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1997 SRW crew, 5.8 ZF5. Still playing with this project. Each time I fix something it gets a bit better but I'm still chasing a intermittent engine shake. Worked through the normal things, confident in vacuum, fuel pressure, EGR, O2 sensor, TAB TAD plumbing, IAC, throttle body, I have a correct idle RPM but a shake comes and goes and consistent shake around 1500 accelerating, smooth as silk decelerating. The computers temp sensor is new, air temp sensor new, TPS meters healthy. I have isolated the fan clutch and shake is still there. Determined one of the driveshaft pieces was bent early on and had the bent one retubed, both balanced, all new u joints and hardware. Plugs and wires and wire routing are recent/correct. Still have a compression check to do
but the motor is able to run smooth just not consistently smooth.
So I pulled the computer to look there. No signs of capacitor leaks or bad solders. The capacitors are brown, not the blue that seem to be the color talked about when leakage is seen.
I know for certain the driver's door is at least the second door on the truck because I put it there, possibly the 3rd. I cannot find the stickers for the life of me, I'm assuming they went with the original door or should they have been on the pillar behind the door on a crew like on a extended or standard can??. Trying to find the calibration code.
Please see the pictures of the computer. Is IRE1 the code? It's in two places.
also, should I replace the capacitors while it's out just as a good measure? They appear prestine.
the driver's door is at least the second door on the truck because I put it there, possibly the 3rd. I cannot find the stickers for the life of me, I'm assuming they went with the original door or should they have been on the pillar behind the door on a crew like on a extended or standard can??. Trying to find the calibration code.
Without the CALIB CODE, you are going to have a time finding correct system replacement parts.
the IRE1 is not your calibration code, but going by the F6TF-12A650-BJB, like Sandy said, Rock Auto had/has that one, Oreilly Auto also has it, but not that you should buy it, until you prove more thoroughly, that PCM is causing issues, have you checked your harmonic balancer, if it has spun/moved any could cause it, I just changed mine when I did water pump/timing gaskets, and my timing was off 4-5*, of me thinking 12* it was 7*, and had what I called a hard idle, not really a miss
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