Oil leaks
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New User
Joined: May 2020
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Its not the glow plugs entirely, but they contribute to the problem.
Timing (when combustion takes place) in a diesel is controlled by the fuel injection event. The fuel is injected just before we want the explosion.
When we put a flammable vapor in the intake air, we lose control of timing and the combustion event can occur while the piston(s) are on their way UP. This is akin to hitting the top of the piston with a sledge hammer and BAD things can happen (broken pistons, bent rods, etc).
If your truck is a 99-01, you can watch the oil pressure gauge on the dash. The truck will not start until after it builds pressure (then the HPOP can build pressure).
Sometimes it can take quite a bit of cranking.
Do your SES and WTS lights come on and go off when you turn the key on?
Timing (when combustion takes place) in a diesel is controlled by the fuel injection event. The fuel is injected just before we want the explosion.
When we put a flammable vapor in the intake air, we lose control of timing and the combustion event can occur while the piston(s) are on their way UP. This is akin to hitting the top of the piston with a sledge hammer and BAD things can happen (broken pistons, bent rods, etc).
If your truck is a 99-01, you can watch the oil pressure gauge on the dash. The truck will not start until after it builds pressure (then the HPOP can build pressure).
Sometimes it can take quite a bit of cranking.
Do your SES and WTS lights come on and go off when you turn the key on?
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
What Jason said. Charge the batteries. By the book they should be 10.5 volts or better while cranking for the PCM to allow the injectors to fire.
But mine has started at just 8.5 volts, so who knows.
Also depending how cold it is there (how cold is it?) it will help to plug in the block heater. Find the cord by locating the thick orange wire near the oil filter and following it forward.
But mine has started at just 8.5 volts, so who knows.
Also depending how cold it is there (how cold is it?) it will help to plug in the block heater. Find the cord by locating the thick orange wire near the oil filter and following it forward.
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New User
Joined: May 2020
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What Jason said. Charge the batteries. By the book they should be 10.5 volts or better while cranking for the PCM to allow the injectors to fire.
But mine has started at just 8.5 volts, so who knows.
Also depending how cold it is there (how cold is it?) it will help to plug in the block heater. Find the cord by locating the thick orange wire near the oil filter and following it forward.
But mine has started at just 8.5 volts, so who knows.
Also depending how cold it is there (how cold is it?) it will help to plug in the block heater. Find the cord by locating the thick orange wire near the oil filter and following it forward.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,855
Likes: 2,332
From: WV
Thanks guys. I don't have a battery charger on hand. Gonna borrow one and try it again. It isn't cold here, my truck won't start when it is. I don't have a block heater anymore. Mine got burnt up. Not sure how. While I was under the truck doing the oil change I noticed the cord was dirty and corroded. Went to wipe it off and the cord just broke instantly. Had so much oil underneath the truck that Im guessing it just burnt it up. Plan to fix that somewhere down the line once I get the truck up and running again. Any advice on that??
You shouldn’t need the block heater if living in a warm climate. I rarely use mine (live in WV) but also keep it in the garage and don’t usually drive it in the winter.
I quickly looked in the tech folder https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-7-3l-psd.html but didn’t see anything related to replacing the block heater, only R&R of the entire cooler. I believe the wire itself is replaceable depending on where it broke.
Slightly off topic...your hands are awfully clean for working on a 7.3.
Just kidding!
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
These are the specific parameters that the PCM is looking for before it gives the green light to the IDM to fire the injectors and bring the big block to life (these are all minimums while cranking):
1. Engine RPM - 100
2. Injection Control Pressure (ICP) - 500 psi
3. Injection Pulse Width (PW) - 0.6 ms
4. Volts - 7-10 VDC
There are nuiances between years but these are the four basic things your truck PCM needs to see while cranking before the IDM gets the go ahead to start injecting fuel
Note: The 0.6ms pulse width requirement indicates that the PCM and IDM are talking and not an indication of actual pulse width. If the PW was 0.0ms then the IDM did not answer when the PCM called so it left a voicemail telling the IDM there will be no injection action this round.
