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what would cause a 2000 f350 7.3 to die when letting off the throttle for traffic light and not refire unless used starting fluid? also lack of power after, was towing 40' trailer did find plugged up k&n air filter and see it was sucking oil from valve cover, cleaned intercooler, new cps, new glow plugs, VC gaskets and wires, fuel filter, changed oil it has been hard starting for some time when below 40deg. thanks
Welcome to FTE. Prepare yourself and do yourself two Big favors. First and foremost... get rid of that starting fluid. Do Not Use It On These 7.3 diesel engines. Starting fluid has an uncontrolled detonation. Your setting yourself up for failure using starting fluid. If your vehicles has stock air filter housing the crankcase is venting back into the air intake. So a little oil in the intake is normal, but with a clogged filter, would be more pronounced. Second, buy a better air filter kit. Some guys are running 6637 or something. I'm happy with the Banks cold air intake. Truck dying when you let off accelerator could be Injection Pressure Regulator. Your probably going to get a hard time for the use of starting fluid.... All I can say is take your medicine and learn.
Yah I know was all I could do to get truck running and out of the road with a 40’ trailer attached to it!! IPR ??? Any ideas on the hard starting when below 40 deg??
Hard start cold is typically bad glow plugs or glow plug relay. If the GPR is bad you can bypass it with a screwdriver jumping the big lugs on the GPR. Lots of amps there so be careful. Jump the lugs for 30 seconds or so and see if it starts easier. If start is better the GPR is likely bad. If no change then some GPs are likely bad.
Plugging in the block heater for a couple hours can help too.
Pull the wire from the top of the ICP sensor. If it is wet with oil it needs to be replaced. Ford or IH only.
On any cold start problem, always start at the source. Closest and easiest to check is the batteries. Both need to be 100%. Which means both need to be fully charged and then load tested. If ONE battery is weak, as the truck is cranking, there will be a descending voltage that makes it incredibly difficult for the Cam Positioning Sensor to get a good reading on the timing of the engine. Thereby, no start. This problem is more pronounced is cold weather and seems as "no problem" in warmer weather. Some will disagree, and that's okay. I have seen it personally. Anytime I see someone post a starting problem and they say "batteries are good" , good is not good enough. Optimum condition batteries, clean cables, solid connections.....
You need three battery voltage readings with a cold engine.
1. Key Off
2. Key On.
3. When engine is Cranking.
Batteries have been tested there perfect, did just put high torque starter on it too! On compression test it does have on cylinder at 300 all others at 395-415, fuel pressure good from lift pump, tach jumps and oil pressure when cranking?? When running runs smooth power is hesitant was told could be IDM ?? Buzz test some sound different like not hitting same?? some sound weak?? Has 120 volt IDM now could this be issue with hard starting not giving enough power to injectors?
Yah I know was all I could do to get truck running and out of the road with a 40’ trailer attached to it!! IPR ??? Any ideas on the hard starting when below 40 deg??
Mine was a hard start below 40F. Start with glow plugs/relay. You may also have worn-out injectors. Glow plugs/relay did not fix my problem but injectors did.
