1989 f250
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1989 f250
Hi all....
ok so now that i got all the coolant leaks fixed i still have no heat...
the heater hoses are both hot wen engine is at tenp, new thermostat in...
upper radiator hose is hot...
i think the temp cable is part of issue, an i have no vacuum on the heater door on pass side in engine compartment...i did take vac line off it an sucked an it moves so diaphrsm is good...
where does manifold vac come thru into cab?
also wen i use select swicth from a/c, to vent, to heater, to defrost it do thump an flap...still no heat...
im thinkin its the cable on slider...
sound bout right?
so where is the actual switch, i really do not want to dismantle the dash?
im thinkin of opening it manually an just leave 4 now
any ideas welcome...
ghiaguy
ok so now that i got all the coolant leaks fixed i still have no heat...
the heater hoses are both hot wen engine is at tenp, new thermostat in...
upper radiator hose is hot...
i think the temp cable is part of issue, an i have no vacuum on the heater door on pass side in engine compartment...i did take vac line off it an sucked an it moves so diaphrsm is good...
where does manifold vac come thru into cab?
also wen i use select swicth from a/c, to vent, to heater, to defrost it do thump an flap...still no heat...
im thinkin its the cable on slider...
sound bout right?
so where is the actual switch, i really do not want to dismantle the dash?
im thinkin of opening it manually an just leave 4 now
any ideas welcome...
ghiaguy
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Joined: Feb 2017
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Heater issue
wen i put selector on vent its hot...just found that out as i drove 100 miles round trip to town...
also i have ruled out cable as it was cold at cold setting, then got warm wen bak all way to right on slide control...
i guess it a vac issue on the door...under/behind the dash of course!!!!
so i guess i can manually move door open for now an ck vacuum lines later...
also wen i was driving up the few hills i noticed major power loss, an one other thing...
cruise control wont kik trans down either.
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,605
Likes: 5,629
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
there is a door under the dash that opens and closes to let air through the heater core, or not. this blend door can very easily get jammed by crap that has fallen down the defroster ducts over the past 30 years.
if the door does not close completely, you will not get heat.
to find it, look under the dash on top of the heater plenum while someone moves the heat control from hot to cold. the cable attaches to the door lever on top of the plenum.
i usually remove the heater core and reach in and clean out the box to ensure full movement of the door.
i have pulled pens, pencils, kids toys, and probably $100.00 worth of coins out of blend door tracks over the years.
if the door does not close completely, you will not get heat.
to find it, look under the dash on top of the heater plenum while someone moves the heat control from hot to cold. the cable attaches to the door lever on top of the plenum.
i usually remove the heater core and reach in and clean out the box to ensure full movement of the door.
i have pulled pens, pencils, kids toys, and probably $100.00 worth of coins out of blend door tracks over the years.
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Heater door
there is a door under the dash that opens and closes to let air through the heater core, or not. this blend door can very easily get jammed by crap that has fallen down the defroster ducts over the past 30 years.
if the door does not close completely, you will not get heat.
to find it, look under the dash on top of the heater plenum while someone moves the heat control from hot to cold. the cable attaches to the door lever on top of the plenum.
i usually remove the heater core and reach in and clean out the box to ensure full movement of the door.
i have pulled pens, pencils, kids toys, and probably $100.00 worth of coins out of blend door tracks over the years.
if the door does not close completely, you will not get heat.
to find it, look under the dash on top of the heater plenum while someone moves the heat control from hot to cold. the cable attaches to the door lever on top of the plenum.
i usually remove the heater core and reach in and clean out the box to ensure full movement of the door.
i have pulled pens, pencils, kids toys, and probably $100.00 worth of coins out of blend door tracks over the years.
that figures...
so my next question is how do i remove the dash panel to get to...cant find any screws...
u can tell ive not been into many dash panels...lol
just engine compartments an underneath...
do i pry the wood panel off first?
pics of dash
thx
ghiaguy
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,605
Likes: 5,629
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
you do not need to do anything with the dash.
easiest way is to remove the glove box door. open it, and push the sides in and the stops on each side will slip around the dash.(i think) there may be cable on the side screwed to the dash, i can't remember. then you can remove the 4 or 6 screws in the hinge holding the glove box door to the dash.
