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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 08:06 PM
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FE oil leak question

Doing a rebuild of my 67 F-250 4x4. Pulled the 352 to put a new clutch in and fix an oil leak.

The bellhousing was so grimy, I cannot believe someone had pulled the engine previously and done clutches before and not cleaned the bellhousing, but whatever.

Got the clutch off and It looks like the rear main is weeping a bit, but look at those 3 Allen head bolts on the sides of the cam bore. The bottom one looks like it is leaking. Is it common for them to leak? Can I pull them and put thread sealant on without disturbing anything inside? Other thoughts?

Or is the rear main getting oil on the crank and then it is "whipping" it around and getting on that bottom allen screw? The back of the plate that goes between the flywheel and block was a little oily, but nothing too major. It does not look like the intake is currently leaking.

Appreciate all thoughts. Want to get this together and back in truck. I have read about putting a rear main seal in, and it sounds like it may be more risky (on several fronts, to include worse leaking) that just leaving it alone.






Cannot believe the grim on this!
 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 12:03 AM
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Your big plug is in backwards. If it hasn't caused trouble by now, probably best to leave it. It is said that it will cause trouble if not installed right.

The screw in plugs can just be take out and resealed.

If the oil was whipping off the crank the whole inside of the bell, especially the engine plate and back of the block would be covered in oil.

Not to say that it's NOT the rear main. With as little oil as shows, you must rightfully ask if it's a seal job or a can of worms.

 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 08:17 AM
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Ditto, I'm surprised that backwards cam plug hasn't caused issues(yet). It likely is getting rubbed by the camshaft, or causing the camshaft to rub on the retainer on the front of the engine. Both aren't good.

Looks like the previous owner drilled/threaded the oil galley plugs(typically just press in plugs). Either give them a quick snug, or remove, clean and used a touch of hard tack gasket maker on them and screw them in snug.

Many years back I rebuilt a 390 and did the screw in plugs. I fought a leak for a few years until I pulled the flywheel and then spun the oil pump with drill. One of the tapered plugs was NOT a tapered plug. I removed it, replaced it and never leaked again.
You could removed the distributor and spin the pump and watch for leaks since you still have the oil filter on the engine.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 11:03 AM
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Thanks guys! I am NOT going to tackle the rear main. I think that is at least a can of worms and at worst a can of whoop ***.

Got a plug set from NAPA. Going to pull that cam cover and see what it looks like. Then install the new one the right way with a thin coat of RTV on the edges. Also pull all the allen screw plugs and put a touch of thread sealant on them. That stuff works wonders
 
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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 11:07 PM
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That sounds like the safest choice!
 
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 08:53 AM
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Just asking out of curiosity, but doesn't the plate between the engine and bell housing sit flush in the area of the three threaded plugs? Did they drill holes to clear the plugs..
 
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 02:10 PM
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Yes, I've had to drill holes to clear the pipe plugs before. If you tap it far enough you can get them flush, but if not, no big deal.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 11:20 AM
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While you are cleaning that bell, make sure to clean the mating surfaces between block, plate, and trans. If not clean, can cause alignment issues and ground problems. (Mostly in newer vehicles, the ground part)
 
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by hiball3985
Just asking out of curiosity, but doesn't the plate between the engine and bell housing sit flush in the area of the three threaded plugs? Did they drill holes to clear the plugs..
Yes, they did! See below...



 
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Old Apr 25, 2020 | 07:36 AM
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OK, thank you. I had assumed they had to do something like that to make it work.
 
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