The only advantage the GM HEI has is simplicity there are some inherent deficiencies with the GM style HEI there are reasons on one else when down the GM style HEI road.. The GM HEI system of dwell adjustment that uses the ramp and ramp down design of the reluctor and pick up it does not actually measure coil load as Ford did with SSI and DS I.. The GM HEI is prone to carbon tracking within the cap due to the conductive path within the cap from the coil Also the loss in efficiency and spark intensity as the coil in the cap heats, this is unavoidable in the GM HEI system due to the coil being enclosed in the dist cap. Being an E core coil this is not as much as an issue as it is with bar core coils but still has an impact. These issues were considered unacceptable by both Ford and Chrysler and choose to go a different direction

The Dura Spark II system is the most basic of the ignition systems used by the big three and technically is a step backwards from the preceding SSI, The DS II system is little more than an electronic points replacement. The ONLY advantage it has besides the stability of electronic triggering of the ignition event, is dwell readjustment during crank. This is in part why it is derided as it is not a very sophisticated system nor is it a true HEI. But sort of bridges the spot between HEI and basic electronic ignition

DS II was never intended to be the defacto ignition system for Ford that was to fall on DS I, that was the logical technical progression from SSI and from Motorolas CDI system that Fords Dura spark and SSI systems evolved from. Yes that is right Fords electronic ignition system is derived from the near bomb proof and very advanced (for the era) Motorola Capacitive Discharge Ignition system

. DS I is a very sophisticated ignition system and far advanced over anything anyone else was using or used til thew advent of ECU controlled ignition systems.
The DS I system is a true HEI system with the coil being fed a full 12V at all times. Additionally, the system had a crank retard function that retarded the ignition timing during crank for easier starts and less starter strain. Dwell was adjusted in response to both engine RPM and coil draw to insure maximum consistency and spark intensity at all times. SSI Also adjusted dwell based on engine RPM and coil draw but did so only for spark consistency and not for maximum intensity. DS I also had a power-down function. If there was no trigger event in a set period of time the system powered down and prevented the coil from overheating until the next trigger event was sensed. While other systems had some of the features of DS I, DS I was the only one combine them all into one package.

There is a lot of myth out there about the Dura Spark system and some of the confusion is due to the various iterations. And it can be confusing but once one understands the how the system operates it is quite simple. And easy to diagnose. And unlike GM HEI and the

 

I have to admit, seeing "Made In China" on an Echlin part made me throw up in my mouth a little lol. They were the go-to electronic parts company for so many years. Not so much anymore.

 

Echlin never manufactured anything they just rebranded, mainly Blue Streak/SMP or Wells, and others.

 

I will update you guys as soon as I get the new dizzy installed. I had hoped to have it done this past weekend, but my mechanic was busy with another job. He did finish rebuilding my Motorcraft 2150 carburetor and said that he wants to hook up the choke. I think my truck was starting fine without a choke, but now he's got me thinking that maybe I should get it hooked up. As for the oil pressure switch, I heard about one of those when I was considering an electric fuel pump. Does anyone know if this will work for my choke?

Also, are you saying that I need to replace the current electric choke cap with a different one? I'll admit that I may not have needed to do the 3g swap at the time. It was recommended by others on this forum as a way to make headlights brighter and to clean up some of the wiring in the engine bay. When I was getting my water pump replaced, one of the bolts on my 1g altermator broke off inside and I decided to go ahead and just put in the 3g then. I don't regret getting rid of that rat's nest of wires. I also like the idea of adding luxury features to the truck, so going back to the 1g is not in the cards. I might do some power seats with heaters, power windows, stereo with backup camera, maybe electric fans at some point. I'm already planning to wire a fuse/relay box, so I'll be ready to power whatever I need, including an oil pressure switch like this.

