The fuel pump on my truck went bad and I did this to get it home. Only I put a one gallon can under the hood and tied it in place with an electric fuel pump.
Since you also say this happens when the truck warms up, I would check the coil as well. Check it cold then once it warms up.
https://www.aa1car.com/library/ignition_coils.htm

 

If you have a tee, you could put it in where the fuel filter was. Make sure it is secure because you don't want it coming off and dumping fuel everywhere. If you have enough hose, run it so that you can see it while you drive and watch what happens when you start to have your problems. We used to run the line up and set it on the cowl by the windshield to troubleshoot fuel problems

 

As stated in other posts, I have had experienced a failed coil. Vehicle is fine when cold, as soon as it warms up it goes bad. I also agree that the duraspark can be problematic. I would try a couple of things in this order;
1) install a new set of plugs gapped correctly, should be about .044" or 1.12mm. You may want to replace the cap, rotor and plug wires too.
2) Try the gas can and bypass your gas tank. Run a hose from a gas can to your fuel pump.
3) Get a new coil and try that.
4) Put the old coil back on and replace the dura spark with an Pertronix.

If none of these work, it may be a carburation issue but I really doubt it.

 

2X fe390 on replacing spark plugs. The gap on your fouled ones didn't look right. If the coil is a stock one, set the gap to .035" . If an aftermarket high voltage coil, set at fe390's suggestion of .044.

 

And at the very least, plug the large vacuum port on the front of the carburetor because without a PCV valve it's just a big giant vacuum leak and you will never get your fuel mixtures adjusted properly.
Well, I should never say never, but you see what I mean. It's wrong, and needs to be fixed even if it's not your current problem. Because even if it's not your current problem, it's at least part of it.

Paul

 

Hey,

I am not any further than before.
Checked the Fuelpressure and the fuelsystem.... averything looks ok.

I got a new pertronix ignitior which was planned for my mustang...also a flamethrower 1 1,5 Ohm. Probably ill put this in and remove the blackobox and actual ignitor! After that, I go on.
Can anyone tell me the basic settings for the carb "fuelmix"? These two screws in the front....?

By changing the ignitor and coil, Ill also change the plugs to be sure, Ignition is ok and complete.... if the carb is ok, I dont know what to do next...

 

Replacing the Duraspark with the Petronics is a good thing to do. One thing to check is the voltage to the + side of the coil and if that is the correct voltage for the model Petronics you have.
Most carburetors like you have will end up at 1.5 turns from lightly seated and the best way is with a vacuum gauge by turning the 2 metering screws in or out until the highest vacuum reading is attained, you may even end up with the screws 2-3 turns out to get the best idle. The idle stop screw should only be around 1 turn against the throttle lever after it contacts the lever.

 

And remember, the two idle/air screws do not have to be the same number of turns. It's what works best, and any number of turns listed in the book is just a starting point.
So you could have one turned out 1.25 turns, and the other 1.75 turns from seated. And never turn them in tight. Just gently down until they stop and no more. If you use too much force you will damage/deform the tip.

But none of this will matter until you do something with those HUGE vacuum leaks.
SO AT THE VERY LEAST, PLUG OFF THAT OPEN HOSE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE (RIGHT SIDE) VALVE/ROCKER COVER!
But the better way, the only correct way, is to get a proper valve in the other cover.

You will never get an accurate tune setting with your 3/8" manifold vacuum port simply sucking on the driver's side valve/rocker cover.
The way it is set up now is wrong, has always been wrong, and will never be right in any scenario. You can stop the leak, or you can do it the right way by purchasing a PCV valve and connecting that to the vacuum tube. I don't think I have any images of what I am talking about, but there must be some here somewhere.

Paul

 

So you don't have an Edelbrock but this is the same style. The hose on the passenger side valve cover should be hooked to the air cleaner if there is a spot for it on the base. If not, you should put a breather in there because in theory it's sucking unfiltered air into your crankcase which is not good for your engine, but probably not the source of your problems.

 

Here's how it was stock with the PCV valve in the passenger side cover and the driver's side hooked to the air cleaner, but yours are reversed

 

Ok thanks in advance, I will check all this.

As I am to stupid to install the pertronix, I have to fix this first.
The distributor is not original anymore and I am not sure how to install the black magenet ring because there is nut screw visuell anymore. Ill make picutes next week.
Also I dont know how to disassemble the old stuff in the diestributor because it looks like it is sealed....

I also crashed the solenoid as I was starting over and over again and I think the battery is also not ok.

nce I have done this and renewed the ignition, I will go on.

Question:
With the pertronix, I dont need the blackbox anymore, right? I just wire the distributor directry to the coil and thats it...?
What is the blackbox doing? Why it is needed now?

So stupid problem...

The truck was running perfectly when i bought it. After a while the header became loose... 3mm from one second to the next. (I remounted the screw to but it back). Everything was ok!
After that, I startet the car, had let it run in the sun, it became a litte warm. After running 30min in idle it just turned off and the problem appeared...

 

If you have the Pertronix ignitor that is a drop in replacement for your points, then you should not need anything else. If you have a Pertronix distributor that is ready to run, then you should not need anything else.

 

Nö, I just got the Black round Magnet Ring and the reed contact to install inside the distributor.
I did the same on my 289 mustang, was easy. The same Thing on the distributor of the 390 is Different.

 

I remember now. You have a distributor from the mid 70s. I don't think your drop in Pertronix unit will work with that.

 

Pertronix does make them for most distributors. But they are different for each application, so if yours is not for your specific model distributor that could be why it's not easy to figure out.
Also, you say things look sealed. It's possible that the previous owner installed a different brand of trigger mechanism inside already. If that's the case then that would easily explain why it's not looking normal. Since you've done it before, you would recognize how to do it now. The Ford distributors might be slightly different for your engine than the 289, but they should be recognizable as from the same family.

The reason they don't need any external black box is that the ON/OFF signal they generate is strong enough to trigger the coil by itself. Red wire to power, Black wire to coil negative. Just like the 289.
Some other brands require a separate modulator to interpret/amplify (some are actually called amplifiers) the distributor signal to something the coil can use.

If by "black box" though, you mean the one that goes inside the distributor from Pertronix, then yes you absolutely must have that since that is the signal generator (if that's a proper word here) that works with the black disc/cylinder thingy that slips over the rotor shaft.

Paul