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Long way from homecheapo! Local true value had the hvac ones, I bought 6.
I went to Oriellys and asked about the hub/axle seals. They called them axle shaft seals, and said there are inner and outer. Do I need both?
rjdj,
Go to post #13 by Brian Hanks and open the how to link he posted. I would suggest slowly reading through it. Toward the end are pics of the axle dust seal and hub seal. The ring you see floating is whats left of your old dust seal. Very common on these trucks.
This is very doable for a driveway mechanic but your going to want to have all your parts and tools ready when you start.
Again, I disagree that running THIS truck with the hubs locked is ‘ok’. If the hub axle seal is bad enough, locking the hubs causes more damage at this point. You’re way better off securing the axles so they aren’t binding up and turning.
Yes, we’d have to mail my seal tool back and forth. The last time I did that I think it was about $18 each way?
If you’re reading this and have never checked your knuckle seals like I described above - put this on your agenda. It gets WAAAAY more expensive to fix if you wait until they tell you!!
The minimum parts are the axle shaft dust seals (at the end of the axle tubes) and the knuckle seals. The maximum can include that plus stub shafts (and u-joints) axle bearings, inner axle seals (at differential), thrust washers, locking hubs, etc.
It sounds like you guys are on the right track but no one has mentioned the Torrington bearing in the hub, if that dries out I think it will scream with the hub unlocked won't it?
Yeah, I"d like to do whatever might need doing while it's apart. I am not one of those guys who works on trucks for the fun of it, and hope to never take it apart again in my lifetime. So I am open to suggestions.
I got some hvac zipties and will do that before I drive it again.
SSJ, I take it then that I do not need to do the inner axle seal, just the outer and the dust seal? I wasn't sure when the oriellys lady was asking, so didn't buy anything yet. I am more than happy to cover shipping for the tool, and appreciate your offer and your trust. I plan to work on it next week after my trailer inspection when I have all the time I need to tear it apart. I plan to do both sides, and probably ball joints while I am at it.
Torrington bearing?
Sous, maybe that info you offered would be good to study a bit beforehand. Can you post it or do you need my email?
I will get it uploaded for you tomorrow, or I will call on my friend Leonard to see if he can upload it. He is much better at finding what he is looking for in the manual than I am. I will give it a shot though...
It sounds like you guys are on the right track but no one has mentioned the Torrington bearing in the hub, if that dries out I think it will scream with the hub unlocked won't it?
Maybe?? My guess is if that was ‘screaming’, damage has been done.
Yeah, I"d like to do whatever might need doing while it's apart. I am not one of those guys who works on trucks for the fun of it, and hope to never take it apart again in my lifetime. So I am open to suggestions.
I got some hvac zipties and will do that before I drive it again.
SSJ, I take it then that I do not need to do the inner axle seal, just the outer and the dust seal? I wasn't sure when the oriellys lady was asking, so didn't buy anything yet. I am more than happy to cover shipping for the tool, and appreciate your offer and your trust. I plan to work on it next week after my trailer inspection when I have all the time I need to tear it apart. I plan to do both sides, and probably ball joints while I am at it.
The inner axle seals keep the fluid in the differential. When they fail, you’ll see oil leaking out of the axle tubes.
You do not want the oriellys parts unless they can get you Spicer stuff.
I’ve only used XRF Ball joints for the last few years. Moog sucks and the parts store brand stuff is even worse.
@rjdj1186 , I have attached 2 documents which I believe encompass all of the work you are looking at. I would ask that anyone else familiar with the job look at them and see if I have missed a section from the FSM procedure.
@rjdj1186 ,Once you get fresh parts (fridge parts for @Brian Hanks benefit) in there, you may want to replace the vacuum nipples in the knuckles with grease nipples so you can grease the back of the unit bearing. This will help seal moisture out of the cavity.
@rjdj1186 ,Once you get fresh parts (fridge parts for @Brian Hanks benefit) in there, you may want to replaced the vacuum nipples in the knuckles with grease nipples so you can grease the back of the unit bearing. This will help seal moisture out of the cavity.
...........🤫🤣
On a side note. I have the fitting to insert in the abs hole to do intermittently. Will the grease fitting mentioned above grease the same area? I’m unfamiliar with Exactly how the internals communicate... If so that would be nice not to have to disconnect the abs.
On a side note. I have the fitting to insert in the abs hole to do intermittently. Will the grease fitting mentioned above grease the same area? I’m unfamiliar with Exactly how the internals communicate... If so that would be nice not to have to disconnect the abs.
Nope. The one that goes into the ABS sensor hole puts grease in between the two taper bearings that make up the unit bearing assembly.
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