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I've got the 7.3 out of my excursion. I wanted to know what mods everyone recommends while the engine is out. I've sent the injectors out to get tested at full force diesel in Tennessee.
I was thinking of doing head gaskets, head studs, pushrods and rockers, etc.
What work does everyone recommend I do with the engine out?
First we must know what your intentions are for the engine... Is it a drag race truck? Is it a tow mule? Is the engine out just because or did you pull the engine because it was about to explode? Tell us a bit more information other than "THIS IS WHAT I HAVE IN MY FACE!!!!"
The long story short is that I thought I threw a rod and pulled the engine, but it seems like it's an injector. (My first diesel)
It's going to be a daily driver and occasionally tow. Very mild.
I don't want to spend more on this block than a new long block would be, around 4k or so. I'd like to focus on mods that need to be done with the engine out ad will increase reliability.
The long story short is that I thought I threw a rod and pulled the engine, but it seems like it's an injector. (My first diesel)
It's going to be a daily driver and occasionally tow. Very mild.
I don't want to spend more on this block than a new long block would be, around 4k or so. I'd like to focus on mods that need to be done with the engine out ad will increase reliability.
Hahaha, same story here, I started noticing a knock, tick like but it seems to be common when an injector is dying/loose, I'm just waiting for my gauges to arrive so I can check compression and fuel pressure before shelling 8 new injectors. First diesel too.
I was thinking of doing head gaskets, head studs, pushrods and rockers, etc.
Seems like total overkill for a mild build unless it has super high miles. 7.3 high, not just 400k high.
Replace the dipstick tube adapter thing for sure, and reseal the oil pan or replace if it's rusty or damaged. I'd do a front cover re-seal too since that would require engine removal or a lot of very crappy work later. Re-seal the oil cooler. New injector cups. Rear main seal, maybe front as well. Actually, since you have a $4k budget just replace every seal/gasket on the thing, but head gaskets would be overkill, unless it's super high mile.
I'm contemplating pulling the engine on my '02 Ex to give it a refresh; what stuff did you have to remove to get the engine to lift out? Not looking for all the nitty gritty details like disconnecting stuff, but more like what had to come off the front of the vehicle and did you have to remove the turbo or any other engine parts?
In addition to what others have said, inspect all pigtails and replace the tired ones. Not just on the engine but the ones in the engine compartment too. Open up and clean out the AC condenser and box.
I am going to strongly recommend AGAINST removing the heads. These head gaskets basically never fail. No need for head studs until you’re above 2x stock HP.
Also, no reason to remove an oil pan or front cover if they aren’t leaking. It is very rare they develop a leak at the seal. If you decide to remove oil pan, I recommend weld in dipstick flange and have it sprayed with Pro bedliner if you live in the rust belt.
This is a good time to rebuild the oil cooler and fuel filter. Check turbo for shaft play and rebuild with 360* thrust washer kit if needed.
Youll want to do the $0.52 mod and might as well replace the GP’s since they are out.
Remove the coolant drain plugs in the block. You’ll want to do a cooling system flush when you get the engine back in and these plugs must come out. It’ll be waaaay easier to get them out on the engine stand.
Upgrades? I would consider Stage 1 injectors (160/0) if you need injectors. You’ll need a chip (Hydra) and gauges for this, but you want that anyway. Bellowed up-pipes are a given. DIY delete EBPV or rebuild the turbo pedestal if this feature is good for you (faster warm-up while idling). An upgraded compressor wheel (Riffraff 4+4) will go nicely with your Stage 1 injectors. Plenum inserts and upgraded CAC boots and clamps are always a good idea.
I dont get too excited about changing things like belt tensioner/idler and water pump, because they are easy to change when they ‘need it’ - but if you have a budget for that now, go for it!
If I think of something else I’ll chime back in later!
Seems like total overkill for a mild build unless it has super high miles. 7.3 high, not just 400k high.
Replace the dipstick tube adapter thing for sure, and reseal the oil pan or replace if it's rusty or damaged. I'd do a front cover re-seal too since that would require engine removal or a lot of very crappy work later. Re-seal the oil cooler. New injector cups. Rear main seal, maybe front as well. Actually, since you have a $4k budget just replace every seal/gasket on the thing, but head gaskets would be overkill, unless it's super high mile.
I'm contemplating pulling the engine on my '02 Ex to give it a refresh; what stuff did you have to remove to get the engine to lift out? Not looking for all the nitty gritty details like disconnecting stuff, but more like what had to come off the front of the vehicle and did you have to remove the turbo or any other engine parts?
I had to pull everything out of the front, radiator, intercooler etc.
I had to remove the turbo too.
It really wasn't that bad to pull it. The bell housing bolts gave me some trouble but it wasn't too terrible.
Here's a pic of me pulling it out. I removed everything from the front of the engine.
@SkySkiJason when you remove an engine, do you remove any of the heat exchangers in the front? The radiator, intercooler, anything that we cannot see in order to gain more space?
I see you removed the fan, fan clutch, oil fill tube, turbo and maybe pedestal. Perhaps this is where you make up the space to get the engine out of the truck instead of removing any of the exchangers and bumper?
Bellowed up-pipes are a given. DIY delete EBPV or rebuild the turbo pedestal if this feature is good for you (faster warm-up while idling). An upgraded compressor wheel (Riffraff 4+4) will go nicely with your Stage 1 injectors. Plenum inserts and upgraded CAC boots and clamps are always a good idea. 
