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E40D Reinstall, Engine Wont Turn WTF Did I Do/Please Help

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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 05:00 PM
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E40D Reinstall, Engine Wont Turn WTF Did I Do/Please Help

Long and short
Removed the E40D trans from my 94 f150 5l v8

cracked trans pan, drained pan fluid, replaced the solenoid pack which was confirmed NS. Drained TC. Then followed all steps from the how to on this forum to remove the trans.

Did crank Seal, oil pan seal, removed torque converter from the shaft. Removed the TC shaft.
Inspected them all for condition and damage. Replaced the pump seal only. Bushing was fine.
Reinstalled the TC shaft all the way in. Seated the TC all the way in. Thunked and seated home into the pump.

Put the trans back up using jack. Rotated the crank by the front of the block to get the flywheel holes lined up with the TC bolts. The crank and flywheel spun. Tc bolts through the flywheel and the trans just slid forward easy and seated. Put bell house bolts in snugged but not torqued to spec yet.

went to rotate the flywheel again to thread on and torque the TC nuts onto the TC bolts and the engine wont turn now! Which by default means the TC is not rotating in the trans! So I'm at a stand still now. What the hell did I do wrong? Is the trans just locked up because the fluid is all drained out? If I have to drop the trans it would not be too hard to do really because nothing is really reassembled.

I followed the steps as detailed on this forum for removing the E40D. I dont understand why the TC is not spinning now.
I was able to rotate the TC before I pulled the trans obviously because i needed to get all 4 buts off TC through the window plate and access them by rotating the crank from the front of the block.

Can someone help me out here please. This has been a really smooth job up to this roadblock.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 05:11 PM
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You did not get torque converter seated all the way. the torque converter should be loose when bellhousing bolted up if seated correctly.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 05:25 PM
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moose4x4 is right, loosen the transmission mounting bolts and get the torque converter seated properly, It is possible to crack the front transmission pump by not having the TC seated. When it is done right you can turn the TC by hand to align it with the flexplate bolt holes.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 05:30 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Define wont turn? By hand or with the starter/ignition switch?
If not by hand:
You have to start with the basics even if you think you didn't. Is the trans in park?.........Hey,man we all make simple mistakes lol.It could be this easy.

If not with the key:
Did you plug the range sensor back in? Try lifting the shift handle up higher in P position and or try while in N to see if the cable needs adjustment? Remember,this sensor is also the neutral safety switch.


 
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 06:16 PM
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FORD250HDXLT you remember posting this,
How To Reman The E4OD/4R100 - Complete Video Walkthrough - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

about the 18:00 minute mark shows how to check that TC was seated all the way lesson 16 see below

 
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 06:35 PM
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Mother f....
There it is. TC NOT fully seated....

Well....bolts off and back she comes again lolol
It's honestly not that hard to do. Will be another hour and I'll be back to where I was.

Thanks a million guys

Also for one of the other statements. Yes the trans was pulled while in park fully.

Not too bad. I'm glad you have to rotate the flywheel to get the nuts on or I really would be ****ing crying lol A good lesson learned the best way.....the hard way lol
 
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by OneFifty94
Mother f....
There it is. TC NOT fully seated....

Well....bolts off and back she comes again lolol
It's honestly not that hard to do. Will be another hour and I'll be back to where I was.

Thanks a million guys

Also for one of the other statements. Yes the trans was pulled while in park fully.

Not too bad. I'm glad you have to rotate the flywheel to get the nuts on or I really would be ****ing crying lol A good lesson learned the best way.....the hard way lol
While you have it apart, check to make sure the front pump or gear did not crack. Better to find it now, if it did.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 06:43 PM
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From: MD
Originally Posted by OneFifty94
Rotated the crank by the front of the block to get the flywheel holes lined up with the TC bolts. The crank and flywheel spun. Tc bolts through the flywheel and the trans just slid forward easy and seated. Put bell house bolts in snugged but not torqued to spec yet.
The trans needs to be fully seated to the motor and the bell housing bolts installed BEFORE you install the TC bolts. The TC should rotate easily to line up with the holes in the flexplate,and the TC should need to be pulled towards the flexplate,by the bolts,indicating it was fully seated in the pump.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Briansshop
The trans needs to be fully seated to the motor and the bell housing bolts installed BEFORE you install the TC bolts. The TC should rotate easily to line up with the holes in the flexplate,and the TC should need to be pulled towards the flexplate,by the bolts,indicating it was fully seated in the pump.
Ack and fully understood.
This was not the case. So the TC was way too far forward clearly. It was pretty much pushed up to the flywheel by the time the trans mated to the back of the block.
I really hope i didnt cause any damage. The bell housing bolts were snugged up with very little resistance.
I'm really hoping I didn't crack the pump or damage anything.
Once I get her slid back again, what am I looking for inside the pump through the seal to confirm if I cracked it or just learned a good lesson here?