1. Engine RPM - 100
2. Injection Control Pressure (ICP) - 500 psi
3. Injection Pulse Width (PW) - 0.6 ms
4. Volts - 7-10 VDC
There are nuiances between years but these are the four basic things your truck PCM needs to see while cranking before the IDM gets the go ahead to start injecting fuel
Note: The 0.6ms pulse width requirement indicates that the PCM and IDM are talking and not an indication of actual pulse width. If the PW was 0.0ms then the IDM did not answer when the PCM called so it left a voicemail telling the IDM there will be no injection action this round.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
Replace the cord then plug it in for a couple hours before attempting to start.
What are the temps wherever you are overnight? Actual numbers please.
What are the temps wherever you are overnight? Actual numbers please.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2020
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At this point I highly suspect your no start condition is due to low batteries and slow cranking speed.
You shouldn’t need the block heater if living in a warm climate. I rarely use mine (live in WV) but also keep it in the garage and don’t usually drive it in the winter.
I quickly looked in the tech folder https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-7-3l-psd.html but didn’t see anything related to replacing the block heater, only R&R of the entire cooler. I believe the wire itself is replaceable depending on where it broke.
Slightly off topic...your hands are awfully clean for working on a 7.3.Just kidding!
You shouldn’t need the block heater if living in a warm climate. I rarely use mine (live in WV) but also keep it in the garage and don’t usually drive it in the winter.
I quickly looked in the tech folder https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-7-3l-psd.html but didn’t see anything related to replacing the block heater, only R&R of the entire cooler. I believe the wire itself is replaceable depending on where it broke.
Slightly off topic...your hands are awfully clean for working on a 7.3.
Just kidding!
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2020
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The part in my hand is the very end of the cord from under the truck and the clamp to hold it in. Mine comes from the oil filter housing under the truck. It broke off right as it goes in, and I just took the clamp out for keeping in case I can reuse. But it is the very tip from under the truck
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2020
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These are the specific parameters that the PCM is looking for before it gives the green light to the IDM to fire the injectors and bring the big block to life (these are all minimums while cranking):
1. Engine RPM - 100
2. Injection Control Pressure (ICP) - 500 psi
3. Injection Pulse Width (PW) - 0.6 ms
4. Volts - 7-10 VDC
There are nuiances between years but these are the four basic things your truck PCM needs to see while cranking before the IDM gets the go ahead to start injecting fuel
Note: The 0.6ms pulse width requirement indicates that the PCM and IDM are talking and not an indication of actual pulse width. If the PW was 0.0ms then the IDM did not answer when the PCM called so it left a voicemail telling the IDM there will be no injection action this round.
1. Engine RPM - 100
2. Injection Control Pressure (ICP) - 500 psi
3. Injection Pulse Width (PW) - 0.6 ms
4. Volts - 7-10 VDC
There are nuiances between years but these are the four basic things your truck PCM needs to see while cranking before the IDM gets the go ahead to start injecting fuel
Note: The 0.6ms pulse width requirement indicates that the PCM and IDM are talking and not an indication of actual pulse width. If the PW was 0.0ms then the IDM did not answer when the PCM called so it left a voicemail telling the IDM there will be no injection action this round.
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New User
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I believe my problem right now is the Ipr, went cheap on that and realizing now that was a big mistake. It does get cold here but as of rite now the temps shouldn't affect it. Summer has hit here and only about a 60 degree or better low here of the evenings now
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Also wanted to add that when Im trying to start the truck, while cranking I noticed it takes a few for the gauge on oil pressure to move...not sure if that's normal or if the gauge should move instantly??
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,855
Likes: 2,332
From: WV
Check out my Denso starter video below. The cold/first start does not show the oil pressure gauge, but the warm/second start does.
How does your gauge compare?https://youtu.be/h3LsuCmaD-4?list=PL...JZEE-Kv1XAzSir
How does your gauge compare?https://youtu.be/h3LsuCmaD-4?list=PL...JZEE-Kv1XAzSir
Diesel_girl, I’m not sure if you’re familiar with them but riffraff Diesel is a good source for parts. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/ipr-i...gulator-96-03/
Unfortunately the IPR isn’t a cheap piece. I consistently hear from folks (here and elsewhere) to only use Ford or International sensors in our trucks.