When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
c6 4x4 extension housings (?) are different from 85 and 88. And also different from aod to c6.
the transmission fluid lines are different from e4od/aod/c6. Duh. Didn’t catch it.
Also, the connection to radiator is different because of radiator.
This ‘90 has at bottom. ‘88 has at side on this 7.5L c6 4x4. Which has an added cooler up front but wont fit on the ‘90 rad support. The a/c cond. sticks out too far.
the transfer cases have different connector levers on the 3 56’s i have here.
depending on where the shifter comes up on the floor depends on the extension housing also.
working on down shifting linkage now. Have the cable and the hard metal one.
tjc....its all on the inside dude!-). And you got it man. Grateful you pulled through.
new issue came up tonight on my c6 swap from e4od.
1990 f250 7.3L supercab 4wd....
the c6 driveshafts pulled from an earlier c6 4x4 supercab have a smaller bearing carrier part of u joint than the
1990 factory e4od driveshafts making it significantly less surface area contact at the rear end yoke point.
solutions that have come up so far are:
Find a c6 4x4 supercab driveshaft with the larger carrier bearing. There was this one c6 4x4 supercab driveshaft in all of California. So not impossible but..... other options?
cut the e4od u joint end with correct bearing size and weld up the c6 driveshaft.... a few hundred $’s easy and travel and time and really???.... other options?
the front piece of both the 2 piece driveshafts are where the major difference is being 7” approximately. The rear pieces are close. The e4od being 2” shorter than c6. End of slip yoke to center bearing assembly at rear end. So it seems possible to switch the rear pieces as the slip yokes to trans of the font pieces are the same.
Upon further review it is a noticeable difference in the “necked down” piece of front driveshaft that inserts into slip yoke of rear driveshaft. So, without taking them apart yet, it is assumed the splined ends are also different size.....dont know for sure.
so this option seems out...
any comments or insight is appreciated.
thank you and best regards.
Last edited by Edward Michael; May 6, 2020 at 01:41 AM.
Reason: Update info
2 questions on the vacuum control module or vcm....
I have to take this piece off the IP for the c6 vcm to fit?
Here’s a close up of the pin(?)
can i hook up the vacuum lines directly to the vcm or do i need that special vacuum line piece there at the end where the 2 lines connect and then to the vcm?
looks like that piece on the IP that the e4od electronic module thingamabopper hooked up to and has to come off for the c6 vcm to connect to the IP has 2 Allen head screws......any confirmation before I continue is
NECESSARY as i not gonna gum this little critter up....
Very cool...Thank You!-). The size roll pin is SUPER cool.....lol....hahaHA etc.
so filled up trans with “synthetic” Mobil 1 ATF with 10 quarts.
Let the return line bleed into a 2 litre bottle until almost full. It was bright red like the new stuff.
Shifted the gears somewhere around 6 quarts.
Fluid is way high, so figuring we have to drive around and warm up to check it warm or hot as the dipstick said....the dipstick in the truck...not the one reading it!-)
will pick up an aftermarket fuse connector (5amp) for the aftermarket fuel pump that was rigged into the fuse box and connect to drivers side battery.. truck stalls when stepping on the fuel pedal...so cannot drive until pump is connected.
the trans is turning in 2H and 4H. Have to hook up the rear driveline. Front is in and didnt have hubs locked.
hooking up the vcm looks like a piece of cake per the tube vid.
Itsa 3/32 or 5/64 Allen head and they’re in there. Lil kroil...magnet to catch em. Ahhh.
more kroil as that lil plastic piece is on there too. Mini clamp as we dont wanna loose it when it comes flying off with the 2 screwdriver prybar method....cool.
the roll pin hole allows a a 5/64 and 2mm Allen head but not the next size up. Not sure how they sell em...probably a 20$ kit!-)
take yer Calipers .... I don't recall the actual Pin diameter off hand and I don't have an old one right now to measure .. you might find a nail fits in it....
Hey, the nail may be the answer......not sure where my calipers are....probably next to my oscillator!~)_
appreciate the help and I get it about not having one on hand to measure. Sorry about that.
kinda pictured you with all these books and files at your fingertips ready to deliver specs and data on a whim........lol. Take care, be well, Best Regards!-)
Ended up buying a kit for 10$ as the store i went to had that but no singles and wasn’t willing to spend the time for 10$.....besides, have never had a roll pin kit in 50+ years and its about time i did!-))
had to laugh though when none of the smaller sizes fit snuggly into the hole...
crimped the bigger one down and still wouldn’t fit....openned the smaller one up best i could and still loose as a goose.....
but the vacuum control module screws in pretty good and cut the pin just so....so it wouldn’t have room to come out....
gotta pick up a “c” washer thing to hold the kick down to the linkage....looked at a tie strap but it doesn’t give it enough movement.
any insights on whats going on here is always appreciated.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
