I have fault code P0470 on my '05 6l. I have an SCT tuner which I normally use to read codes. When I first noticed the engine light on I connected my tuner but kept getting a low voltage error on the tuner. I charged the batteries, tried again but got the same low voltage error. I called SCT, could be the tune? Im beginning to doubt it is. I Bought a battery tester, fully charged CCA tested normal 1045, voltage 12.67 ea battery (Im getting off course from my original question here). Anyway, I bought a Scanguage II from Bullet Proof Diesel. If I look at exhaust back pressure when driving the truck the EBP looks to be reading fine. I am unable to clear the fault code with the Scan Gauge. I visually checked the wiring to the EBP sensor it seems fine. Im just wondering if taking replacing the sensor makes any sense since EBP looks fine on the scan gauge.

I have more testing to do on my low voltage issue but I will add that cycling the glow plugs on a 20 degree day drops battery voltage to 11.3, then to 9.1 after start. I read the 7 page thread on battery issues, great video from Too Many Toys so I have great starting point. I am leaving towards bad batteries even though they test fine when fully charged. They are approximately 6 yrs old but I want to check current to GP mod before dropping $300 on new batteries.

 

Most of the time a P0470 code is fixed w/ a new (OEM, not aftermarket) EBP sensor.

Just be aware that the SCT is not a very good code reader.

 

Something that I’m working on right now it seems like checking the CCA only, if at all, may not be the best way of evaluating batteries.

Sometimes train wrecks do have value.

Our Lincoln LS eats batteries, all LS’s do. There are 4 computer modules in those vehicles basically designed by Jaguar, think in terms of Lucas Electrics.

It doesn’t matter what battery goes in in, at around three years it’s time. So I have a 850CCA battery on the edge, and the two 850s from the F350 that have sat more then used. With the LS, I can get the CCA value up in a sufficient range, the battery resistance is another story. With the battery in the vehicle I can pull down the voltage deeper then a new battery, the same that occurs with the 6.0s.

Checking the resistance may be a better tell, although it’s not as easy as just putting a DOM across the terminals, which shouldn’t be done. Six years on batteries is pretty good.

I wouldn’t cycle the glow plugs. They do fine just as they are. You run the risk of overheating the tips and you draw more current out of the batteries before starter engagement, which drops the voltage lower.

 

thanks for the replies. Plan on picking up a new EBP sensor this evening after work,

Picked up a couple of new batteries yesterday, I will install those this evening as well. On start up this morning (30 degrees F) voltage dropped to 9v and FICM main power was dn to 43. I don't want to run the risk of damage to the FICM. I've this truck since new (100k miles) and so far, besides a bunch of front end work all I have had to do is replace 1 FICM and 1 CAC tube. That being said, I need to bring the reliability back to a point where I am not concerned about dragging my snowmobiles to northern Maine with no plug in and know the truck will start when its time to leave...

TMT are you suggesting to just turn the key and start in the morning without letting the glow plug light go out? I live in Maine and sub zero degree starts are not uncommon this time of year..

 

NO, do the normal start once the glow plug warmup lamp has gone out. I took the term "cycling" as others have used it since you were referring to very cold temps. Once the lamp went off they turned the key off and turned it back on to double the warm-up time before starting. 20sec + 20sec for example. If you are not doing that, nevermind.

 

ok got it.. No, I do not do that on start ups... Thank you for the guidance, much appreciated

 

ok, new batteries installed, voltage drop due to the glow plus is now to 11.6 when starting at 50 degree.
I was able to run my SCT tuner so system voltage is definitely up. When the batteries were disconnected it cleared the P0470 fault code which makes sense since EBP was showing normal on the Scan Gauge.

I did a fault code read with the tuner and picked up 2, P0674 (glow plug #4 cylinder fault) and P1000. P1000 PCED OBD systems readiness test not complete OBD monitors/drive cycles incomplete. I will run the truck again to see it this one returns. Question on the glow plug fault code though>....... My truck runs pretty rough when cold, after a few miles to warm up it runs better. I was first thinking that this was due to stiction in the injectors... Now, Im thinking it could possibly be the glow plug issue??

 

P1000 can take some time to clear after disconnecting batteries. The truck has to run through different conditions for the programming to see if everything is well.

The faulted GP can be the cause of rough running when cold. The only hassle about changing our a glow plug is the connections heat age and break apart. The harness is not that expensive, but the little pieces of plastic are left inside the valve cover and can drop down the oil return ports and go to the oil pan. The pieces should get ground up in the oil pump and then caught in the oil filter and HPOP screen. The only way to eliminate this is a PITA. Remove the valve cover beforehand and plug the return holes so if the connector break, you can recover all the little bits.

 

Thanks TMT. I ordered a harness and 4 gps. I did passenger bank last year. Great advice on removing the valve cover ahead of time. When I did the passenger side I did end up breaking one of the caps off on a plug. And yes a Royal PITA to get it off after breaking the wire off and everything. I ended to screwing a screw into it and pulling out out with pliers. Hoping this one will go smoother but..... I’m doubtful 😉