I am in need of help. I have been fighting this all morning. I replaced the compressor, accumulator, condenser, orifice tube and expansion valve. Before installing I flushed out both evaporators and all the lines. Buttoned up the system blew air through each line and component for 1 hour each, pressurized to 80psi and it held for 30 minutes. So I pulled a vacuum and it took me three times to have enough vacuum to pull in the remaining 9.5oz of PAG 46 which I thought was odd.I then pulled a vacuum for 3 hours. The gauge set that I rented shows positive psi when static so I hooked that gauge set up solo and the most it would pull is 26.5 in after 30 minutes. So after 3 hours on the ac system that is what it read so I hooked up the first can of R134a and it felt like the can was not getting any lighter. After about 5 minutes of trying the gauge was cycling between 40 and 70psi with compressor cycles and the high pressure was cycling between 80-120psi. What is going on? Orifice tube is installed white tip first. I thought I had this thing whipped and then this. It will not take refrigerant and even with the very small amount of refrigerant the low side is high.

Thank you so much for your help.

Eric

 

Well,,,,, The adding of the PAG oil when new components are replaced is to be done to each new component individually prior to installation, because each component holds a small amount of the total oil charge. Adding the oil VIA either of the gauge ports is probably not going to cut it. You'll end up with either the condenser and or the accumulator being over saturated with oil, this shouldn't prevent charging, but an eventual compressor lock up. Adding freon by the can will take a while as teh system will short cycle till the suction pressure remains high enough during operation to keep the suction pressure switch engaged.

 

I recently replaced my whole system as well. I replaced both evaporators too, though. I added oil to each component as I went following the recommendations in the manual above. My system sucked the freon up like a hungry monster. I pulled vacuum down to 28 for 1 hr, then let it sit for 30 mins while checking for leaks. I did not pressurize. I did have to add 10 oz BEYOND the 68 oz the book says the system holds to keep the clutch from short cycling. It does not cycle at all now, and holds steady right in the range it is supposed to for the ambient temps at the time. I suspect the after-market condenser I bought has a larger volume than the original did...

A/C system freezes me right out of the truck now. I literally have to turn it off and on periodically, or my cheeks turn red and I get frost on my nose.

 

Mike, this is the OE updated Freon charge decal included in the box when I purchased my replacement condenser form Ford.

 

Thank you everyone for the responses. I must admit I never new oil was to be placed in each component. I figured the compressor was to be the only component with oil placed in it. Live and learn I guess. So here is where I sit. I pulled a vacuum on Sunday evening and then closed all the valves and let it set overnight. I came out the next morning and the gauge had not moved. So I fired up the vacuum pump again and let it run an additional 2 hours. I hooked up the 1st can of R134a and had the same issue as before but this time I was more persistent and gave it some time. It took a while but then the pressure finally dropped and it pulled in the can. My thoughts were that since I put all the oil in the low pressure port the accumulator was full and it took some time for this oil to get pushed out which caused high pressure until that happened.

Here is the next issue I ran into. My wife was holding it at 1500rpm and I only able to get 48oz in. The low pressure was reading 40psi and the high pressure was reading 200psi. I went and got a thermometer to check the output temp and after all this the high pressure had climbed to 325psi. The thermometer only read 51°. I buttoned up the Ex and took it down the highway. After about 2 miles the AC was blowing 41° with an outside temp of 80° at 55mph. I ran out of time and never got to hook the gauges back up.

Another note is when my condenser finally showed up it appears is half as thick as the one I took out. I debated for some time on what to do but since I already had everything else installed and flushed I did not want to put the old one back in. So I proceeded.

My questions are, do you think the smaller condenser is the reason for the lower quantity of R134a? Is it also the reason for the high pressures? Could improper loading of oil cause a high pressure scenario as I am wondering since the condenser is smaller it would require less oil in the system? Is the new condenser to wrong and to restrictive causing the high pressure? Is the fan clutch fault and that is why the vent temp dropped after traveling on the highway?

So here is my current plan. 1st check the fan speed at various rpms. Does anyone know what the speeds should be or is there a better way to test this?

I plan to put the gauges back up after some more driving in hopes that the oil will have been evenly distributed. Is this a pipe dream or will this actually happen?

Can you pull low and high pressure readings from a scanner while driving?

Thanks
Eric

 

That's alot of oil to be distributed in the short time needed, if the compressor is not getting what it needs. Your high pressures are, well, HIGH. It sounds like you have a restriction in the system, maybe the oil, or the orifice isn't correctly installed. I think that was the difference in the new OE Ford coil I bought over my original 2001 OE coil, thinner, smaller, something like that. The charge decal was included for a reason. I'm guessing you bought aftermarket, and nothing wrong with that if the physical fit is ok, and the quality lasts. But aftermarket you are probably not getting the updated sticker. I would've mentioned above to jump out the low pressure switch so adding freon while idling would greatly help, but knowing you didn't have oil in all the right places, I decided not to say anything.
Pressures are mechanical only, at least on these older vehicles, and therefore are not a monitored part of the PCM. You should be fine with the new replacement condenser coil.

 

So the new sticker is for 51.68oz and I put in 48oz. So that makes me feel better. I will check the pressures this weekend after the oil has a chance to find a home.

Thanks
Eric

 

Okay so now I’m confused.

The updated chart shows 3.23 lbs of R134A

My sticker say 4.25 LBs

Nicmike says he had to add an additional 10oz to his.

Any idea why the capacity was changed?

 

Because the Ford OE replacement condenser holds less volume over the original 2001 one.

 

I used ester oil on my bull for reasons stated above. Don't have exact figure but it was around 10 oz. I would recommend renting the A/C flush kit from vatozone, it is a bottle which you fill with acetone and connector to compressor and blow through system. Front, back, side to side. I distributed my oil evenly except for the lion's share inside the compressor.

Use all new green O-rings throughout the system. I think it might be the red orifice tube you wan't but don't quote me. I would order the high-temp variable orifice tube, I put one in my Dad's F250 and it will freeze you out.

Vac pump is a must and also avail at autozone. I like to pull a vacuum for a few hours and then lit it sit overnight with gauge hooked up. That way I know there are no leaks. I think it was about 3 1/2 cans R134a.