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So, as I am having the top end of my engine rebuilt I am wondering some things. I currently have a welded-type delete on the 6.0 and am wanting my mechanic to flash my ecm back to stock(if he determines it is t currently stock) so that I can then run a moderate tow tune. The question I have is, with this 03 6.0 will it throw a code when I go back to stock because of the delete? I do not know if it is currently tuned or not (the previous owner says no). Currently the truck has no stored codes for the delete. Are there still tune options available for this without causing an issue with the delete? Im clueless but want to get a SCT livewire so that I can use it as a monitor as well.
It depends on what's on the PCM as of now. If you go to Mode 9 data on the IDS you can see what's on the FICM, TCM, and PCM. If you have anything other than VXAP1 or VXAP2 you're in better shape for power, performance, and fuel economy.
If you see VXAP1 or VXAP2 you're still good it's just that the earlier PCM and FICM calibrations are better.
The 2003-2004 trucks and some 2005 trucks don't mind the EGR being gone. So you may be good to go, you can run a mild tow tune from Gearhead, but it depends on how much you tow.
Aaaaannnnddd I just realized that the VIN is showing as a SCT Serial number.... great, will this prevent my PCM from being able to be reflashed by my mechanic? I have no idea what tune Im running. Great, just great....
Not at all, just reflash to the latest and you'll be back in business. You may not even need the a tune, the point of the tune is to turn off the check engine light, that's it. It's not going to prevent the truck from running. If you had a 2008-2019 Super Duty and deleted the DPF without a tune, yes you would need a tune to even start the truck.
The EEC does continuous (every 8ms) monitoring of this EGR sensor and works on low (.3) and high (4.9V) thresholds. The EEC's EGR Monitoring conditions were expanded dramatically (flow, commanding and entry parameters) in later versions of Ford's OBD. In your case 2003 and slightly later variants, a re-flash and "disconnecting" the sensor won't set a CEL.
As for ANY tunes, I strongly endorse (as I'm in the repair industry and tunes have been a FANTASTIC STIMULUS for expanded repair work).
The EEC does continuous (every 8ms) monitoring of this EGR sensor and works on low (.3) and high (4.9V) thresholds. The EEC's EGR Monitoring conditions were expanded dramatically (flow, commanding and entry parameters) in later versions of Ford's OBD. In your case 2003 and slightly later variants, a re-flash and "disconnecting" the sensor won't set a CEL.
As for ANY tunes, I strongly endorse (as I'm in the repair industry and tunes have been a FANTASTIC STIMULUS for expanded repair work).
Thanks for the info. Im going back to factory tune and not looking back, I was gonna tune it, however I am going to take what hp I gain from the upgrades Ive done and leave well enough alone. As for wrench turning, I will be doing all my own work after this job is completed. It was just too much work and I need the truck back quicker than I could have done it.
Anyone know if my 2006 would set a CEL? I have AutoEnginuity with Ford Enhanced license, and these are the values it shows in the Vehicle Information screen when communication is first established. I'm not sure what CVN stands for, but there are three numbers below it. I queried AutoEnginuity support about it and was told he had no idea what CVN stands for. I think my heads have 18mm dowels based on the engine serial number on the FICM label and the TSB on commonized heads. My 6.0 is stock and no tunes. I've thought about programming the FICM with the eco-strategy though.
Anyone know if my 2006 would set a CEL? I have AutoEnginuity with Ford Enhanced license, and these are the values it shows in the Vehicle Information screen when communication is first established. I'm not sure what CVN stands for, but there are three numbers below it. I queried AutoEnginuity support about it and was told he had no idea what CVN stands for. I think my heads have 18mm dowels based on the engine serial number on the FICM label and the TSB on commonized heads. My 6.0 is stock and no tunes. I've thought about programming the FICM with the eco-strategy though.
Calibration:
VXCF5H5.HEX
CVN:
62267572
679CFE25
CF3E3712
How does it run?
How is the power and fuel economy?
Although the preferred is VXCF4XX, there are some mixed reviews on VXCF5 family of strategies. You may also still have either AMZ2AL10, AMZ2AL12, or APZ2AL01 on your FICM. If the injectors buzz after you turn the truck off, you have APZ2AL01.
