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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

warning lights / speedometer

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Old Oct 24, 2003 | 12:21 PM
  #16  
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hawaiian_baby
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From: Kona, HI
thanks rock.. i figured i should do that, but i didn't want to do it and the light comes back on..
 
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Old Oct 24, 2003 | 03:23 PM
  #17  
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I have this exact problem, except I broke mine spraying the interior out with water. I may have just been a weird cowicdence that it broke at the same time, but I don't see how I could have broke something on the rear diff spraying water in the front. Is there anything in the front of the truck I may have broke to cause these exact same symptoms. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2003 | 05:42 PM
  #18  
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Thanks for the info everyone. I had the exact same symptoms and replacing the sensor did the trick. I can't believe a $28 part fixed it!
 
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Old Apr 19, 2004 | 06:17 PM
  #19  
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Question Speed Sensor?

I know this is an old thread, but I hope that someone can help me out regarding this "Speed Sensor". I have a 2000 Mazda B3000 Manual and it sounds like the anti-lock brake sensor is the problem, although I don't have an ABS light coming on. I went to Rockauto site to find the $7.71 part figuring this might fix the problem and all I could find was a $75.79 ABS Speed sensor. I found it in the 2000 Ranger section... Is this the right part? Could it have gone up that much since like Oct. 03? Any help would be appreciated... THANKS!!
 
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Old Apr 19, 2004 | 07:12 PM
  #20  
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From: South Jersey
Welcome to FTE!!!

Sounds like you might have found the sensor for the front wheels, have you tried your local Ford dealer, sometimes the prices aren't that bad.

What problems are you having?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 06:51 AM
  #21  
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Your Probably right!!

Well, first off, the brake pedal pulsates occassionally accompanied by a clicking sound (like a card in spokes) under the hood, left side, probably the ABS Accumulator Valve ( A shop told me that). But on top of that, my wife experienced a fluctuation in the speedo when this first started yesterday. Also, and this might be unrelated, but at the same time all this happened the check engine light came on. When I brought the truck to autozone they read a "P0176" code which is Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction, Meinike also confirmed this code. So I figured I would start with the least expensive part and go from there... What do you think? I'm not sure if this sounds like I know what I'm talking about, but I really don't. I searched all over this board and read this stuff... I do have an extended warranty through the bank, so if all else fails, It is all covered...
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 08:26 AM
  #22  
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From: Randolph, NJ
Originally Posted by Hammy211
I have this exact problem, except I broke mine spraying the interior out with water. I may have just been a weird cowicdence that it broke at the same time, but I don't see how I could have broke something on the rear diff spraying water in the front. Is there anything in the front of the truck I may have broke to cause these exact same symptoms. Thanks.
Hammy,

Maybe you oversprayed the wires that go to the computer from the VSS?

-Jim
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 08:56 AM
  #23  
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Rockledge
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From: Connecticut
VSS - ABS Speed Sensor - Bad Electrical Connections

Originally Posted by PSKSAM2
Hammy,

Maybe you oversprayed the wires that go to the computer from the VSS?

-Jim
That's probably what happened Jim, at least in my opinion. When Hammy was spraying down the floor inside the cab of his truck, he probably got some things wet underneath that don't react well to moisture.

I didn't know this until recently, but there is an important electrical connector under the driver's seat that carries the VSS (or "ABS Speed Sensor") signal, among other things. Moisture and corrosion can cause the wire connections to breakdown and/or short out.

In fact, there is even a TSB on it for the '00-'01 Ranger, although I would argue that the TSB should be revised /updated and made applicable to all years that have a similar connector in that location (including our '98s).

The TSB might even apply directly to r1gger1's situation. Check it out:

Article No. 01-5-2

FORD: 2000-2001 RANGER

ISSUE:
Some vehicles may exhibit a rough idle, Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) warning lamp illumination, inoperative or erratic speedometer, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0500, P0501, P0503, P1721, P0176, P1000, ABS DTC 9, RABS DTC 16, or a delayed or harsh shifting automatic transmission. This may be caused by water intrusion at connector C309 (2000 model year) or C340 (2001 model year) under the driver's seat.

ACTION:
Inspect affected connectors; clean or replace connector pins as necessary. Install new sleeve and boot assembly over -14401- connector (interior). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Verify water intrusion in connector C309 for 2000 model year or C340 for 2001 model year applications by removing bottom half (male) connector located on -14405- wire harness assembly under driver's seat, outside, beneath vehicle's cab. If water is present or pins are damaged, remove connector sleeve and perform the following:

INSIDE CAB
Remove driver's seat
Remove driver's door scuff plate
Peel carpet or vinyl lining back to gain access to top portion of connector C309F (for 2000 model year) or C340F (for 2001 model year)
F = Female Side Of Connector
Remove connector from floor pan by depressing locking tabs on side of connector
Remove cap from back of connector to gain access to the pins
Remove red locking wedge from face of connector
Remove each pin individually and clean accordingly
NOTE: IF PINS ARE DAMAGED BEYOND THE ABILITY TO CLEAN, OBTAIN NEW PINS FOR REPAIR. ALL PINS WILL REQUIRE SOLDERING TO WIRE FOR MORE ROBUST CONNECTION. REFERENCE APPROPRIATE PINS:

F67Z-14487-AA replacing silver finish pins (1.6mm) and/or E6DZ-14487-AA replacing gold/brass finish pins (1.6mm) and/or F6DZ-14487-BA replacing gold/brass finish pins (2.8mm).

When all pins are cleaned or replaced, install new Cap (1L5Z-14A541-AA) over existing connector 14A464
Insert all pins through new Rubber Boot (1L5Z-14A099-AA)
Install pins into existing connector (refer to the appropriate Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) for correct pin positions)
Install existing red locking wedge and seat rubber boot to new cap
Insert connector into sheet metal (floor pan area)
OUTSIDE CAB UNDERNEATH VEHICLE/DRIVER'S SIDE
Remove cap from back of connector C309M (2000 model year) or C340M (2001 model year)
M = Male Side Of Connector
Remove white locking wedge from face of connector
Remove each pin individually, clean accordingly, and re-insert into correct cavity of lower connector 14A624 (refer to EVTM for correct pin position)
NOTE: IF PINS ARE DAMAGED BEYOND THE ABILITY TO CLEAN, OBTAIN NEW PINS FOR REPAIR. ALL PINS WILL REQUIRE SOLDERING TO WIRE FOR MORE ROBUST CONNECTION. REFERENCE APPROPRIATE PINS:


E7EB-14461-BA replacing silver finish pins (1.6mm) and/or F6TZ-14461-AA replacing gold/brass finish pins (1.6mm) and/or F6DZ-14461-CA replacing silver finish pins (2.8mm) and/or E5DZ-14461-A replacing silver finish (1.6mm Circuits 52 and 64)

Install existing white locking wedge and reseat existing cap to back of connector C309M (2000 model year) or C340M (2001 model year)
Apply dielectric grease sparingly to all pins
Slide sleeve over upper connector and lock-in place
Slide lower connector over sleeve and secure with bolt in connector - torque bolt to 4.8 ±0.8 N-m (42.5 ±7 lb-in)
After connector has been reinstalled, verify concern has been eliminated. Reinstall carpet or vinyl lining, door scuff plate, and driver's seat.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 01:22 PM
  #24  
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r1gger1
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It's sounds like that could very well be my problem, but I don't recall getting the interior of the vehicle wet. I'm at work now so I haven't been able to go out and see what you all are talking about, but do you think the moisture come from underneath the truck and cause the same problem?
 
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