anything planned this evening and I can fix the overheating issue with the awesome advice I've received. Clogged radiator is very possible, when I flushed it the coolant looked like someone filled it from the yadkin river with a muddy boot.
I did however solve the brake issue. After checking the bake brake adjustments and scratching my head I pulled the new push rod out to compare it to the old one, they are almost identical with the exception of the old one has about a 15degree bend where it connects to the brake pedal, I installed the old and and brake pedal returns like it should, I only had time to move it up and down the drive a couple times. Now I have to find a new retaining clip that holds it in the MC. Hopefully the wife doesn't have anything planned this evening and I can fix the overheating issue with the awesome advice I've received. Clogged radiator is very possible, when I flushed it the coolant looked like someone filled it from the yadkin river with a muddy boot.
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From: Kannapolis, NC
So I was able to get a temp gun and get some readings off the engine:
Stat Housing-230
Upper hose-200
Lower Hose-92
Radiator-95-105 from 5 different places on fan side
Spark Plugs-300
Valve Cover-230
Heads-450
Pretty sure the thermostat is not working but I will pull it out tomorrow and test it in boiling water. When I turned the ignition off the engine tried to keep running (what I always heard called dieseling) fairly sure that's due to extreme temps on plugs and head? I really appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge, I really wish my grandpaw was still around, he was really skilled at fixing any car/truck pre-computers.
On a side note, this is the first temp gun I've ever had and it's alot of fun to play with....
Stat Housing-230
Upper hose-200
Lower Hose-92
Radiator-95-105 from 5 different places on fan side
Spark Plugs-300
Valve Cover-230
Heads-450
Pretty sure the thermostat is not working but I will pull it out tomorrow and test it in boiling water. When I turned the ignition off the engine tried to keep running (what I always heard called dieseling) fairly sure that's due to extreme temps on plugs and head? I really appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge, I really wish my grandpaw was still around, he was really skilled at fixing any car/truck pre-computers.
On a side note, this is the first temp gun I've ever had and it's alot of fun to play with....
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From: Virginia
Why do you think it's overheating? I don't see anything unusual in those temp readings. Run-on or dieseling is usually caused by the idle speed being too high. If it was overheating you should have other signs also. And yes I hate the factory gauges. A lot of time and money has been wasted through the years relying on what the factory gauge says.
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What temperature is your present thermostat? If 180 or even 192 (common values), your readings seem high at the thermostat housing and upper hose. I'll usually see the thermostat housing very close to the thermostat rating, usually just a little lower. At the radiator inlet, it's usually about 5 or 10 degrees cooler out there. Your numbers make me think your thermostat is holding the temperature somewhere around 210, maybe even 220.
I'd suggest testing your present thermostat in a pot of hot water, as you were planning. Don't just plunk it in boiling water and see if the thermostat opens. That's 212F, far too hot for the initial test of a 180 or 192 thermostat. Measure the water temperature as you heat it up. The thermostat should start to open plus/minus 3 degrees of the rating, and fully open by 15-20 degrees above that.
Straight from the horse's mouth at Stant
As I have no fear of repeating myself, make sure you also test the new one before installation. For best results, test the new and existing ones side by side.
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From: Kannapolis, NC
Why do you think it's overheating? I don't see anything unusual in those temp readings. Run-on or dieseling is usually caused by the idle speed being too high. If it was overheating you should have other signs also. And yes I hate the factory gauges. A lot of time and money has been wasted through the years relying on what the factory gauge says.
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From: Virginia
Do the sixes have a heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold? His couldn't be stuck shut could it? (if he has one). That would make it get too hot under the carb and make it run rough. On the smoke coming out of the valve cover, is your PCV valve hooked up and has good suction?
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From: Angier, NC
Do the sixes have a heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold? His couldn't be stuck shut could it? (if he has one). That would make it get too hot under the carb and make it run rough. On the smoke coming out of the valve cover, is your PCV valve hooked up and has good suction?
The normal stat should be a 195*
Being the truck dose not have AC it would not have a shroud.
Dave ----
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From: Kannapolis, NC
Do the sixes have a heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold? His couldn't be stuck shut could it? (if he has one). That would make it get too hot under the carb and make it run rough. On the smoke coming out of the valve cover, is your PCV valve hooked up and has good suction?
Does the heat riser valve connect under the carb or is it where the exhaust hooks into the manifold?
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From: Angier, NC
Looks like you have a little bit of a vacuum line mess
What year are we playing with, maybe add it in a sig at the bottom like mine done thru personal info page, and do you need to pass a smog test?
If you don't need to pass smog most of the lines can be removed and we can walk you thru that, its like 3 or 4 lines.
Dave ----
edit: I see in your first post it is a 81 so just need to know if you need to pass smog.
What year are we playing with, maybe add it in a sig at the bottom like mine done thru personal info page, and do you need to pass a smog test?
If you don't need to pass smog most of the lines can be removed and we can walk you thru that, its like 3 or 4 lines.
Dave ----
edit: I see in your first post it is a 81 so just need to know if you need to pass smog.
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From: Kannapolis, NC
Looks like you have a little bit of a vacuum line mess
What year are we playing with, maybe add it in a sig at the bottom like mine done thru personal info page, and do you need to pass a smog test?
If you don't need to pass smog most of the lines can be removed and we can walk you thru that, its like 3 or 4 lines.
Dave ----
What year are we playing with, maybe add it in a sig at the bottom like mine done thru personal info page, and do you need to pass a smog test?
If you don't need to pass smog most of the lines can be removed and we can walk you thru that, its like 3 or 4 lines.
Dave ----
You guys are awesome!