I cant see how it would have cracked the pump, its heavy steel. The gear at the rear as the video shows (which is the part that I clearly did not get the TC to seat into) is pretty damn heavy duty steel.
I really really hope I didnt cause damage.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2020 | 01:48 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by OneFifty94
Ack and fully understood.
This was not the case. So the TC was way too far forward clearly. It was pretty much pushed up to the flywheel by the time the trans mated to the back of the block.
I really hope i didnt cause any damage. The bell housing bolts were snugged up with very little resistance.
I'm really hoping I didn't crack the pump or damage anything.
Once I get her slid back again, what am I looking for inside the pump through the seal to confirm if I cracked it or just learned a good lesson here?

I cant see how it would have cracked the pump, its heavy steel. The gear at the rear as the video shows (which is the part that I clearly did not get the TC to seat into) is pretty damn heavy duty steel.
I really really hope I didnt cause damage.
Look for the pump drive gear, that fits onto the flats on the torque converter, it needs to be in one piece and not broken or gouged. The engine would not spin at all, correct? If it had turned, like it was trying to crank, the TC snub would have ground into the pump drive gear, creating metal particles that would have then washed into the innards of the transmission. Once that happens all manner of bad things can occur. Been there done that long ago.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2020 | 08:37 AM
  #11  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Oh bummer.Well,people have been making that mistake since the auto trans were put in cars.This is one of the mistakes I never made over the years thanks to my dad telling me how important it was and showing me as a teenager when I went to re-install my first trans in a car.Yeah,here's to hoping that you didn't hurt the pump.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2020 | 11:39 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
If not by hand:
You have to start with the basics even if you think you didn't. Is the trans in park?.........Hey,man we all make simple mistakes lol.It could be this easy.
No, it couldn't be that easy. The engine and torque converter should turn by hand no matter what position the shifter is in. Park, reverse, neutral, OD, 2, or 1, it doesn't matter. None of them can prevent the torque converter from turning.

But the converter not being seated in the pump will do it every time.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2020 | 12:01 PM
  #13  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Yeah,right.The output,not the input gets locked up in park.You can spin the crank over with a breaker bar any time.hmm.Too much on my mind I guess.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2020 | 01:33 PM
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I believe the E4OD torque converter seats into place with 3 clunks while turning.
Once properly seated, use a torque converter hold down bracket, or similar tool to hold the converter in place while putting trans into place behind engine.

I used a box end wrench, and one bolt, which applied little pressure to hold the torque converter in place, while muscling it into place.

This way, you don't have to worry about it slipping forwards. Torque converter should spin freely, much easier to turn torque converter to line up to flex plate, than spin engine.
Also, once trans is mounted to engine, I always verify torque converter can spin easily, just grab one of the torque converter studs, and move it back and forth. Each stud will hit the flex plate with a distinctive ring. This movement is only a millimetre or so.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2020 | 05:01 PM
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All very much appreciated info guys. Greatly and truly appreciate it.
I could not turn it at all so I don't think I ground anything at all. As long as I didnt crack the pump face I think ill be fine. Like i said I noticed it was seized when I tried to turn the crank by the front of the engine using a socket on the balancer.

I was sure it was seated. I did research it before installing but I did not confirm the depth of the TC after I thought I had it. It was a long day working on other stuff before installing it. I recall being able to rotate the TC prior to jacking it up and pushing the trans forward to mount. I have a strong feeling it slipped forward when muscling the trans towards the block.

Its coming down tonight and I'll post back if I suspect damage. I'll check inside the pump through the seal for damage on the gear or mauled up TC rear stub etc

This site is a God send. Thanks for the patience and replies guys.
 
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