When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
One could also get M12 threaded rod and wind the nuts down as far as they need to go.
This info should be added to the bolt thread list.
The threaded rod is a great idea and I appreciate you sharing that idea with us. This method would not only provide adequate space between the brackets of the stand and engine for spacers if needed, but adequate room behind the bracket for securing the engine with doubled up nuts.
I will indeed add this information to the bolt list in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder.
Originally Posted by HKusp
Sous, you are very thoughtful to be putting this together. I appreciate they way you run things around here. Keep up the good work.
You are welcome sir! In my opinion it is little details like this that turn a mole hill into a mountain of obstacles when someone is contemplating completing a task themselves. If we can alleviate that concern for just one detail, perhaps that will inspire enough confidence to adventure into the unknown and come out the other side with knowledge and a lifelong experience.
Thanks for the vote of confidence as well!
Originally Posted by Y2KW57
It sure ain't pretty... but it ain't Harbor Freight.
On the long lost list of round tuits, is an idea I have about adding a ratcheting crank mechanism with built in catch pawls that can stop rotation without relying on the torque of the T screw. The extra stick out of the shaft behind the stand (to the right in the photo immediately above) is there to accommodate this mystery ratcheting apparatus which I have yet to scrounge. I have a couple of toothed flywheels saved for the purpose, but beyond that, am open to suggestion. And such mechanism has to be able to live outdoors though, cause this cobbled together from scrap steel stand doesn't fold, and relies on residues from the oils previously dripped on it for corrosion control.
I would expect no less than over engineered and robust from you sir. Thank you for posting a picture of your contraption.
I cannot offer assistance regarding your ratcheting apparatus, but applaud your ability to design and implement something like this.
EDIT: Now that I have returned to the house from finishing some of my springtime chores, I have edited the bolt listing in the Tech Folder provided to us by FordTruckNoob.
A slight deviation from the thread topic that I thought was important to include in this thread is the information below regarding removing the engine from the truck with efficiency.
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
I remove turbo, pedestal and up-pipes. The AC compressor gets placed in the battery tray and the condenser will stay in place. The PS pump and bracket remain in the truck - no need to unhook any of this (but replacing the pressure hose as PM after you’re done is not a bad idea). Remove fan/clutch, radiator and CAC. Up and over the header panel, grill, etc. You’ll have to rotate the engine to get out/in.
In my time lapse video, I ran out of headroom to go high enough with hoist because I was under the garage door (not my usual habit...) - and had to remove the header panel at the last minute.
As I was drinking my morning coffee and watching YouTube videos, I ran across an engine stand video that brought up a good point.
He said, make sure that the engine lift and the engine stand are capable of working together cohesively. Basically, make sure that the lift is capable of getting the engine to the stand mounts without the legs of the equipment banging into each other. Either piece of equipment will be useless if you cannot get the engine from one to the other due to hard parts/supports banging against each other.
An I (i) shaped base stand is preferred over a T (t) base stand due to the inherent safety advantages there are with the I base.
Four swivel casters are better than two, but ensure they have the ability to lock in place. Four swivel casters will allow for side to side movement as well as forward and back. Not a big deal, but just something that I had not thought about that makes perfect sense.
A drip tray that is capable of being secured to the base once the engine is on the stand is a nice thing to have. I have seen those big tin disposable trays at the parts stores and even used them for various projects. This might make cleanup easier when that time comes and certainly keep the mess off the floor when moving the engine to various locations around the shop if need be. I think at the very least some neodymium magnets with 3M tape on the back could be used on a plastic or tin drip tray and this would hold the tray to a stand quite well and be removable when needed to get in close.
Excellent point about compatibility with hoist. I have experienced that problem.
I ordered a new 2k lb engine stand from fleabay that looks like the HF ones. I think it will be here tomorrow.
I need to reseal the oil pan on the engine I just bought. The seller told me at the last minute there was a hole in the oil pan. I said no big deal, just bring me another oil pan if you have one. Well, he installed it. With parts store brand sealant without turning the engine over. He also ‘inspected’ some of the rod bearings??
Needless to say, the oil pan is coming off again.
Ill post pics of the new stand when I put it together! And check for interference with my old 2 ton engine hoist.
Coming from a 5.9/6.7 background.....alot of guys make stands that have a front pivot incorporated, since the inline 6 theoretically las more leverage on the tiny piece of pipe tasked with holing it all.
Also sometimes a good option depending on what your doing, and you dont have a good stand is set it on its back, like this .If you have a sturdy table its an option as well. Probably not good for a 7.3 oil pan gasket...
The side mount works really nice for inlines for a few reasons, but not so well on a v-type engine.
Im looking thru my photos tot try and find a picture of the stand setup im talking about. Alot of time(myself included). I would take some of the weight off of the end by easing some of the flex up with engine hoist, then set it back down on wood blocks/jackstand while you are working for piece of mind. While rotating, other than hoping and praying, i would have the hoist in place with a chain "snug" around the balancer pulley or water pump pulley. All of this was with a "1000 lb" engine stand i bought at northern tool about 22 years ago.
