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I would definitely check the torque on the injector hold-down bolts, and make sure your torque wrench is calibrated. I am doing my injector cups for a second time, after only 40k miles on them, because my torque wrench was WAY off and it turns out they were only torqued to about 80 inch pounds. Several of them were loose, one injector cup backed out and started leaking.
If your truck has never had the injectors out, you may well be OK, but since you are in there anyway...
beside the bugger picker operating the clunky dealer computer systems, like he said. the diagrams from this era pretty much suck. generic line drawings and often many choices.
both the contacts I gave you eat, sleep and breath 7.3. they likely know more about your 7.3 and its parts then the engineers who designed them. you will get not just the correct part but a schooling if you call them. online is good as well if you know what you need.
Deciding whether to replace the HPOP lines? Had a leak fixed by a (shady shop?) and I’m assuming they should have replaced the lines at the time, but do these look like original? Should be replaced?
Those look original to me. I replaced mine a couple years ago when I did a bunch of other work. I didn't like the idea of one of those lines bursting while pulling my RV up a mountain.
Those look original to me. I replaced mine a couple years ago when I did a bunch of other work. I didn't like the idea of one of those lines bursting while pulling my RV up a mountain.
Thanks and ya I agree. They should have been replaced at the time fixed leak
A lot of people install the fittings and hoses from CNC Fabrication, but I bought new fittings and updated Motorcraft hoses from Riffraff diesel. Either will be good for many years to come.
A lot of people install the fittings and hoses from CNC Fabrication, but I bought new fittings and updated Motorcraft hoses from Riffraff diesel. Either will be good for many years to come.
Thanks. just ordered new hoses from riff raff and some of my other parts from Diesel orings. When you say new fittings, can you explain or send link?
There is a fitting that screws into the HPOP output and the cylinder head inlet port. The hoses snap into the fittings. Get the ones from Riff Raff without the check valves.
I pulled fuel line to replace and found some significant oil beneath turbo. Both in the valley and on the line to the turbo. The location of line beneath turbo is not located in proximity to be responsible for the valley oil (unless spraying but unlikely). Thoughts?
oh boy that is a slippery slope but i have done enough of them i have a standard reciepe
engine oil and fuel maintenance items
turbo pedestal o ring
EBP solenoid o rings/ replace/ disable
passenger side fuel line replace/ mount mod
fuel bowl o ring clean/ parker sleeve
billet fuel pressure cap
fuel pressure rebuild
IRP clean/ rebuild
hpop line replace
Motorcraft UVC wiring harness/gasket (never aftermarket)
shim injectors
that will pretty throughly freshen up the top of the motor oil/fuel stuff and be good for another 200k unless you have a specific issue like injector cup leak or failed injector.
then there is the front of the motor that also begins to fail at around the same milage.
i like to do it all at once so it doesn't become a break down every trip deal where you end up replacing it piece by piece on the side of the road.
radiator
fan clutch
water pump
thermostat
thermostat housing
all 5 coolant hose
coolant recovery tank
cap
idler pulley
tensioner pulley
altetnator
AC clutch
AC clutch bearing.
heater hoses and quick release o rings
note.... while the turbo is off for o rings I do:
up pipes
all 6 CAC boots
valve cover CAC inserts
it also time to inspect all engine wire harness pig tails at least 6 inches back from connector.
all replacement parts are motorcraft or better which for the most part is hard to do and rare.
exception being FPR billet cap from www.dieselorings.com and Valve cover CAC inserts from riff raff. all others are motorcraft or navistar purchased from those 2 trusted vendors only. difficult to weed through the scam prone internet or parts store china junk looking for quality )
as they say, be carfull pulling on that sweater string
wondering if I should replace the block heater before reinstall the oil cooler?
it’s been an Alberta truck and block heater has been used a lot during the winters? From a bit of research it seems reliability can be hit and miss but after 250k miles and almost 20 years, probably would be a good idea ?
A lot of people install the fittings and hoses from CNC Fabrication, but I bought new fittings and updated Motorcraft hoses from Riffraff diesel. Either will be good for many years to come.
I did the crossover and oil pump lines from CNC.....they leaked. They changed the material since but I would/did go with RiffRaff.
01-14-2020, 11:37 AM
