Slow to build ICP
#1
Slow to build ICP
Hey guys, been a long time. I just picked up an 06 F-350 KR and am in process of doing some updates/upgrades and tests and such and wanted some opinions.
1st..did a test drive and ECT AND EOT were 20 degrees apart. Cold soak on the sensors were within 2 degrees. Ok an oil cooler no big deal.
On cold start in the morning temp appx 40 degrees i was watching ICP, IPR, FMP, and ICV. On cranking ICP was slow to build up to 500 psi to start and i observed IPR hit 70% or so. FMP, FVP, and FLP all stayed rock solid at 48v and 12.5-13.5v.
This would only happen when doing a cold start mind you, and the rest of the day, it started with no issues.
I went ahead and ordered the oil cooler and all gaskets I would need from WBL and then proceeded to do a flush. I removed the thermostat after draining all the coolant, which was Ford gold I think, installed a Fumoto valve in the drivers side and got down to it. 1st flush was with Restore and 2nd was VC9. I used a total of 54 gallons of distilled and am pleased with the results. Pics of the flush are below.
Next I started to remove parts to get to the oil cooler and such and decided to check under the valve covers for stand pipes and dummy plugs. Upon removing both valve covers i reached over to the 4mm oil rail test port on both sides and they were easily removed with fingers. I also noted that the O-ring on the passenger side was just about gone. That pic is also below.
I noted that the dummy plugs were updated but the stand pipes were not. I removed the ICP sensor on the passenger valve cover and could not see the oil level in the rail. I then removed the Pass dummy plug to see the oil level was just above the bottom O-ring where the taper goes to the flat section of the dummy plug. I also removed the drivers side dummy plug and the oil level was full on that side. Another thing I noted was the teflon backer for the dummy plug on both sides was kind of layering on itself and I am not sure if this could be the possible cause of the passenger side leaking down or maybe the oil rail plug o-ring that was the culprit. Here is a pic of what I am referring to. Note the shape of the orings as well new one on left and old on right.
I went ahead and changed the dummy plugs since i had the parts and the drivers side standpipe to the updated, but haven't had time to do the pass side since that is a pita to do.(im thinking maybe just the top section)
I did an air test and could hear zero leaks when i energized the ipr. In hindsight I wish I would have done the air test before replacing anything, but oh well.
I also removed the HPOP cover and the pump DOES have the updated STC fitting, but i may just pull it and reseal since the cover is off.
The history on the truck is just basically 2 rear main seals done at a dealer, which is leaking again, #4 injector 5k miles ago and #3 glowplug. Other than that it has been dealer serviced at regular intervals.
So the question is: Would the oil rail test plug o-ring cause the passenger side rail to leak down so the engine is slow to build icp or could it be the dummy plug? Anyone have any similar leak such as this?
Thanks for your anticipated replies and thanks for the site and all the help you guys give.
Edit: I just pulled the oil cooler and there is no screen at all.
1st..did a test drive and ECT AND EOT were 20 degrees apart. Cold soak on the sensors were within 2 degrees. Ok an oil cooler no big deal.
On cold start in the morning temp appx 40 degrees i was watching ICP, IPR, FMP, and ICV. On cranking ICP was slow to build up to 500 psi to start and i observed IPR hit 70% or so. FMP, FVP, and FLP all stayed rock solid at 48v and 12.5-13.5v.
This would only happen when doing a cold start mind you, and the rest of the day, it started with no issues.
I went ahead and ordered the oil cooler and all gaskets I would need from WBL and then proceeded to do a flush. I removed the thermostat after draining all the coolant, which was Ford gold I think, installed a Fumoto valve in the drivers side and got down to it. 1st flush was with Restore and 2nd was VC9. I used a total of 54 gallons of distilled and am pleased with the results. Pics of the flush are below.
Next I started to remove parts to get to the oil cooler and such and decided to check under the valve covers for stand pipes and dummy plugs. Upon removing both valve covers i reached over to the 4mm oil rail test port on both sides and they were easily removed with fingers. I also noted that the O-ring on the passenger side was just about gone. That pic is also below.
I noted that the dummy plugs were updated but the stand pipes were not. I removed the ICP sensor on the passenger valve cover and could not see the oil level in the rail. I then removed the Pass dummy plug to see the oil level was just above the bottom O-ring where the taper goes to the flat section of the dummy plug. I also removed the drivers side dummy plug and the oil level was full on that side. Another thing I noted was the teflon backer for the dummy plug on both sides was kind of layering on itself and I am not sure if this could be the possible cause of the passenger side leaking down or maybe the oil rail plug o-ring that was the culprit. Here is a pic of what I am referring to. Note the shape of the orings as well new one on left and old on right.
I went ahead and changed the dummy plugs since i had the parts and the drivers side standpipe to the updated, but haven't had time to do the pass side since that is a pita to do.(im thinking maybe just the top section)
I did an air test and could hear zero leaks when i energized the ipr. In hindsight I wish I would have done the air test before replacing anything, but oh well.
I also removed the HPOP cover and the pump DOES have the updated STC fitting, but i may just pull it and reseal since the cover is off.
The history on the truck is just basically 2 rear main seals done at a dealer, which is leaking again, #4 injector 5k miles ago and #3 glowplug. Other than that it has been dealer serviced at regular intervals.
So the question is: Would the oil rail test plug o-ring cause the passenger side rail to leak down so the engine is slow to build icp or could it be the dummy plug? Anyone have any similar leak such as this?
Thanks for your anticipated replies and thanks for the site and all the help you guys give.
Edit: I just pulled the oil cooler and there is no screen at all.
Last edited by daddykitty; 12-22-2016 at 06:18 PM. Reason: more info
#3
#4
The overlapped dummy plug Teflon didn't hurt anything. That's there to keep the o-ring from sliding or moving out of position.
The 4mm plug being loose is an issue, like holding your finger over a straw, fluid doesn't escape until you move your finger. The rail is draining while sitting overnight and takes a little extra time to fill and purge the air each first start... normal the rest of the day. Fix that and that should fix your issue.
The 4mm plug being loose is an issue, like holding your finger over a straw, fluid doesn't escape until you move your finger. The rail is draining while sitting overnight and takes a little extra time to fill and purge the air each first start... normal the rest of the day. Fix that and that should fix your issue.
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hucka1a
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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12-30-2008 05:40 PM