Sorry haven’t had time to get back to working on it yet, which sucks! Hopefully the next day or two!

 

So I put the carburetor I originally took off the truck on just to get it running and surprisingly I didn’t have to hit the gas or anything, just turned the key and she fired up (after getting the fuel pump to prime) once I get her running right (she has a skip I’m sure those old spark plugs need changing and some wires that run into the distributor have been cut and put back together 🤦🏼‍♀️) I’m going to try the other carb and I’ll get a code reader for it, only have ones for the 95 Ford.. I have a timing light already... But I have some questions about some of the parts on this carb, I just want to understand what they do better and so I know what they are if I ever need to get parts to replace them, which I’m sure it will need eventually. I’m glad it was mentioned about the EEC III because I never thought about it having something like that, at least the sticker was somewhat visible to read. I’m planning on keeping the EEC IV so I don’t take on learning a whole new system and the way it runs, right now. But I’ll post some pictures of what I have questions on, if you don’t mind helping me figure out what they are!

 

The EECIII system was a odd system they used for a few years on some of the earlier trucks. You have a EECIV system. Totally different, don't get confused and get led down a rabbit trail on that. I will try to help you as much as I can, but I will warn you I am a advocate of getting rid of these early computerized carb systems.

 

I am having a problem though. She keeps flooding out the top and I’ve checked the float and etc and it’s all fine, even replaced it just to make sure, I’m sure there’s something I’m not thinking if.. Any suggestions?

 

Check for excessive fuel pump pressure with a gauge, and take a peek at the needle & seat area for a piece of grit or trash. Ordinarily replaced as a pair when going through a carb.

 

Thanks. I didn’t think about checking the pressure because I put a mechanical fuel pump on it instead of a inline.. I figured the pressure would be the same.. How much pressure should it have?

 

Also it has a two stage power valve and when I first took the carb off it had a cap over the port that I guess hooked up to it... can I replace it with a single stage instead?

 

The two stage power valves were designed to (sort of) provide some extra economy when towing. They didn't work very well apparently and are no longer offered. I'd replace it with a single stage, at least for now. A 6.5 is provided in most carburetors today and in the rebuild kits. It's a good choice for stock engines with good high manifold vacuum, and folks who don't live at high elevations. Once you get into performance camshafts and/or operating at altitude it's a little more tricky. What you want to avoid is a power valve that is open and dribbling fuel when steady cruising on flat ground. Need a fuel tanker to follow you around.

A mechanic's vacuum gauge will test the fuel pump pressure, the shop manual has the spec, but I'd bet it's right at 5 to 6 psi, no more than that for most carburetors. This would be "static" pressure, no need to get fancy. Just connect the vacuum gauge to the fuel pump outlet and crank the engine over for a few seconds to get a reading.

A separate check is testing for volume, the engine will idle a few minutes on just the fuel in the carb bowl, direct the output from the pump into a container. Usually a pint in 30 seconds or less is spec'd OK. Keep in mind excessively high fuel pump output pressure is not a substitute for low volume, both have to be in spec.

 

Good to know about the power valve! I’ll get it hooked up and see because I can’t even get her to start she just pours gas everywhere. I guess the new mechanical fuel pumps have to much pressure. Thanks!

 

Well it's a pretty safe bet these days. But no way to tell for sure, don't guess, measure! Let us know what you find. Just check everything off step by step and you'll get 'er.

 

Have I missed it or has the question of what kind of transmission does he have?
Moore31 do you have the AOD transmission?
With you swapping carbs around it would make a difference.

 

Here is one of the pictures he took under the hood. Seeing that yellow cable coming up from the transmission, I am guessing it has a regular 3 speed automatic. He can confirm this though.

 

That yellow cable is the throttle cable as they have a "return spring" on them.
Just to the left between the yellow part & carb intake mount is the kick down rod for the transmission.
Dave ----

 

Whoops, you are right , thanks for the correction. I remember now, the carb has a special lever assembly that the kickdown rod hooks to. It has an adjustment on it, and it just sits there and doesn't move unless you are like 3/4 open or higher on the throttle opening.

 

And if that carb is not specifically for an AOD trans it will burn up his transmission.!!