 

lolololololololol

 

I don't know why, but people have really strong opinions about this stuff. The guy at Centech (I don't remember if his name was Jim) specifically recommends the $385 Davis HEI. I've read several posts from people on these forums that said they put in an HEI and have no issues at all. Others say that the stock everything on these trucks is better than anything else. I got lost reading all the details posted here about how these various ignition systems work. My plan is to try this and if it gives me problems I'll swap it out later. I mostly drive 2 miles back and forth to work every day so if a break down or can't start the truck one day it won't be the end of the world.

Thanks for the advice!

 

Run the cheap HEI and be happy, if you have any kind of performance intake they don't stick out like a sore thumb as much....I have to darn near yell at customers not to buy a stinking $400 MSD dizzy for their Ford because it's the same as the DS2 only less quality.

Personally I would use a normally open dependable Hobbs switch if your going to do the oil pressure thing. If that china switch fails or any of the wiring comes loose the choke don't open. I have connected the electric choke to be hot along with the ignition system on every vehicle I ever worked on my whole life.(except when they have the alternator wire) There is no reason to do otherwise....if the ignition system is on, the engine should be running. Another advantage is usually chokes need to be backed off a little in the winter, usually when there is not a choke pull off but even then still. If you start it and it's running pig rich, you can shut the engine off, turn the key back on for minute to open the choke and drive away and adjust another day.

If you are monkeying around and accidentally leave the ignition on and the choke opens and your have to pump it a few times whoop d do. It's your penalty for leaving the key on and ignition system energized...which you should not do...so it's a good reminder.

If you run the solenoid energized by the stock coil positive wire, there will plenty of juice of course to run the choke wire along with the ignition....that wire is also not energized with the key in accessories, so you can jam tunes or what have you without issue.

Not saying anyone else is wrong or to do it this way......heck lots of trucks had oil pressure switches that the ignition system ran through...no oil pressure, no spark.

 

....almost forgot, yes that switch will work if you choose that road.

 

Got the motor running today with the HEI!



My mechanic adjusted the carb too and the truck is vibrating less now. It stumbles a little, but not too much. We are still planning to put the stock carb back on now that it is rebuilt. At least then I’ll have a functioning choke. The manual choke on that Holley was sticking so I was afraid to keep using it. I still have a lot of work to button up everything from the cab swap, but getting the motor running again was a significant milestone.

 

Awesome! Make sure there is no slop in the accelerator pump arm, loosen the spring bolt a little if there is....may likely needs a larger nozzle as well, can be drilled too.

Thinking about the DUI, it's probably better because it has a better timing curve and possibly better parts, but not $300 worth. Any of the HEI are easy to change springs in and taylor your own curve.

And for the record, I personally would never use HEI because of looks but most importantly DS2 and TFI dizzy's are the absolute best for my needs in my shop...I know the wiring like the back of my hand and the capabilities are far greater...not to mention most DS2 vacuum advance are adjustable with an allen wrench...and are the cat's meow for efi as well.

That being said, in my 41 years of wrenching I think I've learned more about people than cars. If something is simple and inexpensive people want to use it, and we all have to swallow our pride sometimes and agree. One wire anyone can handle and people are not interested in why something was built this way or who built it, or want to go to school to figure something out... they just want to get their $)(!+ running.

 

Glad it's up and running around again!

Just curious, were you sure to always push on the throttle before moving the choke ****? Checking because even manual chokes have the stepped cam and you need to push on the throttle to allow the choke to be closed manually to any degree.
Even opening it back up they will not always open until you push on the gas while pushing on the ****.

Paul

 

I am sure my foot was not on the gas every time I touched that choke cable, but maybe some of the time. I never heard about that being necessary. I still have the Holley carb in the truck, so I could install that choke cable in the new cab and try that to see if it makes a difference.

 

Yeah, it's the cam that creates the need for pushing the pedal. Just like an auto choke, the more closed the choke plate, the higher up on the steps the high-idle screw sits.
When you're opening the choke up after starting, it will usually work on it's own without sticking (but not always) however setting it to a more closed position causes the high-idle screw to run up against the step.
If the particular carb uses a "ramp" instead of a "step" design high-idle cam, it would probably work. But without a smooth transition it just catches and makes setting the choke problematic.

Paul