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Hi, I'm really a old man

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Old 12-19-2017, 04:19 PM
really ole man
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Hi, I'm really a old man

I signed up about this time last month and a few days later ended up in hospital. No big deal, just tried to cash in. I am retired and 80 years old. I've been driving Fords as longs as I've been driving. I done a lot of things so, I guess you can says, I'm a master of my own faults, I've served my country many years back and spent a little time over there. I owned a few business in my life time, and my wife and I operated most of them together.
I had a small manufacturing business in CA when you could afford to be in business, and deliver a product that a customer could use and afford, but when government decided they wanted you to pay the price for there fun and made me a tax collector I began to decided that was enough. My wife and I almost had a horse business and bred, raised, trained and showed horse for many decades. The reason I joined this ford group is that I have a problem that I can't seem to figure the caused, other than me being the mech a nik. I will cover that later. My wife of 60 years live in the northwest and are again getting ready to retire from the horse business and try some traveling while we can.
I have read many of the forums on the internet and this group seem to have the right idea. I will probably join once I get my ole truck cranking again. I bought this truck made to order on 1999, took delivery in Feb of that year.
I bought it equipped a certain way, at the time ford did not build a dually 4 door with a short bed, ( 6.5' ) so I ordered a F-350 with singles and made a few changes. I bought a set of fenders from Ford parts room at the dealer and other pieces needed. knowing the axle would be to narrow for a set of duals I made special adapters to extend the housing to fit duals. Had to bring the fuel filler inside the box at the front which was alright since I added a 100 fuel tank at the front of the box and just tapped it into the spout which came thru the floor. Naturally for what I was going to pull I needed a little more umph under the hood. I had the truck equipped with a 7.3, 6 speed, and 3.73 rear. I added a full Banks kit, including exhaust brake, engine minder and tranny cooler bigger than stock. It was quite a setup.
I now have 326K on the truck and it's still running strong, that is until recently. That's why I'm here. Hope i can get some help and give some in return. I've done 90% of the service on this truck since it was new. The only problems I ever had was a few clutches and the CPS. Which I have at least 2 in the glove box at all times.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
Rusty.
 
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:25 PM
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welcome! I enjoyed reading your post! I hope you get your pickup back running smoothly
 
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:45 PM
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Welcome to FTE, Rusty!

Tell us more about how your truck is running badly (or not at all). A good description of symptoms will help us get started down the path towards helping you figure out what to dig into.
 
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:56 PM
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Thank you, Here is a brief on my problem. Like I said in my intro. I service this truck on a regular basic. This fall, as usual I prep for winter, this year I started doing it in October, here we are in December and it's still sitting in my shop. I as usual jack up the front and change the oil, but in fall I also check all the brakes and bearings including the driveline. I left the oil drain while doing other little things. So, when I put the plug back it had been draining for about 4 hours. Clean. this is just food for thought. I replaced the oil and filter, cleaned that K&N filter, removed the battery cables and cleaned and check the condition of the anti-freeze. Everything was as it should be. So, i cranked engine to check for leaks. rev'd no problems. Let run for about 20 - 30 minutes. Was putting things away and remounting front tire. Suddenly the engine RPM dropped to about 1/2, was smooth but really slow. I went to shut down and it suddenly picked back up to normal. I sat in the drive seat and within a couple minutes the engine quit/ blam, just quit. I turned off key and cranked it back up. ran smooth, all dash indicators good. temp was normal as was oil pressure. I was about ready to step out of sit and it quit again, this time it only cranked and cranked. nothing, but did have a little smoke at exhaust. I acted a little like it wanted to start but didn't.
So, I figure dam Cam senor again. So replaced, cranked, nothing. I gave up for the night. The next day, I started a few checks that I read on line. None of which proved anything. Talked to a couple ford friends and they said, replace IPR, the one on the left head. and maybe the ?? at the bottom rear of the HPOP. I did nothing. check batteries, left on trickle tested about 12 V. So, got a new guy in this burg that has some experience with 7.3, he brought over his OBD11 unit and tested. Said i had a short on both banks at the injector and 2 glow plugs not reading. So, I check the glow plug relay. I was not reacting the same every time. SO, i installed a new one. That's about when I went into hospital for a week.
Since being back on my feet the weather has made it winter change. it's colder than cold. While sitting around I ordered a new pair of valve cover gaskets in case the wiring was shorting. I also sent my CPM or computer into a company in Midwest that could rebuild it. They called and told me it was working good and there was not problems. So that cost 125 to say it was OK. So, I ordered the two, items everyone said to check. IRP, and the solonid valve at the rear lower if the HPOP housing and replaced them. The reservoir was full, so pump out and replace it and IPR. Still no fire. today, it warmed to 39 so I went out with the idea to see how much oil pressure was at the IPR port on the head. Could find gauge so, figured first see how much oil was coming out of port. Removed IPR and cranked for 20 seconds, dada, nothing came out, looked at IRP and it was clean, no indication oil was get to it. Oops, think there's a problem. So, my thinking can a HPOP go bad suddenly or does the solonoid valve at the bottom of the HPOP relate to the IPR.?
The weather in the NW is changing and would like to get this out of shop before we get snow. I hope anyway. Thanks for the site and any help that can be forth coming.
Rusty
 
