Radiator Time
I wouldn't pay the Mishimoto prices though for a radiator. Just get one that is 100% aluminum that does not have plastic caps on it.
For the water pump, I bought an IH pump 5+ years ago and it was dramatically different than the one I removed from the truck. I hear Airtex pumps last a long time too though, so it really comes down to how much you want to spend and if you really want the best or if you want what is good enough for 100,000 miles.
I wouldn't pay the Mishimoto prices though for a radiator. Just get one that is 100% aluminum that does not have plastic caps on it.
For the water pump, I bought an IH pump 5+ years ago and it was dramatically different than the one I removed from the truck. I hear Airtex pumps last a long time too though, so it really comes down to how much you want to spend and if you really want the best or if you want what is good enough for 100,000 miles.
I do it once and it's done.
I'm looking at RiffRaff now.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/water-pump-7-3l-96-03/
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/water-pump-7-3l-96-03/
‘’If you go with an aftermarket radiator make sure it’s the exact same thickness as the OEM. If it’s too thin the shroud won’t fit tight and air will take the path of Resistance and the fan won’t pull 100% of the air through the radiator, IC etc. Regarding the pump, Motorcraft or International...
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If I ever need to replace it, I will paint the new one black or dark gray.
I have 3 things to add here that I came across when I installed my Mishimoto radiator.
* First, I had to install a couple of rubber shims at the very bottom where the OEM Shroud (dowels) drop in to the Mishimoto radiator Shroud supports. This kept the Shroud nice and tight and in place for my road trip. I don't know why the shroud has so much play here. The Factory installation was a much better fit here. Maybe to fit other vehicles, I don't know. I installed these rubber shims because I had them on hand. I will eventually drill and tap the ends to install a plastic or metal bolt. It doesn't need have a lot of clamping force to hold down the shroud here, so again maybe a 1/4" plastic bolt that you just hand tighten for ease of removal and installation.
* Second, I felt a need to install a couple of plugs in the Transmission cooler ports at the bottom of the radiator as well. Most of our trucks have an external Trans-Cooler, so no need for these. I guess it wouldn't hurt to leave them open, but for me, It wasn't an option. It would be nice if the Mishimoto radiator came with the plugs already installed in there. This way If you chose to use the Mish/Transmission cooler, then you just remove the plugs and thread in your transmission lines. If you find yourself wading thru any sort of mud, or even with time, this cavity will fill debris and completely plug it up.
* Third; I changed out the drain port plug the radiator came with to an EZ port drain Valve w/90*. This makes it much easier to drain the Coolant into a bucket, and not shooting out all over the place.
my OEM rad failed on a road trip snd the easiest one to get was the lifetime warrenty $200 Duralast from autozone.
it has some packaging damage but i installed it anyhow.
when i got home I exchanged it for a new one and the store manager let me cut it open to inspect it. compared it to the motorcraft. both external and internal, the build quality and construction were equal. I was impressed and would buy it again for another vehicle. ( since this is the last one i will ever have to buy for my 7.3 )
replaced the waterpump, fan clutch, tensioner, idler as well as all 5 hoses and cap and belt motorcraft.
went with dorman on the coolant tank due to availability.
chose the new 4 seasons AC compressor, condensor, TRX and tube from autozone because of the lifetime warrenty and decent price.
I have a 99 V10 and later added the OTW transmission lines when installing a new OEM radiator. The OTW cooler helps drop transmission temps while idling and cruising.
@Mark Kovalsky can speak more on the necessary OTW cooler.
I have 3 things to add here that I came across when I installed my Mishimoto radiator.
* First, I had to install a couple of rubber shims at the very bottom where the OEM Shroud (dowels) drop in to the Mishimoto radiator Shroud supports. This kept the Shroud nice and tight and in place for my road trip. I don't know why the shroud has so much play here. The Factory installation was a much better fit here. Maybe to fit other vehicles, I don't know. I installed these rubber shims because I had them on hand. I will eventually drill and tap the ends to install a plastic or metal bolt. It doesn't need have a lot of clamping force to hold down the shroud here, so again maybe a 1/4" plastic bolt that you just hand tighten for ease of removal and installation.
* Second, I felt a need to install a couple of plugs in the Transmission cooler ports at the bottom of the radiator as well. Most of our trucks have an external Trans-Cooler, so no need for these. I guess it wouldn't hurt to leave them open, but for me, It wasn't an option. It would be nice if the Mishimoto radiator came with the plugs already installed in there. This way If you chose to use the Mish/Transmission cooler, then you just remove the plugs and thread in your transmission lines. If you find yourself wading thru any sort of mud, or even with time, this cavity will fill debris and completely plug it up.
* Third; I changed out the drain port plug the radiator came with to an EZ port drain Valve w/90*. This makes it much easier to drain the Coolant into a bucket, and not shooting out all over the place.
@countrycar What size is the 90º valve? Size of the other fittings?
I'd like to get these while waiting for the "box with yellow tape".
Thanks, Carlos.
https://www.ezoilchangevalve.com/sto...mm-1.5%5D.html
On Edit. Let me know if you'd like me to put a tape measure on the valve assembly and post up some pictures. I know sometimes it helps. I struggle to get a true feeling or clear understanding from pictures.
















