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I recently clogged my oil cooler when I flushed the coolant so I will be taking advantage of the situation and go ahead with new OEM HG and ARPs. Below is the parts list I currently have on hand. Please let me know if I am missing anything. The truck already has the updated turbo feed tube, blue spring, radiator hoses, drive belt, and thermostat.
Parts list
* ARP's
* OEM HGs
* Standpipes
* Dummy plugs
* Motorcraft injector o-ring kits X 8
* 6.4 Banjo Bolts - with new washers
* STC fitting
* OEM intake, exhaust, rocker box, valve cover gaskets
* Motorcraft glow plugs X 8
* Glow plug harness - Passenger and drivers side
* OEM Oil cooler
* Turbo drain tube
* Oil filter bypass valve
* Riffraff CAC boots
* PCV valve o-ring
* Rotella ELC
* VC9
* Distilled water
* Motorcraft SP tranny fluid for a drain and fill.
Dashboss - Will be installing the following as well.
* EGT probe
* Fuel pressure sender
I think that is everything, what am I missing here?
Might as well get new exhaust manifold bolts n spacers. And the up n y pipe bolts n nuts. Also the push tubes. Not sure if you are raising the cab,, if so, get some Teflon orings for the ps lines. The orange oring for the oil filter stand pipe. Plus the fuel filter housing seal kit. Oil dipstick oring. We always replace the ebp tube and the adapter that threads into the manifold (2 separate parts there). Ex Trans filter. Heater core feed tube oring for the front cover. Donut gasket.
May not have to replace but after talking to some people here I would recommend checking the nipple cups on your oil rails while its apart and replacing the O-rings if they are loose. I was just looking at them for my truck (chasing possible high pressure oil system leak) and for about $75 on ebay you get the tool and new O-rings for both sides
I found that by removing the left side motor mount and lowering the engine to the frame, you get more room on the right side to get to the head bolts and valve cover bolts. Crank the engine by hand to bring the pistons down as far as possible to avoid bending the push rods. Finish the right side and crank the motor to clear the pistons on the left side. Don't forget to remove the fan shroud. Also check the ipr screen.
I found that by removing the left side motor mount and lowering the engine to the frame, you get more room on the right side to get to the head bolts and valve cover bolts. Crank the engine by hand to bring the pistons down as far as possible to avoid bending the push rods. Finish the right side and crank the motor to clear the pistons on the left side. Don't forget to remove the fan shroud. Also check the ipr screen.
I plan on removing the HVAC box for clearance on the passenger side. How was clearance on the drivers side for you? I would really like to get this done without beating on the firewall.
Everybody else has you covered on the engine side -- since you're doing the trans fluid anyway, why not upgrade to the '08+ trans pan and superior pick-up filter? A hundred bux or so and a very nice upgrade...
I knew I should have looked around more while visiting. My HHC nipple tool and o rings should be in tomorrow. Keep a list of stuff needed. I,m thinking of pulling the trigger next year after shoulder work.