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:17 PM
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Have you pulled the dip stick to verify oil sump level? I know that comes across as a "did you plug it in" kind of question, and I'm certainly not saying that you don't know what you're doing, because it sounds like you do know. I only ask because I'm still finding that I myself have to second guess myself and double/triple check the basics many times to make sure I don't fall victim to my own increasing degree of over-confident-driven forgetfulness.

Another question like the one above would be, What is your fuel level showing in the tank? The fact that you're getting some smoke indicates the presence of fuel, but the fuel delivery pressure may be low from a tired/sick/dying fuel pump or partially plugged fuel pickup line in the tank.

Also, when you're cranking, does the tachometer needle move at all?

Here is a great link to tons of diagnostic guidelines for hard/no start 7.3's. Underneath the title "Ford Diesel Diagnostics", just click the green text where it says "94-03 7.3L Powerstroke", and it will take you down to the section which applies to your engine.

https://oregonfuelinjection.com/serv...gnostics/#1994
 
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Old 12-19-2017, 06:08 PM
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Cool

I'm the same way. Like they say, measure twice, cut once. Well, guess I forgot to measure again. I just went out and check the oil level in the HPOP Reservoir. It is empty, no dip stick, but took the 4" allen wrench and nothing when dipped it. Fuel at 7/8 tanks and about 2 months old now. Truck oil level was at mark and clear, since new.
I forgot to add to the first note. I use to additives and have since it was new. I use Lucas injector with each tank of fuel, and use ER in every oil change. Which is normally around 3 to 4K depending where I'm at, using Delco 400. I will fill HPOP and try again tomorrow. We have a storm coming in and it's beginning to rain, probably be snow by morning. Thanks for the reminder
Rusty
 
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Old 12-19-2017, 07:11 PM
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Sounds like the LPOP may be suspect if the reservoir is low. However there is a "check ball" that is supposed to keep oil in HPOP reservoir from draining back to the sump. If it gets stuck open it will take a little while to fill.
 
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Old 12-19-2017, 07:35 PM
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I don't mean to de-rail your help lines - just wanted to thank you for your service and that story. I look forward to 'seeing you around' here.
 
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Old 12-19-2017, 08:06 PM
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HPOP does sound low.

Welcome to team FTE.
 
