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Couple questions for the masses.
1) My NSS was not hooked up, found the connector under the dash with a jumper my dad made, removed the jumper and plugged the NSS in and it did not work! Figured that's why my pops made the jumper. Upon further testing, I can move the button on the NSS and the truck will start. How is the switch suppose to move to the correct contact position? Is there a piece missing in my puzzle. There is a hole in the column bu the switch but I don't see how to make it work. Pictured added of actal switch on the column.
2) Digging under the hood, found the wire harness for the regulator is not connected and has not been for many years from the looks of it, but the truck doesn't have any charging issues that I am aware of. How do I test this?
Thanks for entertaining my questions and I look forward to the answers/ tips/ tricks! NSS switch. What moves the ****? Regulator wires.
Like Bill said, there's a selector lever that clips to the shift tube that actuates the neutral start switch.
The part number you need is D0TZ-7B097-B Lever, transmission control selector neutral
Dennis Carpenter, Concord, NC has 62 (704) 786-8139
The first thing to check for the charging system is, with the engine running, what is the voltage at the battery?
If it's 13.5v to 14.5v your alternator is working, and it may have been replaced with a later model internally regulated alternator. Or even perhaps a "1-wire" alternator that needs only the one connection to the battery.
Post up a pic of the alternator and we may be able to tell just from looking at it what it is.
Oh, and while you're testing wires with your volt-meter, check that Yellow wire that's loose next to the regulator connector. If it's still connected at the other end it's hot all the time and could short out on the metal it looks like it might touch.
If it's touching and has not sparked already, there's a good chance it was disconnected at the other end. But it's still worth checking!
Oh, and while you're testing wires with your volt-meter, check that Yellow wire that's loose next to the regulator connector. If it's still connected at the other end it's hot all the time and could short out on the metal it looks like it might touch.
If it's touching and has not sparked already, there's a good chance it was disconnected at the other end. But it's still worth checking!
Paul
Upon further testing with the multi meter today, the battery was at 12.2v and when started dropped to 11.7. Put the wire into the harness and plugged it into the regulator and started it again. Now 13.9v going to the battery. All is good now with that. As for the NSS, I got the piece off of the shift linkage and need to order a replacement part.
A success! Nice going.
At 13.9 you can check it under different conditions just to make sure everything is working properly and the alternator is in good shape.
Next time you're running and have the meter handy, check the battery voltage at different rpm levels, and then turn on all the goodies inside. Heater on high, high beams on, hazard flashers, anything you can think of.
If the voltage stays above 13.5 you're in pretty good shape. If it reaches into the mid-14's, you're golden.
If it's an original style alternator (commonly referred to as a small-case 1G) you might find your voltage dropping at idle with all the accessories running. But if revving the engine (say above 1500 rpm) makes the voltage go back up into the 14's, it's working as expected.
A success! Nice going.
At 13.9 you can check it under different conditions just to make sure everything is working properly and the alternator is in good shape.
Next time you're running and have the meter handy, check the battery voltage at different rpm levels, and then turn on all the goodies inside. Heater on high, high beams on, hazard flashers, anything you can think of.
If the voltage stays above 13.5 you're in pretty good shape. If it reaches into the mid-14's, you're golden.
If it's an original style alternator (commonly referred to as a small-case 1G) you might find your voltage dropping at idle with all the accessories running. But if revving the engine (say above 1500 rpm) makes the voltage go back up into the 14's, it's working as expected.
Paul
At Idle it was pushing 13.5 (multi meter probes are on the battery posts for reference) and was climbing .1 at a time. I upped the idle a little and watched the meter go up as well. I did not however turn any of the accessories on, just let it sit for a bit and idle. Thanks for all the inputs and advice!
The alternator output has to be tested while energized or under load, because ... because that's what they do, power lights and accessories &c. cruising down the road, voltage output at idle and no load isn't meaningful or at best only a small part of the equation. Sort of like a failing battery that will measure 13 volts across the posts, but then choke down to 8 volts when any sort of load is placed on it.
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