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The only thing I actually did was peel pack the vacuum line to a good section, as the exposed section linked pretty flakey. Its possible that wasnt working, but I still don't see it moving...should you see it moving with the AC in different modes?
great responses that I appreciate! Stuff I never considered. I'm thinking of some sort of shut off valve on the coolant line for the hot summers here...anyone do that?
Dan
Here is how I did mine. Cut the inlet heater hose and install the heater cut off valve. Run a T from the white vac line and install the vac line. Put hose clamps on. Installed like this and the only thing that closes the valve is when you have it set to max cool. Otherwise it works as normal. As I recall with a temp gauge in the dash vent the cooling was about 8 degrees cooler which makes a huge difference in S.E. Texas where we have summer 13 months a year.
The only issue I had was after running on max for months we had one day where the temp got down to 65-70. I switched to normal cool and got a mildew smell from the vent because the valve opened and I had no circulation for so long. It cleared up in about 30 min. So now I run the normal cool or vent often for just a while to keep the circulation active. One of the best mods I have done. There is also a double hose valve available but it is not necessary. Sandy
Very clever! So that "blend door" valve on the plenum is really just a shut-off door for MAX-cool then? I have not studied the system enough to know that stuff. Good to find out!
A good add to the thread. I live in a pretty mild climate so never had to think about the A/C needing a few more degrees of help. I don't mind doing that mod at all though, even here.
Bitchin. Since my white tube is busted off at the valve anyway, I have to fix it along with the other tired old plastic tubes. I'll do the T-thing right along with it.
Do you remember the application for the valve? We carry the mechanical ones for the old Broncos, but that's a very slick vacuum operated one.
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