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Old Jun 3, 2020 | 06:55 AM
  #91  
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it never occurred to me since ive acquired my shop press or balljoint press to use for ujoints, set in my ways i guess.

Yall aint right
 
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Old Jun 3, 2020 | 08:05 AM
  #92  
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Thanks for the laugh this morning. I needed it, as I feel like I got ran over by my truck after the battle yesterday.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 12:02 PM
  #93  
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I have a spare ABS sensor hole grease zerk if you want it - PM me your address and I'll drop it in the mail. I had purchased two of these from Riffraff for my 2000 F350 that did not have front ABS - was going to install these permanently. Now that I have the 2001 with front ABS, I only need one of these to temporarily mount when I need to grease the unit bearings.

This is the thrust washer kit you need: https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/axle-...-04-front-4wd/

 
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 12:12 PM
  #94  
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From SuperdutyPSD.com's great how-to ball joint R&R article: https://www.superdutypsd.com/ball_joint_article.php



 
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 12:44 PM
  #95  
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Got parts on the way. Thrust washers, ball joints, axle seals, u-joints for both sides. Thanks though. Is the abs hole the same as the vac hole I am planning to put zirks in as well?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 02:03 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by rjdj1186
Got parts on the way. Thrust washers, ball joints, axle seals, u-joints for both sides. Thanks though. Is the abs hole the same as the vac hole I am planning to put zirks in as well?
No, it is not. The vacuum hole goes to the cavity at the back of the unit bearing. The ABS hole goes to the cavity in between the taper bearings that make up the unit bearing.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 04:55 PM
  #97  
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I mean is it the same thread size? Sorry, I should have been more clear.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 05:40 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by rjdj1186
I mean is it the same thread size? Sorry, I should have been more clear.
Oh. No, they're not. The vacuum hole is one of the NPT sizes, I forget which at the moment. The ABS through-hole is an unthreaded hole with an M4 (I think) blind hole next to it for the bolt that holds the sensor in place.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 11:38 AM
  #99  
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The first side took me 2 days, the second took 2 hours. It's amazing how much easier it is when everything isn't a big lump of rust. Experience played a small part, as did having the right tools on hand. But this side basically fell apart.
The first side had a big metal washer instead of the 3 thrust washers, second side had no washers at all.


Ready for my parts to arrive any day now.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 11:49 AM
  #100  
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Good work man!!
 
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 01:10 PM
  #101  
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Geterdun!!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2020 | 09:27 PM
  #102  
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Yay! Parts are here! Fun restarting tomorrow.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2020 | 09:33 PM
  #103  
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Lots of pictures and deep breaths!

We are all following along and will be here for advice when you need it!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2020 | 10:37 PM
  #104  
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Appreciate it. Going to get the ball joint press in the morning and start there. Nice weather and plenty of time so no need to hurry.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2020 | 06:26 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
I prefer to fram on the knuckle, but smacking the ‘C’ at these spots will usually release the ball joints.



.
This is good advice. My dad taught me this method years ago..

I was 24 when I bought my f350 (10 years ago) and this was my first job on it.. I remember being panicked but I look back and laugh at the memory now..

Keep after it!
 
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