When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
95 F150 4x4, Super Cab SB.
I know there are a thousand threads on this, but I don't see this specific question.
I picked up 1.5 inch leveling blocks just to give the truck a little better look. As the truck sits now, I can see a bit of negative camber, (probably due to old springs?), so will a small 1.5 inch lift in the front add so much camber I'll need new bushings, or if it only adds a few degrees it may be ok? In short, how many degrees of camber are added with 1.5 inch blocks, And how many degrees of adjustment are available with stock bushings?
it's sitting in brand new 31s with new shocks on order.
Seems like there would be a general lift vs camber degree change...regardless of if the springs are old and sagging....1.5 inch height change equals x degree camber change...No?
it's geometry, No?
Correct. But I've never seen a chart, even though they may exist. And I've yet to prove the "every vehicle is different rule" wrong!
I bet there is a chart out there somewhere that someone made based on their own mathematics, but as a general rule of thumb, I bet also that most owners do not measure their camber before the lift.
Not wanting to pay for two alignment checks, or not even thinking about it until after the fact probably keeps the number of reference checks to a minimum.
I for one though would be very interested in this chart.
I can't say for the 2wd trucks, but whenever we lifted a 4wd truck with either coils or add-a-leaves for the leaf spring trucks, the stock bushings never worked. Even though we'd heard it was possible to re-use them, we always had to change to a greater offset version.
Good luck.
Best I can remember, I went from a 3/4 degree factory bushing to 2.75 degree when I lifted mine 1.5". Maybe not perfect but close enough to give good tire wear and handling. I think the above was for passenger side, driver side had a half degree factory and I went to 2.5 degree.
I used adjustable bushings, and played around with them until the wheels checked vertical in my driveway. Never did get a shop alignment. That would save substantial time..
Best I can remember, I went from a 3/4 degree factory bushing to 2.75 degree when I lifted mine 1.5". Maybe not perfect but close enough to give good tire wear and handling. I think the above was for passenger side, driver side had a half degree factory and I went to 2.5 degree.
I used adjustable bushings, and played around with them until the wheels checked vertical in my driveway. Never did get a shop alignment. That would save substantial time..
So if I'm already looking at about a 2 degree negative camber due to old springs, adding 1.5 inches could bring it back to very close? I guess We will see once the new shocks come and I do the install. I'll get an alignment too, just don't want to buy bushings if I don't need to...
would love to see your stance with the 1.5 inch...
To complicate matters and make such a "chart" harder to rely on, different springs or blocks make different amounts of lift. They may say 1.5" but you may get a little more or a little less.
I recently installed new Moog front coils in mine and had to add 2" spacers to get mine level. When I took it to the alignment shop to have the camber changed I had to buy adjustable 3* bushings to get the camber correct. Real happy with the outcome
BTW I have a 96 F-150 short-bed 4x4 regular cab 351W with auto. Clears 33x10.50x15 Toyo MT's real good
To complicate matters and make such a "chart" harder to rely on, different springs or blocks make different amounts of lift. They may say 1.5" but you may get a little more or a little less.
I get all that...every truck is different, etc...but the fact remains that X inches of real lift will result in Y degree change...Its a radius that is Z inches from the Axis, right? I'm not a mathematician... but it seems like a simple equation for someone who is...it would at least give someone like me a guideline to plan from.
I'll figure it out...I just thought there would be someone who knew.
because this is probably short term, i eventually will...
Dan
You are one nut away from removing the old spring. How much is the leveling spacer? If you are planning on replacing the spring in the near future then, IMO, you are wasting your time and money on the spacers. In addition, if you are going to take the truck for an alignment then you should take it back after changing the springs since it will be different than the spacers. That means paying for two instead of just once.
wrongway01 did not say what Moog coils he used. I believe I used 844 which raised the front end.
Originally Posted by Dan P
I get all that...every truck is different, etc...but the fact remains that X inches of real lift will result in Y degree change...Its a radius that is Z inches from the Axis, right? I'm not a mathematician... but it seems like a simple equation for someone who is...it would at least give someone like me a guideline to plan from.
I'll figure it out...I just thought there would be someone who knew.
Dan
The eccentric at the top ball joint sets both caster and camber. Good luck eyeballing that measurement. The TTB front end was well known for being hard to get and keep aligned. It will wear the tires in no time if the alignment is not correct.
You are one nut away from removing the old spring. How much is the leveling spacer? If you are planning on replacing the spring in the near future then, IMO, you are wasting your time and money on the spacers. In addition, if you are going to take the truck for an alignment then you should take it back after changing the springs since it will be different than the spacers. That means paying for two instead of just once.
Thanks, and I agree, but I have my reasons...and still doesn't answer the actual question that I'm asking...
The eccentric at the top ball joint sets both caster and camber. Good luck eyeballing that measurement. The TTB front end was well known for being hard to get and keep aligned. It will wear the tires in no time if the alignment is not correct.
so if I left it alone, and the spring have sagged a bit, it would have the same effect just in the opposite direction? I know it's not a simple thing, but I'm simply trying to see what degree change based on a different spring height. No good way to get an answer...I get it...
If the camber is too negative it will wear the inner part of the tires.
When aligning the TTB front end you measure what you have then see what adjustment is needed to get back into spec. There is a chart that says what eccentric to use to get there. The other option was to remove the current eccentric and replace it with a zero degree eccentric. Take measurements and then replace with the new part. Remeasure to make sure it is now at the desired setting. Last thing to do is set the toe.
Forgot to add, I used Moog CC820 front coils. They are progressive and I needed new coils anyway. I looked at the lift springs but I wasn't sure how they would ride. Stock rate springs ride good for me. When they aligned my truck I was told that the 3* degree wasn't quite enough on the right side and I only needed 1.5* on the left to set camber.
