I have money to spend for projects on upgrades that I do not have time to do right now. I have material for hutch and harpoon and I have searched but can not find the fuel water separator that mounts on the frame. I want to do this at the same time. Suggestions please. Thank you.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=raco...&client=safari

I think most are using the racor ps120 in the link above. You can also search for a frame mount, fuel filter mount and use a Baldwin diesel fuel/water separator Similar to what is used in heavy equipment and slightly less expensive.

 

I use WIX 33972 for pre-pump filter.

In-tank and pre-pump mods cost about $20 in parts.

People get really carried away with this... The stock primary filter does an amazing job of protecting the injectors. It really doesn’t need any ‘help’. Putting a low micron filter pre-pump will slowly destroy the OE fuel pump.

The RACOR PS120 allows a much higher unobstructed flow rate and has the ability to trap ‘free water’ - but does that with a 240 micron filter rating.

I use the WIX 33972 on everything but the highest HP trucks (+500hp with dual pumps, etc). At 50 micron it is comparable to what we removed from the tank. It seldom needs to be changed and I’ve installed several that have over 100k miles on them without any obstruction yet!

We don’t need any of this junk.



This all you need to do to pick-up. 3/8” compression union and a few inches of 3/8” tubing. Just cut the return hose in the middle of 180* bend and point it away from the pickup. I like to put a 90* bend at the bottom of the pickup tube so it can rest directly on the tank bottom.




You need about a foot of 5/16” 30R9 hose, WIX 33972 and (4) fuel injection hose clamps.

(Quick Disconnect fittings very rarely suck air - that is just a myth. )

 

Ok. I got all of this in case we needed this past weekend. But had copper tubing. I ordered stainless steel this morning-tubing and compression connector. Now just to find the time.

 

I'm with you on this 100% but I stay out of the discussions on it...unless you bring it up.

 

There certainly are preferences on the method to accomplish the H/H mod. I am a Racor PS120 guy and I am OK with that.

I wanted something that had an easily identifiable debris collection and an easy way to remove the debris. I have removed the clear Racor case twice since installing it due to contaminants sitting in the bottom. I check it during an oil change after I turn the lever on the Fumoto drain plug.

I have not changed primary fuel bowl filter in years as I installed a new filter when I did the H/H mod with the Racor. I keep an eye on the post filter fuel pressure for signs if the filter needing to be replaced. I don't go by mileage or time duration for the filter changes. If I am seeing ~62 psi post filter, then I know I am good to go.

I tend to go overboard with things though... For example I have OUO traction bars, Borg Warner SXE turbo, IH water pump, etc...

Sometimes I go cheap like the Dorman up-pipes, but usually I go overboard like replacing the driveshaft U-Joints just for good measure.

The best part about the FTE is that you can read and learn and take advice from one or many members. You can follow a write up to the letter or devise a more personalized method to accomplish the task.

Please do share what you chose to do with us when you get to it.

 

Nothing wrong with SS tubing, except it’s harder to cut and bend. I’ll send anyone who wants one, a piece of aluminum tubing for this. I have lots of short pieces left over from doing vegetable oil conversions (I use this for heated fuel lines).

If you find some extra TIME, I’ll take all of that I can get!!!

 

I love my Racor PS-120 but I kinda wish it had a drain valve. Anyone try tapping one in?

 

So, basically with this setup, we are relocating the screens in the tank to an accessible point out side of the tank

 

I've been tempted, and am considering getting an extra bowl to do this on so I don't break the one in service if I screw something up.

The biggest holdup I've faced is that a bottom drain will also create yet one more potential leak point.

 

Yes. We also eliminate the mixing chamber. The stock return fuel is recirculated and sucked out with the outgoing fuel. This also recycles any air the stock filter did such a good job of removing from the fuel.

 

I started with the Baldwin spin-on filters and had that setup for about 10 years. I installed this kit back in 2008 not long after I first bought my truck: https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-266...hutch-mod.aspx (back then it was ITP Diesel). I was just getting into the diesel world (first and only one I've ever owned), PMS, and the like so didn't know a whole lot. I wanted something that I knew would fit and all the pieces/parts were there. My truck was my DD so I couldn't afford extra days of down time to order a missing piece and wait for it to be shipped. Looking at the kit now the only thing that looks different is the filter mounting bracket and the price. I know many piece together their own kit but there's a reason that it's still for sale 12 years later.

Here's where I mounted the Baldwin filter...



I never used the drain valve and just swapped it once a year. I had no idea how much junk got filtered out or it the filter needed cleaning. I didn't buy the filter base separately but I'm sure the initial cost is cheaper than the Racor but after that it's about $20 per Baldwin filter every time you want to replace it where the Racor has a clear bowl to see any contaminants filtered out and has a screen to clean and re-install.

I switched to the Racor to a) stop buying filters, b) the Baldwin extends below the frame rail, and c) it was mounted where I wanted to install traction bars. I do a lot of off-roading and, although I never caught it on anything, I was always conscious of that when off the pavement.

Some have mounted the Racor above the transmission skid plate in a protected area but I decided against that. I opted to make things easier and mount it in the same location to make it a chop and swap. Plus it would be easier to drop the bowl, catch the fuel, and clean the screen if needed. Here's what it looked like after...



You can see that the bottom is above the frame rail which was one of my main goals. I never had any issue with the Baldwin but the plastic bowl did concern me regarding road/trail debris. I read that a few people put foam koozies over them to protect it. I had that on my list to do but never got around to it.

It wouldn't have been worth it to me personally. I only opened it up and cleaned the screen twice and that was in the first month I had it. After that I didn't open it again while I had the truck (about a year).

 

I have everything I need to do it with the WIX33792 filter. But I can't make up my mind right now, and I have found when that happens it best for me to wait and ponder. So if I find the time that SkySkiJason and I are looking for I'll go ahead and do the tank mods and do the rest in a manner that can be easier changed over. All I need now is a O2it. Thanks guys.

 

I did the same as you, used the Baldwin for 10 years, mounted in the same place, then switched to the Racor last year, mainly as a result of all the discussion on this forum. The only thing I did different was keep the AN fittings on the fuel lines and bought AN to NPT fittings for the Racor base. I also re-drilled the Baldwin bracket to fit the Racor. The Baldwin was a good filter and once a year I would open the drain and get a sample in a glass jar which was always spotless, never a drop of water or anything else that I could see with the naked eye. I think I changed it 3 or 4 times over 10 years. With that record it would seem that no drain valve is needed, but it's that one time I worry about that you pick up a load of bad or dirty fuel. I guess if it's a bad load of fuel though the drain valve wouldn't help much.