Smooth-quiet-happy
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 729
Likes: 147
From: Butler, OK
Smooth-quiet-happy
Ok, after reading in here for over a year, im about to start.... um... enthusiast upgrades. Specifically, smoother, quieter, thus theoretically happier, engine adds. Looking at riffeaffs oil connecting line, to smooth pressure spikes... considering the fuel connecting line from them as well. And of course, the hutch and harpoon. As well as a 6637 changover. My ask at the moment, is have i missed any other "easy" small change mods that would also help the happy happen.
happy new year ya'll
happy new year ya'll
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,859
Likes: 365
I am also considering the FRX and hpx. I have read a lot of reviews and most seem to be pleased with the results but there are a few that said there was minimal change. Interested to see what people have to say about these products if they have installed them. I have already done the hutch and Harpoon mod and can definitely say that it is worth doing. If anything preventing the truck from running out of fuel at 1/4 tank is worth it but also seems to smooth the truck out some.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,807
Likes: 125
From: Colorado Springs
The FRX definitely, IIRC some say remove the check valves in the HPOP rather than the HPX. I did the HPX (oil) and no matter what I do I have a Very light weeping of oil. The H&H will definitely help smooth and quiet the engine. I would also replace the HPOP hoses if they’re stock, they’re something that leaves you on the side of the road and a HUGE MESS! If you’re doing the intake, since it’s accessible, I would also replace the high pressure hose on the power steering pump if it’s original. Protect the passenger side fuel line from the anchor, middle of valley, because it will wear through. Check turbo for play and turbo and pedestal for leaks. Clean and Check all boots for integrity and the clamps. Remove the fuel bowl heater plug and tape it up. 
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
H&H @Sous style with a Racor120 made a nice improvement. FRx made almost as much sound difference and allowed me to change the pressure spring to keep the fuel pressure up on WOT runs uphill towing heavy. Definitely recommend those 2 mods. HPx, i have no 1st hand experience, many who do say skip it and eliminate the HPOP check valves instead.
Another thing to do in pursuit of quiet is torqueing your injectors back to factory levels. Can be as dramatic as the H&H mod or more depending on your injectors looseness. But it's much more time intensive and all the "while I'm there" things can add up to a full day or weekend of work.
Depending on how focused you are on quieter, you can add sound deadner inside all the doors and the interior. I know a crazy guy that even added it on the underside of the cab while he had his transmission out for a clutch job
Another thing to do in pursuit of quiet is torqueing your injectors back to factory levels. Can be as dramatic as the H&H mod or more depending on your injectors looseness. But it's much more time intensive and all the "while I'm there" things can add up to a full day or weekend of work.
Depending on how focused you are on quieter, you can add sound deadner inside all the doors and the interior. I know a crazy guy that even added it on the underside of the cab while he had his transmission out for a clutch job
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,350
Likes: 5,945
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
H/H is a great idea...
Skip the HPx...
6637 can be loud, but it can be quiet if matched to a more advanced turbo. If you are sticking with the stock turbo with slight modifications, the AIS is your best bet.
Do some reading, searching, more reading and searching and then some more. Make a list with sources and prices and make your decisions from there.
Post your list up here if you like, we are always helpful when others are spending money...
Skip the HPx...
6637 can be loud, but it can be quiet if matched to a more advanced turbo. If you are sticking with the stock turbo with slight modifications, the AIS is your best bet.
Do some reading, searching, more reading and searching and then some more. Make a list with sources and prices and make your decisions from there.
Post your list up here if you like, we are always helpful when others are spending money...
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 729
Likes: 147
From: Butler, OK
H&H @Sous style
I know a crazy guy that even added it on the underside of the cab while he had his transmission out for a clutch job
I know a crazy guy that even added it on the underside of the cab while he had his transmission out for a clutch job
I remember a thread to this end... thought the guy was nuts. Then i found out hes an Okie, and all was explained
H/H is a great idea...
Skip the HPx...
Do some reading, searching, more reading and searching and then some more. Make a list with sources and prices and make your decisions from there.
Post your list up here if you like, we are always helpful when others are spending money...
Skip the HPx...
Do some reading, searching, more reading and searching and then some more. Make a list with sources and prices and make your decisions from there.
Post your list up here if you like, we are always helpful when others are spending money...
Um, 2 things... it might already be... maybe, by accident. (Mouse) or that could be the water sensor...
and, why?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
guilty as charged 
The fuel bowl heater isnt needed unless you live in climates where it's -20* and untreated diesel begins gelling bad enough to cause a no start. Plus, it's on the same fuse as the PCM, which can obviously cause a no start when the heater goes bad and shorts out. Or in some cases (i have that tshirt too) bad surging/dying without actually blowing the fuse. It will run fine without it plugged in. For years
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,350
Likes: 5,945
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I will never know as much as A LOT of these fellas have forgotten about these trucks. I am going to meet with a 7.3L guru soon to change the 6 U-joints in my front and rear driveshafts soon just because I have never done U-joints before and would much rather learn in person with an experienced mechanic leading me than by watching some joker on YouTube. This also affords me the opportunity to catch up and shoot the **** for a while as we stare at his truck and talk about different modifications and aspects of said truck.
Keep the questions coming... There are no stupid questions especially if you are learning something before you make the mistake.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 729
Likes: 147
From: Butler, OK
Ok, just looping back, the air filter... is more of a "happy" than quiet goal, as more air = good. Though, long term im planning to upgrade the turbo, so im trying to stay conservative, and purposeful in my mods and upgrades so im not redoing stuff. I hate spending twice. Im gonna dig around and research the hpop check valve delete. I sure as heck dont want to put any new leaks in the engine bay. Not just for dirty, but because they bother me = i think something must be wrong....
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 885
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh
If you’re going to go removing the lines anyway, and are looking to avoid future leaks, I’d just upgrade them to the CNC Fab HPOP stainless braided lines. I just did it myself. This will eliminate the notoriously leaky “quick connect” factory fittings and the CNC lines are meant to be run without the check Springs. Plus the factory lines are known to burst at the worst times, and that will leave you stranded wherever it happens. Two birds, one stone, not very expensive.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 729
Likes: 147
From: Butler, OK
Well. Those look nice... and if they have to be removed, anyway to pull the springs... lol my issue, as always, is just wanting to buy a buttload of parts, tear in, and build back with the new stuff. But. Budgets, time, wife..... gotta take small steps. Its a bright sunny day in western Oklahoma, so ima go feed hay and smell the diesel fumes
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,859
Likes: 365
If you’re going to go removing the lines anyway, and are looking to avoid future leaks, I’d just upgrade them to the CNC Fab HPOP stainless braided lines. I just did it myself. This will eliminate the notoriously leaky “quick connect” factory fittings and the CNC lines are meant to be run without the check Springs. Plus the factory lines are known to burst at the worst times, and that will leave you stranded wherever it happens. Two birds, one stone, not very expensive.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 729
Likes: 147
From: Butler, OK
Just curious @Colorado350 what brand lines did you use for your hpx? I saw that cnc fab had a line for that, too. Not just the hpop replacements