Good point on the hoist compatability. Also it may seem obvious to some, but the best way to get your engine from hoist to stand is remove the rotating assembly from the stand, attach to the rear of the engine, then put into the hoist. In situations where the hoist is not quite compatable i have been able to attach the stand while still in mid air, and slowly lower engine whiel "forcing" the stand to the right direction. All under strict osha compliance of course.
Once i would put the head on, the nerves kick in and alternative measures come out. I hate to clog up 7.3 thread with cummins stuff, but i feel like this is good comparison because of the similar weights and extra leverage.
Hoist compatibility is definitely something to think of as well as the stand shape for the legs. The HF I used was an H style leg setup with 6 casters and the legs folded up for storage to minimize the footprint when it’s empty. I luckily didn’t have to worry about engine stand and hoist interference when I rebuilt my engine since I had a forklift at my disposal. How does everyone else load the engine onto the stand when using a normal engine crane? Last time I had the 2 together I thought the legs all ran into each other, not necessarily a problem for a gas engine with a buddy to help but you can’t exactly man handle the 7.3 block even with help
Also it may seem obvious to some, but the best way to get your engine from hoist to stand is remove the rotating assembly from the stand, attach to the rear of the engine, then put into the hoist.
Did you mean to say? Also it may seem obvious to some, but the best way to get your engine from hoist to stand is remove the rotating assembly from the stand, attach to the rear of the engine, then put into the stand.
I think you are saying that you can remove the head/bracket from the stand and attach that to the engine while the engine is still hanging from the hoist. Then, remount the head/bracket into the stand while the engine is connected to the hoist and the head/bracket, is that right or do I have it wrong?
Originally Posted by KubotaOrange76
I hate to clog up 7.3 thread with cummins stuff, but i feel like this is good comparison because of the similar weights and extra leverage.
No worries, this is a thread about safely lifting and mounting an engine and we are here to learn from each other and our experiences involved. I don't care if you have pictures of a 1.5L that is relevant to the conversation, tell us and show us!
Eaglescout94 brings up a good feature of a stand. The ability to fold and reduce the footprint while being stored. Just for clarity sake, his "H" stand is the same thing as the "I" stand I was referring to earlier, just from a different perspective.
Regarding your question, I am assuming that the hoist hangs the engine forward enough that someone can mount the engine to the stand either from the side and turning the engine perpendicular to how they removed it from the truck. Or, if the hoist legs are wide enough that the stand legs would fit between the hoist legs. Maybe someone has a picture or can describe to us drawing a picture in our mind of how they moved the engine from the hoist to the stand.
One could say we are over complicating this process, but as I said earlier in the thread this is just one of the reasons why we are here on the FTE for. To help each other conquer fears, frustrations and to answer questions and have a great place to have a conversation about things we want to learn about or share with each other.
Did you mean to say? Also it may seem obvious to some, but the best way to get your engine from hoist to stand is remove the rotating assembly from the stand, attach to the rear of the engine, then put into the stand.
I think you are saying that you can remove the head/bracket from the stand and attach that to the engine while the engine is still hanging from the hoist. Then, remount the head/bracket into the stand while the engine is connected to the hoist and the head/bracket, is that right or do I have it wrong?
No worries, this is a thread about safely lifting and mounting an engine and we are here to learn from each other and our experiences involved. I don't care if you have pictures of a 1.5L that is relevant to the conversation, tell us and show us!
Eaglescout94 brings up a good feature of a stand. The ability to fold and reduce the footprint while being stored. Just for clarity sake, his "H" stand is the same thing as the "I" stand I was referring to earlier, just from a different perspective.
Regarding your question, I am assuming that the hoist hangs the engine forward enough that someone can mount the engine to the stand either from the side and turning the engine perpendicular to how they removed it from the truck. Or, if the hoist legs are wide enough that the stand legs would fit between the hoist legs. Maybe someone has a picture or can describe to us drawing a picture in our mind of how they moved the engine from the hoist to the stand.
One could say we are over complicating this process, but as I said earlier in the thread this is just one of the reasons why we are here on the FTE for. To help each other conquer fears, frustrations and to answer questions and have a great place to have a conversation about things we want to learn about or share with each other.
Yes i meant to say stand, not hoist. My bad!
I do not have any pictures, maybe my sketch is legible, but usually the stand will either fit in between the hoist legs, or one stand leg in and one leg outside the two hoist legs. like this. Sometimes its close to where you can do what i described above and massage it to overcome any interference with the two sets of legs and get it down on the ground. This has always been the case with the two hoists and stands i own, and all the big am small block fords, 5.9 cummins and inline 6 ford's and chevies.
The situation in the bottom of the sketch i could usually overcome by the process above, and turn the stand to where it sets one leg down first, then the other follows suite.
Lifting the engine and stand together as someone described above, with a long chain then pushing the stand out of the way of the hoist legs on the way down can work.
I often use my tractor or chain hoist from the rafters.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
