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My passenger front tire chewed up the abs sensor and threw all sorts of ABS codes (C1155, C1096, B1676, C1184, C1230, C1145). I checked the battery voltage so I know that’s not an issue. Will that trauma to the abs wire cause all of those codes?
My other question is whether there’s a notable difference between the Motorcraft and aftermarket brands (Dorman for example)? Should I spend a little more for Motorcraft parts or are the cheaper aftermarket parts as reliable?
My passenger front tire chewed up the abs sensor and threw all sorts of ABS codes (C1155, C1096, B1676, C1184, C1230, C1145). I checked the battery voltage so I know that’s not an issue. Will that trauma to the abs wire cause all of those codes?
My other question is whether there’s a notable difference between the Motorcraft and aftermarket brands (Dorman for example)? Should I spend a little more for Motorcraft parts or are the cheaper aftermarket parts as reliable?
Thanks!
Always buy Motorcraft OEM if possible! Dorman should be your last choice, unless no one else makes the part. If you ripped up your ABS sensor and wires, and did not have these codes before, then that is the cause. How can a tire tear into your sensor anyway?
Always buy Motorcraft OEM if possible! Dorman should be your last choice, unless no one else makes the part. If you ripped up your ABS sensor and wires, and did not have these codes before, then that is the cause. How can a tire tear into your sensor anyway?
thanks! I kinda figured. As far as the abs getting shredded, I put new stainless brake lines in which are a bit longer than stock. The abs line was zip tied to the brake line which was too close to the tires...😬
That is crazy. I checked mine and so far no rubbing. I just replaced the entire brake system, but used standard length replacements, but I can see how it could ground up under the right conditions. I am going to do a zip tie jobber to hold them back a bit more.
I did a front spring swap on my F250 shortly after I had a front brake job completed. The technician pulled the brake line towards the wheel which allowed the ABS and brake line to rub since I had 05+ wheels.
I ended up purchasing a Timken uni-bearing as it was the most cost effective. Ordering a Motorcraft sensor was about the same price as the combo. YMMV
I was planning to tear down the wheels and replace them anyway. So I did the whole job Thursday with my son.
I’m using hawk pads and ebc rotors this time around. Braking is superb, no squishy pedal, but as soon as the ABS kicks in it was jerking to the right. That’s the side I rubbed through. Anyway, I got a Foxwell code scanner that will do the ABS bleeding and it seemed to be better, but I’ll try the gravel next. It’s just not as tight as it should be.
I reached the threshold of my ability to deal with the ABS so I took it to a local shop that fixed my issue so I thought I'd share because it seems like I could have fixed it myself.
The shop ran the FORD IDS tool and pulled an ABS code that my FOXWELL did not see. I'm not sure what the code was other than it indicated a bad left sensor. The mechanic knew that I had just replaced all the ABS sensors, so what they ended up doing was swapping the right and left sensors. They expected if the code now showed bad right sensor, the sensor really is bad, but after swapping sensors, everything functioned normally.
So, I guess the moral of the story is, when all else fails, swap the sensors... I hope I never have this issue again, but I'm glad to be done with it.
