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Did the front brakes on my 2012 F-350 dually. This is what the driver's side caliper looked like after only 50k miles. I have done numerous brake jobs and have never seen anything like this. How are these inferior parts being put on pick-ups designed to haul (and stop) thousands of pounds?!?!?
Looks like you got your brakes got extremely hot, by the looks of the little bit of rotor I can see it looks like your pads were metal to metal.
Denny
Nope, pads still had life in them; no metal-to-metal. If they ever got hot, they never gave any warning signs. Never heated up enough to smell them, never had brake-fade, etc.
Trailer brakes are dialed in. Backed off just short of locking up.
Talking to a couple tech friends, they say it's common for '08 and up. I don't think something like this should ever be common.
Just look at the dust shields, they are melted from heat and by looking at the pistions they should be shinny were the seal rides, my guess is the slide pins were sticking and the brakes were used under heavy loads. The hydro boost system in the DRW puts a lot of pressure on the brakes and you won't be aware of it, I know this from experience from my 2013 DRW and what I did to my front brakes in 29K because of failing traler brakes. I also cooked my dust shields but I was able to replace them when I did the pads, my slide pins were also sticking. The fractured piston may have been damaged during disassembly, if it was that way when the brakes were in use I would think you would see brake fluid because that one crack surely goes below the piston seal. And buy how far your pistons are extended your pads definitely had a lot of wear.
I get about 60k miles out of front pads, I use Napa HD pads. Having 160k miles on the truck and decent amount of mountain towing i go through pads, but have never had to change rotors and definitely didn't crack my caliper pistons.
Are both pads worn evenly, and even compared to the opposite side of the truck?
Next time you put on new pads if your rotor has a ridge from wear you have to move the pistons back far enough so the pads will clear the ridge. Sometimes the pad will stick to the pistons and if you pry the caliper off to get past the ridge it can break the pistons.
I've run Ford F250 & F350 trucks for years and hundreds of thousands of miles both in my business and personal use run at full GVWR and have never replaced a caliper but I also change my pads at 1/2 to 2/3 wear because I beleave that the thinner the pads get the more heat transfers to the calipers. The only time I ran a set of pads to almost nothing was my 2013 because I didn't realize the hydro boost system would put that much pressure on the pads with so little petal presure. I've always done my own brakes.
I cant recall the exact situation. I was servicing the brakes late at night , the truck was going for a safety in the morning. Caliper wouldn't come off. I believe it was seized. I remember alot of hammering. Truck missed its safety and needed 4 calipers. The wear ridge had nothing to do with it- that time
Looks like they got hot a time or three based on how cooked the dust boots and phenolic are. The metal shield on the face of the lower intact piston was damaged when you pulled the caliper off.
Without knowing anything about the trucks use history and maintenance, it's hard to say if that's "acceptable" or not. It's still a 8 year old truck even though it only has 50k miles, only about 6k/yr, which is really low. If it isn't getting a full undercarriage inspection/maintenance every couple years, or every year if it's actually used like a truck, then yeah, I'd say it's "acceptable". You're accepting the risk of lack of maintenance. I'm guessing it's been either a dedicated tow vehicle or a plow /sanding truck is whole life? Getting used infrequently then parked for periods of time. Either one will be harder on a truck, especially the brakes, and requires a higher level of care.
Only reason I think that was because I just had this conversation with my best friend and I've heard many people talk to the same idea. He doesn't get the fact that the "new" to him 2016 truck, with "only" 75K miles on it, is going to need some repairs and maintenance probably within the first two years. He thinks he should be able to drive it through his financing period without issue, "that's why I paid good money for it" he says. No, you paid what the market dictated, it had almost nothing to do with the reliability of that vehicle. That's why it only came with a 2 year warranty and that was mostly for the power train . Most modern vehicle drivetrains, with modern management systems, can go 100K without blinking, sometimes without so much as an oil change if it's running synthetic, but the suspension and brakes have stayed basically the same for 50 years. No one ever expected a New 80s F series truck to go 50K without some suspension or brake work, why does the fact it's a 2000-whatever change that fact? Parts get hot, parts rust, seals dry out, potholes break things, etc., etc.
I am the original owner and have done all maintenance required since new. Yes, they were original pads that were worn (which is why I was replacing) but still some life in the pad. ~20k of the miles are from towing and the rest are normal driving or hauling dirt bikes/snowmobile around.
You can tell the metal shield was already damaged/cracked prior to removing the caliper by the rust on the piston itself.
I've driven Fords for 25 years and have never seen this before. If you think it's acceptable, that's fine, you are entitled to your opinion. I don't think a pick-up designed to haul should ever have this problem.
BTW, I'm in Colorado where we don't have the same rust/corrosive issues others in the mid-west and back east have.
According to TMT here in at least posts #29 and #30, properly "baking" and curing phenolics is a tricky business.
NOW, if these are OEM calipers one would hope they were constructed properly initially, but if aftermarket or even Motorcraft remans it would seem all bets are off
According to TMT here in at least posts #29 and #30, properly "baking" and curing phenolics is a tricky business.
NOW, if these are OEM calipers one would hope they were constructed properly initially, but if aftermarket or even Motorcraft remans it would seem all bets are off
I went through the caliper goat-rope/ seized piston(s) on my 06 with 88k miles. By the time I was done I had replaced 5 calipers. So yes, I had even replaced a "new" one. This was over about a 4 month period. It finally subsided and they all seem to be good now for over a year. Fortunately, I could feel it right when it happened and I never although 1 got really hot I never scored the rotors.
But yes, it has been an issue with SDs.
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