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I'm throwing a few codes. One being code 332.
but do not have the funds to buy a new one. I was wondering if any one had some simple tricks or some insight on a possible fix with out having to spend money unless absolutely having to.
truck doesn't run to ruff may have a slight miss at idle an idles down when put into drive or any other gear. But biggest problem is when I'm just driving or cruising at a constant speed or when going up hill truck wants to go in to over drive an runs super low RPMs an chugs along. Untill I give it a good amount of gas. Any help or knowledge would be really appreciated. Thanks
That EGR code could just be a broken or cracked vacuum line between the EVR and EGR valve, that would prevent the EGR from opening but otherwise won't have any effect on engine operation. What other codes are you getting?
That EGR code could just be a broken or cracked vacuum line between the EVR and EGR valve, that would prevent the EGR from opening but otherwise won't have any effect on engine operation. What other codes are you getting?
157- MAF low or grounded
158- MAF high/short power
172- O2 lean right rear fuel control
173- O2 Rich right rear fuel control.
Try cleaning the MAF first and then see how it runs.
I did that last night cleared codes an ran the same. An the MAF is 2 days out. My coolant temps have been lower than normal for about a month now.
I was ready that that could make pinging or detonation
If the coolant temperature is too low, the engine will run in open loop all the time, and will not run as it should. You could need a new thermostat.
Also, cut out a block off plate for between the EGR and intake. You will still have a code, but you will know if the valve is seating correctly or not. If no change in running, back track the vacuum lines all the way back to the vacuum tree. You should do that anyway, and this could be your whole problem.
I'd hate for you to install new MAF and get same codes, if you havent checked your old one, and your harness could have a short(e.g. bare wire on harness) with the 2 codes you have.
on your bogging down, did you find your axle code on your door sticker?
what size tires, are you running, if you went up in size, and depending on axle code, could have a lot to do with bogging down.
what constant speed does it bog down at?
I'd hate for you to install new MAF and get same codes, if you havent checked your old one, and your harness could have a short(e.g. bare wire on harness) with the 2 codes you have.
on your bogging down, did you find your axle code on your door sticker?
what size tires, are you running, if you went up in size, and depending on axle code, could have a lot to do with bogging down.
what constant speed does it bog down at?
I just replaced the all the little color coded vac line an reset the codes driven it like 50 miles an still no check engine light.
And for the bogging j think it's do to a bad transmission module it's shifting in to OD to early
and have stock height tires. For the axel code I will have to go get it
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