Although the preferred is VXCF4XX, there are some mixed reviews on VXCF5 family of strategies. You may also still have either AMZ2AL10, AMZ2AL12, or APZ2AL01 on your FICM. If the injectors buzz after you turn the truck off, you have APZ2AL01.
Runs good. Power is fine. Typically some turbo lag if punching it from low speed like when speeding up to an entrance ramp on the freeway or from a red light. Less pronounced at higher speeds but still some lag. Fuel economy when I first bought it would get 17.7 or so on long highway drives. Last time I did a long drive of about 4 hours got about 16.4 on a long trip. In town about 12 to 13 mpg. I replaced the FICM injector supply driver board several years ago. Haven't seen FICM Main V below 48 since and typically 48.5 to 49. My turbo could possibly need to be cleaned. Max boost is about 20. Lag and boost aren't any different from when I first bought it though. Always been there.
I've cleaned my EGR twice since I bought it. Last time was about 4 or 5 months ago. Fuel and oil filters get changed regularly, and I changed the air filter early on, but it didn't really need it changed. Only run OEM filters. Run 5w-40 Delo synthetic. Used to run Mobil1 Turbo Diesel. Don't think it's worth the extra coin anymore. Blue spring installed shortly after replacing FICM board. ECT and EOT track nicely once steady state temperature is reached before and after I flushed Ford Gold to CAT EC1 ELC. I monitor with a DashDAQ-XL with Ford Enhanced license. Battery and FICM V is watched every time I crank. Won't kill another FICM like that twice. Trickle charge with a Battery MINDER if I do any consecutive short trips with it. Starts fine in cold weather since FICM and batteries replaced years ago. I've installed TooManyToys suggested driver's side frame rail to block ground cable, but no other changes to charging system cables yet and alternator is stock. DashDAQ typically shows about 13.3 volts when charging but I think there's impedance drop to the PCM because if I stick my Fluke meter under the hood it will show about 14.4 across the battery terminals running.
I'm not sure I know the difference in buzz vs inductive heating. Seems like I've seen people use the term buzz test to describe what they hear doing an injector test. That sounds like clicking to me, not a buzz. When I turn my key to on, not yet starting, I hear what I consider to be a buzz, then crank when the glow plug light goes off. Isn't the buzz caused by inductive heating, or is that due to something else? I don't hear any buzzing when I turn the truck off. It just turns off.
I haven't seen many threads showing FICM strategies like you listed. Most all threads on the subject only address PCM strategies. It also seems like opinions vary on what the preferred PCM strategy is. This is the first I've read about VXCF4XX being preferred. Has anyone ever posted specifically what the differences are in the various strategies for contrast and comparison? That would be a nice reference. Usually there are just vague references to better fuel economy and power and differences in inductive strategies. Pretty muddy subject to me. I guess the tuners must know it all inside out. Well, I typed a mouthful, but figured to preempt possible followup questions.
Bringing this back up. My mechanic is saying that when he hooks up the computer to my truck to flash it that it is saying there are no updates for the pcm and wont allow him to flash it.
Is this in fact the case? He says the only way to get back to stock is to buy a new pcm.
Can I just program over the sct tune that is there using a different sct?
Bringing this back up. My mechanic is saying that when he hooks up the computer to my truck to flash it that it is saying there are no updates for the pcm and wont allow him to flash it.
Is this in fact the case? He says the only way to get back to stock is to buy a new pcm.
Can I just program over the sct tune that is there using a different sct?
Correct me if I'm wrong but tuners take the stock tune out of your truck, load in the aftermarket one and "hold" your stock tune from the pcm until you use that specific device to "return it to stock".
After that I have no idea if the dealer can reflash ur pcm back to stock or if it needs those specific stock files for that PCM.
Correct me if I'm wrong but tuners take the stock tune out of your truck, load in the aftermarket one and "hold" your stock tune from the pcm until you use that specific device to "return it to stock".
After that I have no idea if the dealer can reflash ur pcm back to stock or if it needs those specific stock files for that PCM.
The programmer will keep your stock file so it's married to your truck. The file it installed is different.
Unless you specifically ask or twist their arm some, they'll usually use the latest strategy for you truck. So for example if you have VXCF4HB, they'll probably use VXCF9H7 for your tune. They assume that most folks have had their truck reflashed to latest updates to avoid alot of the cold start and performance issues. Me personally, I run the older, earlier PCM and FICM calibrations and my truck likes the earlier stuff better than the later calibrations.