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To properly set a new crush sleeve or use the shims, I'd have to remove the carrier. If I go that route, I might as well just had mine rebuilt. Finned diff covers do nothing for the diff due to the dead space of air behind the diff when moving forward. Those are a total waste except for the BLING factor.
I agree that you should have had yours rebuilt, but here you are with a 4.30 rear end from LKQ with a leaky pinion seal.
Oh, and since you're pulling the carrier you may as well change those bearings too!
Originally Posted by z31freakify
Not the OEM 08-10 diff covers, they actually cool the oil, unlike the aftermarket ones.
Agreed. Ford wouldn't have engineered this part if it didn't work.
A heat sink doesn't necessarily have to have moving air to work. I think it's called convection, I don't agree that there is no moving air down there either.
I wouldn't just slap your old yoke on the "new" diff and call it good, you'll be back where you are now in a couple months. At least you'll have your old rear end housing to rebuild when the "new" one starts dripping again.
I'm not quite sure I'd mess with the pinion seal at this point.....unless you're sure it's going to drip. That looks like a slow weep, and "I" could tolerate that. It could be that the vent hose was plugged causing the weep. I'd clean it, run it...and keep an eye on it.
So, for all the Banks haters, this video alone should make you realize that they are the best aftermarket source for whatever it is they make. Their parts are engineered like OEM's and I can tell you from experience, they work. I dont work there or make any money from talking them up but working in the industry, I know what they do is right.
I will be purchasing this diff cover today as well as their exhaust for my EX. Im tired of patching up garbage parts.
For what its worth, on the backing plates, hammer and dolly for a couple of hours should fix your issue.
I'm not quite sure I'd mess with the pinion seal at this point.....unless you're sure it's going to drip. That looks like a slow weep, and "I" could tolerate that. It could be that the vent hose was plugged causing the weep. I'd clean it, run it...and keep an eye on it.
I need to change the yolk, you suggest not changing the seal while I have the yolk off? Plate vs strap
So, for all the Banks haters, this video alone should make you realize that they are the best aftermarket source for whatever it is they make. Their parts are engineered like OEM's and I can tell you from experience, they work. I dont work there or make any money from talking them up but working in the industry, I know what they do is right.
I will be purchasing this diff cover today as well as their exhaust for my EX. Im tired of patching up garbage parts.
For what its worth, on the backing plates, hammer and dolly for a couple of hours should fix your issue.
If you can find a Banks Diff cover for the Ford, please let me know.
The backing plates are really messed up on the bottom where they put the Diff on the ground. I'm going to have to take them off to straighten them out where they meet the axle flanges. Now if I have to take them off, why not save a lot of time and just move my good ones over?
If you can find a Banks Diff cover for the Ford, please let me know.
The backing plates are really messed up on the bottom where they put the Diff on the ground. I'm going to have to take them off to straighten them out where they meet the axle flanges. Now if I have to take them off, why not save a lot of time and just move my good ones over?
Just talked to CS at Banks, 3-4 months for the Ford application. Its in development, next for release and it will fit our trucks. He said I will get a text, now that I called, a couple of weeks before it hits the site. That way I can call and order one before everyone else. Yes, I'll let you guys know. FYI, when I called, he picked up the phone and said "Hi Jeff....". Thats customer service!
I thought you also had a strap driveshaft of the proper length. But if you are changing the yoke, by all means throw a new seal in.
Someone had suggested modifying the plate driveshaft by removing the plate and then getting the correct size U-joint to attach the drive shaft to the strap yolk. My issue is that will move the front yolk 1.5" out of the transmission, which I am not sure is the best idea?
This looks to be the correct inner seal for my 04 10.5 Sterling axle, but I see several complaints about them leaking. Does anyone have any experience with them? Also, what about the notation: "USE RD247 TO INSTALL SEAL" ?
Someone had suggested modifying the plate driveshaft by removing the plate and then getting the correct size U-joint to attach the drive shaft to the strap yolk. My issue is that will move the front yolk 1.5" out of the transmission, which I am not sure is the best idea?
I'd probably swap to the flange. Me? I'd get the axle mounted on the truck. You're going to be pulling the axles to swap the backing plates. Pull the axles, use an inch/lb torque wrench to measure the pinion preload (it will also be measuring the rotational torque of the carrier.) Remove the yoke, seal...replace seal, install flange....and with new pinion nut, tighten until you get the same pinion preload torque measurement. If you want...get a new crush sleeve.
Cleaned up the Axle housing and painted it. Pulled the axle shafts and hubs, started cleaning things up. The inner seals all came apart. I have all the new seals and gaskets, just have to lift and support the X, disconnect everything from its original axle and drop it out, lift the replacement in and bolt everything back in. Oh, pulled the diff cover and found its an open carrier.
Took me 4 hours today to get the 3.73 rear axle out of the Ex. Tomorrow I'll swap the pinion yolk, slide the 4.30 under the truck and see how far I get before getting too sore to continue.
Looks like you got it covered, but in-case this helps, this is how I raised and supported the rear when I did new leafs. It freed up my jacks and stands for other uses when doing the work.
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