I have spent a couple of weeks immersing myself in High Pressure Oil videos and posts, hoping to fix my leak. Of course DieselTech Ron was the big influence. I opened up the passenger side oil cover first, even though I had oil all the way up to the ICP hole. I figured I would check for updated dummy plugs and there was more room in the garage on that side to work. I found the dummy plug had a semi-worn o-ring and was OE so I replaced it. Getting the valve cover off was a PIA with limited room next to the heater box, so I removed the wheel well for better access. I did this when I replaced the #5 glow plug last winter. Not too bad to do and makes it much easier. I did not pull the standpipe on that side because of the same box. Buttoned up everything and still had a hard cold start, even after cranking with the FICM disconnected to push up the oil pressure.

So off to the driver's side. Most videos seem to imply that it is easier access but I find the air filter housing to be pretty ornery every time! Now I will be better at simply removing it to change the filter. After the degas bottle dripped 1/2 a gallon of coolant all over the floor I was able to get the thing tied off out of the way. Next time I will drain the radiator some. Then out comes the FICM. Easy peasy. I decided to pull the IPR and fought with it to break it loose. Hercules must have been the last guy to work on my truck. A long hinge handle and cheater pipe finally got it to break loose along with a bit of skin off the back of my hand. I used the after market socket (from Lisle tools I think). Also required a U-Joint and short extension. The dang electrical plug retainer clip took me the better part of a half hour to figure out, since it is back there under the turbo and hard to see.

This valve must have been OE too judging from the discoloration of the metal. The screen was intact and only really tiny metal particles were present. I decided to replace it and keep the old one as a spare. EXPENSIVE! The dealer part guy cut me a break off list so I did it anyway. I don't want to be stuck somewhere because of an old valve I could have replaced. Next up was the valve cover. Off it went and I unclipped the Injector harness to keep from accidentally breaking one. I discovered OE dummy plug and an updated standpipe. Both were replaced since I had the parts. I wish they would include the small oil rail plug on the top center of the rail with the kit. I did not check the ICP dummy bolt because nobody talked about them failing. It was only afterward I found the DieselTech Ron video that shows it spewing air while leak testing. Oh well.

Then it snowed for a week and I worked like a dog plowing the mountain passes. 12 hour shifts. When I got back to the motor I had to remember where everything went, but it was not bad. Except for that evil crankcase vent hose and air cleaner assy. After I got it together I cranked with the wire under the hood for a few times, then tried it with the key. Still a hard start! @#!$% The next day I needed to drive her over to the dealer to pick up a gallon bottle of anti gel (Ford) and a jug of gold coolant concentrate. That's right, I still need to switch to ELC. One day...

After taking a really long time to start she ran fine, so I left it running outside the dealer, then took it for a 30 minute drive and parked it back in the garage, just in case I needed to open her up again. And there it sat. For three days. I figured I would have to pressurize the oil rails with air so I had picked up the necessary hose, fittings and IPR adapter. I could not begin tearing into her before I moved the truck to gain access to the attic. The Admiral wanted her Christmas decorations down NOW! So I braced myself for another cold hard start...

Good pre-clatter, chug-chug VROOM! She started like the days of old, like a scalded dog! I guess it really does take a while for the air to purge out of the system? I'm going to go out there and try again after writing this tome. Keeping my fingers crossed that it wasn't a fluke.

I love this truck. And it's paid for.

How much did they want to do this amount of work at the dealer? Somewhere between $1600-2000. And hearing the service manager say, "Our diesel tech said it's been a while since he did a 6.0 so he wants to take the cab off -- He thinks you should pull the HPOP and check it too. That could really drive up the cost." "How much?" I said. "Oh, closer to $3500." After I choked on my coffee I mumbled something unintelligible as I walked quickly out of the building. Upon exiting I stared at all the brand new DPF equipped, DEF guzzling, F350's out on the lot and said a prayer. Something like, "Lord, let me keep this truck as long as I can and I promise to clean my EGR every 20,000 miles!" There was nothing on the lot, decently equipped for less than $58 grand new. I started sweating and left the lot shaking my head. On my way out a guy pulling in sarcastically said, "Is that a 6.uh-oh?" I said, "Yeah --- MINE!"

 

I am just guessing here, but did your dealer have a sign saying Bison on it?

 

Not sure what you mean? I like the parts guy and may need the service dept. at some point so I don't want to throw them under the bus to much. : ) The last time I had the truck worked on at a different dealer they dropped a bolt in the intake and took out a piston, glow plug, valve. I got them to tear down both heads and do new gaskets with ARP studs, along with a new piston and connecting rod. They paid dearly for the mistake and the truck got more bulletproofing done. Of course when I got it back I found a few more bolts on top of the motor and a few other minor irritations. Overall they made good on the repair and kept their reputation intact. I did have to negotiate. It helped to have an imprint of the bolt in the top of the piston. Ever hear an army of dwarves with hammers under your hood? Not a pleasant sound!

 

What I meant was, we may not live to far apart, There is a Wolf Creek just down the road from here.

 

Wolf Creek is my truck camper brand. I'm next door in Idaho. I love visiting Montana, especially SW Montana, near Idaho. Lots of great camping spots.

There are lots of 6.0 trucks in Idaho that have been in continuous use. I am always on the lookout for one to pick up for a great price as a parts source. They go quick.