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Old 12-19-2017, 09:29 PM
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Smile Thanks Guys,

Thanks Cuz'in Carl. seem after 80 year of life I'd ave adjusted before, but finally starting to realize it was my fault. Thanks again and for your service if you served.
I've check the HPOP and think there could be my problem. I noticed that adding oil was not filling it up. Added about 1-1/2 qts. and kept going down, Someone said there is a check valve and being my luck it's
buried down deep. When I turned on the key I could hear the fuel pump under the drivers seat, purrring. So, don't think that's my problem. Tomorrow, ( Wednesday ) I'll check some more things that have been mentioned.
Probably something I'm missing. Later guys, and Thanks tons for your help. The more brain power I get on this the quicker it will be behind me. Got to figure the rest of this site out, something new for me. Hope I can help in response to the help I've gotten so far.
Rusty
 
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Old 12-20-2017, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by really old man View Post
.....
I've check the HPOP and think there could be my problem. I noticed that adding oil was not filling it up. Added about 1-1/2 qts. and kept going down, ......
Rusty
That does sound to me that the check ball is stuck and allowing the oil to drain back out. If there isn't enough oil in the HPOP then there is no pressure to then injectors to operate them.
The oil level in there should be about 1/2 inch from the top. There is a small cap that you remove with an allen wrench. I user the same allen wrench to check just how far the oil is from the top.
An HPOP rebuild can be pricey depending on where you take it but...I believe there are a couple of posts in here I saw that showed the process to DIY.
 
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Old 12-22-2017, 05:41 PM
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Hello Guys, Check all the things F250 requested. Fuel 3/4+ , oil level, right on. Filled HPOP tank, removed pressure valve on left head and cranked until oil was coming out the port. Replaced pressure valve. Rechecked oil level, and added to top. Cranked engine after WTS lite went out. About 20 second engine fired. Ran about minute. Shut off because I could hear a miss on one or two cylinders. Need to recheck wiring to injectors. Could find anything off. Refilled HPOP. Tried to restart but only got a clicking sound like battery not grounded. Then suddenly I hear a relay clicking and the instrument lites began to flash. Figured needed to study again. Today I tried to start, only click, so battery cables. Shut off and disconnect ed cables. Left sit awhile reconnected and tried to start. It did within 30 second. Oil level good in HPOP over nite so no leak down at this point but still have a injector not firing.
 
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Old 12-22-2017, 08:16 PM
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Good to hear it is running, even if with a skip.
 
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Old 12-23-2017, 09:15 AM
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Just based on what I have read (on my evil Fruit phone) so Iím not really wanting to read in depth here but skimmed it sounds like one of four possibilities to me.


option 1: less costly, is low oil level, top it off and test

option 2: LPOP is showing signs of failure and it is time to replace it as well as any thing removed/nearby to get to it (seals, gaskets, ect)

Option 3: your fuel is bad/gelled up and needs to be replaced and while in there it is time for the H&H mod (hutch and harpoon mod) and your pick up foot may have crumbled to pieces or something similar.Option 4: (this one is less likely but has that 1% possibility so it is still mentioned) a combination of one or more of the above listed options.
 
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Old 12-23-2017, 09:43 PM
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power stroke,7.3 99

Evening guys, Well I went out when it warmed to about 40 and check the HPOP, it was full. So, no leak down. I carefully checked and rechecked all the wires going to glow plugs and injectors on both sides of the junction at the valve covers. Since I replace the ends, I double check the connection/splices. All showed good current flow. So, since I had the battery charger on, I put on 35 amp booster, and attempted to start when WTS lite went out. Cranked about 45 seconds and didn't even attempt to fire over. Ahhh crapo. I put test lite on glow plug relay to GP turned on key, suddenly no juice to plugs, but had positive side OK. Also check the front relay to intake heater, it's now not showing current either on the side to heater. Now, the fuels in good, the engine oil good, the HPOP good, Batteries OK, Recheck all the fuses in box under hood, all good. All 6 of the relays have been replaced. When key turned on you can hear the fuel pump under drivers side with door open.
Anyone have a clue.................. By the by, I'd like to wish everyone on the Site a VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS, and say Thank you all.
Rusty
 
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