When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm going to be switching my y block from the draft tube to a pcv set up. I bought a valley pan with a pcv provision similar to the one below:
would you suggest using the original pcv "teapot" or using an aftermarket one? Also, in researching this, someone suggesting putting steel wool in the baffle box on the bottom of the pan to prevent sucking up oil. Is that neccessary? In the research I've done, I hadn't seen that recommended before. Any help would be appreciated.
The "tea pot" will require a pcv valve that can use a hose on each end, I think 1/2" and 3/8". I used to run a setup just like that. You can also install a grommet into that hole for a more common style of pcv valve. However, the valve may hit the threaded fitting for the "tea pot." That is easy enough to correct if you check before installation.
If the baffle is in good condition, then it will work fine to keep oil out. Nothing else should be required.
I'm going to be switching my y block from the draft tube to a pcv set up. I bought a valley pan with a pcv provision similar to the one below:
would you suggest using the original pcv "teapot" or using an aftermarket one? Also, in researching this, someone suggesting putting steel wool in the baffle box on the bottom of the pan to prevent sucking up oil. Is that neccessary? In the research I've done, I hadn't seen that recommended before. Any help would be appreciated.
Oil Control is not a concern on the PCV on carbed vehicles if the engine is good condition as the intake is wet and that keeps things clean. This is really only a concern on port fuel injected engines who's intakes are dry.
I suppose steel wool might not rust over time in that application, but it seems to me a stainless steel or copper "scrubby" might be the way to go for that, maybe something got mangled in the translation.
Oil control is a concern. You don't want the engine to be consuming oil via the intake (or anywhere else) regardless of it having a carb or fuel injection.
You want to retain the adapter on the pan. That is an oil (mist) separator. It minimizes oil vapors (with remote in-line valve and cooling tube) from being drawn into the intake tract.
If you put the valve into the opening on the pan, it will draw vapor. That and the DIST DRIVE throws oil straight at it.
You want to retain the adapter on the pan. That is an oil (mist) separator. It minimizes oil vapors (with remote in-line valve and cooling tube) from being drawn into the intake tract.
If you put the valve into the opening on the pan, it will draw vapor. That and the DIST DRIVE throws oil straight at it.
Just say no to a SS mesh insert.
thanks for that info. I had just assumed it was a valve itself. After looking at the info below, I guess I'm looking for part number 6a666. Thanks everyone about not adding the mesh to the box. It didn't sound right, but I thought I'd ask
I use this system on my Y's. The original mesh was deteriorated on both of them, don't know what the original material was made of. I was afraid of trying another type of material so I didn't use any. My engine uses about a 1/2 quart between 3000 mile oil changes. I can't see any oil in the line, pcv valve or the intake when I've had the carb off so I'm not sure that is what is causing the problem.
I use this system on my Y's. The original mesh was deteriorated on both of them, don't know what the original material was made of. I was afraid of trying another type of material so I didn't use any. My engine uses about a 1/2 quart between 3000 mile oil changes. I can't see any oil in the line, pcv valve or the intake when I've had the carb off so I'm not sure that is what is causing the problem.
Original open oil filler cap filter media was hogs hair. Then it went to steel mesh. It had to be serviced or replaced on a regular service schedule.
A better system is referred to as a CLOSED PCV SYSTEM whereas the filler cap is closed and draws fresh air from the ACL ASSY via tube. You may not like the appearance so an OPEN SYSTEM would be used. Do not buy a cheapie cap with foam plastic as a filtering media.
You need some type of filtering media as outside air is drawn into the system.
Original open oil filler cap filter media was hogs hair. Then it went to steel mesh. It had to be serviced or replaced on a regular service schedule.
A better system is referred to as a CLOSED PCV SYSTEM whereas the filler cap is closed and draws fresh air from the ACL ASSY via tube. You may not like the appearance so an OPEN SYSTEM would be used. Do not buy a cheapie cap with foam plastic as a filtering media.
You need some type of filtering media as outside air is drawn into the system.
I was referring to the media that was in the valley cover baffle.
I do have a closed system and draw the air from the air cleaner. The cap I used was from a late 60's mustang I think.
The adapter is C1AE 6A665-G I believe. You can still find them NOS or take-off.
Is yours 2V OR 4V?
Ditto on what Charlie said. Expensive but fully adjustable.
I have a 4v. I'm not huge on originality as far as the pcv is concerned. The adjustable one does look nice, but I don't know if I could justify the cost for a stock Y, in a cruiser pickup, that gets driven once weekly. There are some pcv part numbers floating around different threads that are more or less universal. I'll probably go that route. My current fill cap is vented, but I may get a new one. Although it appears to be aftermarket, I'm sure it's never been serviced. I suppose I could also figure out how to service it...... I really appreciate everyone's help and knowledge.
