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I'm just not wanting to have to put $$ into a rear that per the seller is supposed to fit the Ex.
You can fight the seller and the shipping company over the yoke issue and the bent backing plates or you can fix it and put it in. My wager is that you will be happier and have less invested if you just fix it yourself and put it in.
I would get an inch/lb beam type torque wrench and measure the turning torque on the pinion before pulling e existing yoke. Yank both yokes and gently snug down your "old" yoke on the "new" diff. Now you can measure the turning torque and sneak up on the same value you had before. If you over crush the "crush sleeve" you will have a very short lived axle.
You may want to change the pinion seal while you're there, but I hate doing that without doing the pinion bearings, it's the kind of project that can snowball into a rebuild. Maybe get a crush sleeve eliminator shim set, I hate crush sleeves...
As recommended above, the backing plates and axle seals are pretty cheap from Rock Auto.
Good luck, especially if you try to fight the seller and shipper!!!
Picked up my 4.30 drive shaft today. Its a large diameter aluminum shaft with the plate type yolk on the rear, opposed to the steel shaft that I currently have. Both are just a tad over 66" in length. So it does look like they should be interchangeable.
Picked up my 4.30 drive shaft today. Its a large diameter aluminum shaft with the plate type yolk on the rear, opposed to the steel shaft that I currently have. Both are just a tad over 66" in length. So it does look like they should be interchangeable.
Probably a shaft with a higher terminal velocity. The 4.30 shaft makes more RPMs for a given road speed. Interesting things happen to an over-sped driveshaft!
Aluminum driveshaft for the 4.30 gear Aluminum driveshaft for the 4.30 gear Flange vs strap Backing Plate Backing Plate Pinion leak Pallet it was shipped on from Ca to Fl
You can fight the seller and the shipping company over the yoke issue and the bent backing plates or you can fix it and put it in. My wager is that you will be happier and have less invested if you just fix it yourself and put it in.
I would get an inch/lb beam type torque wrench and measure the turning torque on the pinion before pulling e existing yoke. Yank both yokes and gently snug down your "old" yoke on the "new" diff. Now you can measure the turning torque and sneak up on the same value you had before. If you over crush the "crush sleeve" you will have a very short lived axle.
You may want to change the pinion seal while you're there, but I hate doing that without doing the pinion bearings, it's the kind of project that can snowball into a rebuild. Maybe get a crush sleeve eliminator shim set, I hate crush sleeves...
As recommended above, the backing plates and axle seals are pretty cheap from Rock Auto.
Good luck, especially if you try to fight the seller and shipper!!!
They told me I have to submit a claim but might deny it as my VIN states I should have the 3.73 gear not the 4.30 as per OEM. I replied that all of my part searches on their site never stated I needed to purchase the same as my vehicle came from the factory with, that the 4.30 is the optional gear for the EX, and in fact the receipt sent states "Axle Assembly, Rear 4.30 RATIO - YMM Fits: 2004 FORD EXCURSION". I told them to the best of my knowledge no 2004 Excursion came with the strap style yolk, yet that is what they sent me.
I'll have to crawl underneath and do some measuring to see how far that will move the trans yolk out on the shaft. I'm guessing the plate style yolk is stronger than the strap though, but am sure they have used the strap type for heavy-duty use before w/o any real problems. Changing from the 3.73 to the 4.30 pulling my ~ 8k lb trailer should actually help in that area?
Yes going from 3.73 to 4.30 will help alot. If it helped on my 5.4 it will help your V10 even more. You will notice it more on hills where the X normally downshifted out of OD.
Just got off the phone with LKQ and they are admitting the part (rear compete axle) seems to have been mislabeled for my application and they are willing to swap it out for another. They have given me 2 VIN's to check for compatibility. Anyone know where to look to find what rear end axle came with what VIN?
LKQ online is a pain, lots of complaints. A new door I ordered for one of my Fusions was brand new, with a window sticker still on it and it had dings. They said used parts aren't perfect.
And after LKQ said they would send a pickup tag for the axle, I got a call and they now want me to ship it back before I get my full refund.
I'm tired of dealing with them and have decided to just keep the axle they sent. It is the correct one with the exception of the yolk, so I will just swap it with mine. I already have to replace the backing plates so its not like its a lot of extra work.
To do the swap, looks like I'll need the seals and the hub tool. I'll be moving the yolk, brake calipers, rotors, lines, and any mounting brackets over from my existing axle to this replacement. What might I be missing or not thinking of?
I would consider a crush sleeve eliminator. Shims are a much better way to set the pinion bearing preload than a crush sleeve. As your pinion seal was leaking I would go ahead and throw in new ones (inner and outer). Top it off with a factory finned aluminum cover!
I would consider a crush sleeve eliminator. Shims are a much better way to set the pinion bearing preload than a crush sleeve. As your pinion seal was leaking I would go ahead and throw in new ones (inner and outer). Top it off with a factory finned aluminum cover!
To properly set a new crush sleeve or use the shims, I'd have to remove the carrier. If I go that route, I might as well just had mine rebuilt. Finned diff covers do nothing for the diff due to the dead space of air behind the diff when moving forward. Those are a total waste except for the BLING factor.
To properly set a new crush sleeve or use the shims, I'd have to remove the carrier. If I go that route, I might as well just had mine rebuilt. Finned diff covers do nothing for the diff due to the dead space of air behind the diff when moving forward. Those are a total waste except for the BLING factor.
Not the OEM 08-10 diff covers, they actually cool the oil, unlike the aftermarket ones.
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