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I put new door seals, and window seals including, vent window seals in my 73 reg cab truck but the vent windows just don't seam to close all the way and seal well resulting in wind noise. There is some play on the lock arms, but it doesn't seam like a ton. i did add the seat to top of door and the sound seams like its mostly from the vent windows. Is there a trick or something that will help or do i need to replace the whole window and holder? I realize it will never be new car quiet since its shaped like a brick but seems like it could be better
I just seen a thread about the same issue. Take a look at the white plastic tip on the end of the lock arm, is it really worn down? Have you tried to make the window close tighter, by adding a quarter between the lock arm tip and the division bar? Maybe you can get a small rubber vacuum cap and put it over the lock tip?
I had this same problem after replacing mine with a new set from rock auto. I jammed a giant pile of quarters in there and it's now so tight that I'm pretty sure I'm gonna break something. Still not great but slightly better.
My next step is gonna be to pull it apart and get a set from Steele rubber to see if their set is any better.
Careful if you break the plastic tip off the lock arm, I have not seen them for sale by themselves. They are held in by one plastic pin that has to be drilled out if the tip is broke off. The lock arm is held on by a VERY small and difficult to remove roll pin. If you break the mounting stud for the lock arm you have to replace the complete frame. And if you do that, pretty sure their is a difference in the stud, if you have a locking versus none locking arm.
Believe I got the whole set from bronco grave yard I did try shutting them farther by hand but the quarter idea my help keep them closed. I will try that first and check the tip. Thanks
You can always super glue 2 quarters together, or put a piece of sheet metal the same L/W dimensions (but a little thicker) on the division bar. The same L/W as the piece of stainless on it now.
Check you Division bar for irregularities, signs that someone may of broke into your truck in the past. Any irregularities preventing a good rubber to glass seal will produce wind noise. I changed both of my 77 F-150 doors and window rubbers, division bard and wiper seals. Whatever I tried I could get the passenger side vent window to stop the wind noise. After taking a close look at my Division bar, I could see it was bent inward from someone in the past, which look liked they broke in. Was able to source another complete passenger side vent window. Removed the old rubber from the vent window I sourced with the new rubber from the bent vent window and now I don't have anymore wind noise.
If you're interested, I have a new after-market passenger side vent window assembly, complete with glass and rubber. PM if your interested, I'm on the West Coast, so take shipping into account.
Check you Division bar for irregularities, signs that someone may of broke into your truck in the past. Any irregularities preventing a good rubber to glass seal will produce wind noise. I changed both of my 77 F-150 doors and window rubbers, division bard and wiper seals. Whatever I tried I could get the passenger side vent window to stop the wind noise. After taking a close look at my Division bar, I could see it was bent inward from someone in the past, which look liked they broke in. Was able to source another complete passenger side vent window. Removed the old rubber from the vent window I sourced with the new rubber from the bent vent window and now I don't have anymore wind noise.
If you're interested, I have a new after-market passenger side vent window assembly, complete with glass and rubber. PM if your interested, I'm on the West Coast, so take shipping into account.
Thanks I'll check the bar and try the quarters and if I need new I'll let ya know
Tha quarters seem to help alot thanks guys, it helps enough I need to replace my sliding rear window now. Also my door seals are coming off in a couple spots ,maybe I didn't use enough glue. I am thinking I am going upgrade to the 90s style and see if that stay on better.
Same thing I'm considering next time I change my surround door seal rubbers on my 77 F-150, using 92-96 F-Series that has the pinched metal molded inside the rubber.
As requested by the OP. Sorry I can not find the redrill of the SD seat frame pics. Also forgot to mention that I am adding a 1" riser (square tubing) to get a little more height out of it. Riser down 1st, then OEM brackets on top of it. I can get some detailed pics tomorrow.
Some pics from that thread link in the PM.
I got my seat from Craigslist for 25 bucks. SCORE! You can even put in newer ones, but looks to be more work and you are going to have to source power for most seats. The 02/03/04 are almost bolt and go.
05 in a SC. You can see the risers square tubing. 2011 in a SC
80's
95 Eddie Bauer
96
99 SD in a CC
Here you go pics of the nothing fancy riser brackets and the 79 sliders on a 03 SD rear seat. I used the original fwd track hole had to redrill the rear one.
