When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ok how in the hell do you get the plug "boot" off after you break it? Those things are so brittle I broke 3 out of the 4, haven't even gotten to the other side
I tried taking and awl to one of them and it kept breaking, to the point once it broke the o-ring it slid down the plug grrrrr.
self taping screw but you have to get screwed in were the wire goes or in this case went in.
option 2 remove valve cover and injectors, buy noew harness and new o-ring kits for the injectors
Threads like this are the exact reason why I always quote a new glow plug harness into the repair estimate on any truck that comes into my bay, needing access to the glow plugs for any reason. For what they cost, it's not even worth the effort to even think of trying to save them. 9 times out of 10, they end up leaking oil through them if you re-use them.
Do they make the bar type for the early trucks anymore, or if you order a new one do you get the newer loom type anyways?
I just did a set of head studs on a 2003 truck about two months ago on a fellow member's truck from Upstate New York. His was very rusted out, so I replaced both of them with new, during the head stud install. And yes, they were the black painted buss bar type (part numbers 3C3Z-12A690-AA and 3C3Z-12A690-BA if I remember them correctly).
Threads like this are the exact reason why I always quote a new glow plug harness into the repair estimate on any truck that comes into my bay, needing access to the glow plugs for any reason. For what they cost, it's not even worth the effort to even think of trying to save them. 9 times out of 10, they end up leaking oil through them if you re-use them.
Exactly what I did when I had studs installed. I also replaced the glow plugs just because they were cheap.
self taping screw but you have to get screwed in were the wire goes or in this case went in.
option 2 remove valve cover and injectors, buy noew harness and new o-ring kits for the injectors
I ran into that issue as well... I had the valve covers off but left the injectors... If yo have a SMALL 90degree pick... You can go between the rocker carrier assembly and where the injector hold down clamp... YOU CAN pry from the inside and POP goes the weasel!!!!!!!!!!!! Another tip is squirt some WD-40 or other penetrant on the outer side of the glow plug harness and as you wiggle from the inside... They WILL get looser and will come out.....
I have done it, and it works!!!!!!!!!!! I personally think its easier than fighting with the tool on the outside.... for all it takes to get the covers off.... I saved both my harnesses...
self taping screw but you have to get screwed in were the wire goes or in this case went in.
option 2 remove valve cover and injectors, buy noew harness and new o-ring kits for the injectors
So you ran a self tapper into the wire hole and then used a needle nose pliers or something to wiggle out the round tip of the hareness connector?
I'm having same issue with cylinder #1(drivers side), even though I used the special hareness tool the head of the connector still broke off. The wire also broke off and I'm left with the head of the hareness connector stuck in the cover. I got the connector start to wiggle up a little and then the rest of the wire broke off. I'm not looking to remove the valve cover if possible but who knows.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.