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Wiring an alternator to my 1950 239, and have a wire run from the one wire alternator to the voltage regulator,( just to have somewhere to hook it) and then a wire to the amp gauge and from the gauge a wire to the starter sylinoid. Another place that I read it says that the alternator has to be wired through the ignition switch. I already have a wire from the ignition switch to the gauges which does not allow any voltage to the gauges until I turn the switch on with the key, so I cannot figure out why I would have to run the alternator wiring through the ignition switch independently.
Wiring an alternator to my 1950 239, and have a wire run from the one wire alternator to the voltage regulator,( just to have somewhere to hook it) and then a wire to the amp gauge and from the gauge a wire to the starter sylinoid. Another place that I read it says that the alternator has to be wired through the ignition switch. I already have a wire from the ignition switch to the gauges which does not allow any voltage to the gauges until I turn the switch on with the key, so I cannot figure out why I would have to run the alternator wiring through the ignition switch independently.
The internally regulated 2-wire alternator runs to the battery and to the key. The one wire only runs to the battery.
Not necessarily true. If you want the ammeter to function, you have to run alternator output to the circuit breakers, where a line with battery power (from the solenoid BAT post) joins it. That backfeeds the battery for charging, and is the wire that needs to run thru the ammeter loop. (I may have said the alternator wire runs thru the loop before, that is incorrect)
If it is a 3-wire, and needs an excitation signal, this is the hookup. OP have you contacted the guy who sold you the alternator? Without knowing what type you have you can't hook it up right. If there are two small terminals as show in the diagram, it is likely a 3-wire.
The internally regulated 2-wire alternator runs to the battery and to the key. The one wire only runs to the battery.
Effie Trucker is correct. Not certain how you would connect an ammeter to a one wire alternator. A warning light will not work with a one wire alternator. I think the only option with a one wire alternator is a voltmeter.
Wiring an alternator to my 1950 239, and have a wire run from the one wire alternator to the voltage regulator,( just to have somewhere to hook it) and then a wire to the amp gauge and from the gauge a wire to the starter sylinoid. That is correct. This should be a heavy gauge wire. Think of it as one single wire from the alternator, through the ammeter loop, and to the sillynoid.
Another place that I read it says that the alternator has to be wired through the ignition switch.
That is also correct if is a two or three wire alternator. This would provide field excitation, and be a lighter gauge wire in addition to the heavy gauge wire. However, if it is a true one-wire alternator then it is self excited and self sensing so only the single heavy gauge wire is used.
I already have a wire from the ignition switch to the gauges which does not allow any voltage to the gauges until I turn the switch on with the key, so I cannot figure out why I would have to run the alternator wiring through the ignition switch independently. If you had a two or three wire alternator, that wire would be necessary for field excitation ONLY when the key is on. It has nothing to do with the instruments.
Effie Trucker is correct. Not certain how you would connect an ammeter to a one wire alternator. A warning light will not work with a one wire alternator. I think the only option with a one wire alternator is a voltmeter.
I have a 1-wire, wired as I described in my previous post. Instead of connecting right to the battery, you connect it to the battery through the BAT wire going thru the ammeter loop. If it's charging, flow will go out that wire to the battery and register on the ammeter. In practice, I have never seen a negative (discharge) ammeter reading with the engine running.
With a one-wire alternator you cannot have a charging indicator light, if that's what you're trying to do.
If you're just doing a true one-wire negative ground self exciting alternator, just follow the path of the heavy red line through the ammeter (pretend the battery cutout relay isn't there). Very simple.
I have a 1-wire, wired as I described in my previous post. Instead of connecting right to the battery, you connect it to the battery through the BAT wire going thru the ammeter loop. If it's charging, flow will go out that wire to the battery and register on the ammeter. In practice, I have never seen a negative (discharge) ammeter reading with the engine running.
I agree for that type of ammeter it can be connected as you describe.
I have seen many ammeters read discharge for situations such as idling in gear with head lights and heater or A/C on. Very common on Ford and Chrysler cars of the late 1960's and early 1970's.
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