once the glove box and door are out of the way, you can look along the top of the heater plenum and see the heat blend door lever where the cable is attached.
you can remove the cable and work the lever by hand to see if it will travel as far as the cable end does when you turn the ****.
my bet is the blend door lever will only move about half way.
to access the inside of the box, look straight through the glove box door opening. you will see a cover with 4 or 6 screws. remove the screws and cover and you will see the radiator core.
now go under the hood. mark the heater hoses as to which nipple they go on, so you put them back in the proper places on reassembly. remove the heater hoses from the core nipples coming out of the firewall, and stick the hoses in the hood hinge. there is no need to drain the radiator as the hinge is higher than the radiator, so you will only loose about 1 pint of coolant.
now go back inside the truck and remove the heater core.
with the core out, you can then look in and see the door and what is keeping it from closing all the way.
the last truck i did this too went from almost no heat at all to having to drive with the windows open, because it took me a week to get a replacement control panel after they broke it trying to force it to heat position
easiest way is to remove the glove box door. open it, and push the sides in and the stops on each side will slip around the dash.(i think) there may be cable on the side screwed to the dash, i can't remember. then you can remove the 4 or 6 screws in the hinge holding the glove box door to the dash.
once the glove box and door are out of the way, you can look along the top of the heater plenum and see the heat blend door lever where the cable is attached.
you can remove the cable and work the lever by hand to see if it will travel as far as the cable end does when you turn the ****.
my bet is the blend door lever will only move about half way.
to access the inside of the box, look straight through the glove box door opening. you will see a cover with 4 or 6 screws. remove the screws and cover and you will see the radiator core.
now go under the hood. mark the heater hoses as to which nipple they go on, so you put them back in the proper places on reassembly. remove the heater hoses from the core nipples coming out of the firewall, and stick the hoses in the hood hinge. there is no need to drain the radiator as the hinge is higher than the radiator, so you will only loose about 1 pint of coolant.
now go back inside the truck and remove the heater core.
with the core out, you can then look in and see the door and what is keeping it from closing all the way.
the last truck i did this too went from almost no heat at all to having to drive with the windows open, because it took me a week to get a replacement control panel after they broke it trying to force it to heat position
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Glove box an heater door
you do not need to do anything with the dash.
easiest way is to remove the glove box door. open it, and push the sides in and the stops on each side will slip around the dash.(i think) there may be cable on the side screwed to the dash, i can't remember. then you can remove the 4 or 6 screws in the hinge holding the glove box door to the dash.
once the glove box and door are out of the way, you can look along the top of the heater plenum and see the heat blend door lever where the cable is attached.
you can remove the cable and work the lever by hand to see if it will travel as far as the cable end does when you turn the ****.
my bet is the blend door lever will only move about half way.
to access the inside of the box, look straight through the glove box door opening. you will see a cover with 4 or 6 screws. remove the screws and cover and you will see the radiator core.
now go under the hood. mark the heater hoses as to which nipple they go on, so you put them back in the proper places on reassembly. remove the heater hoses from the core nipples coming out of the firewall, and stick the hoses in the hood hinge. there is no need to drain the radiator as the hinge is higher than the radiator, so you will only loose about 1 pint of coolant.
now go back inside the truck and remove the heater core.
with the core out, you can then look in and see the door and what is keeping it from closing all the way.
the last truck i did this too went from almost no heat at all to having to drive with the windows open, because it took me a week to get a replacement control panel after they broke it trying to force it to heat position
easiest way is to remove the glove box door. open it, and push the sides in and the stops on each side will slip around the dash.(i think) there may be cable on the side screwed to the dash, i can't remember. then you can remove the 4 or 6 screws in the hinge holding the glove box door to the dash.
once the glove box and door are out of the way, you can look along the top of the heater plenum and see the heat blend door lever where the cable is attached.
you can remove the cable and work the lever by hand to see if it will travel as far as the cable end does when you turn the ****.
my bet is the blend door lever will only move about half way.
to access the inside of the box, look straight through the glove box door opening. you will see a cover with 4 or 6 screws. remove the screws and cover and you will see the radiator core.
now go under the hood. mark the heater hoses as to which nipple they go on, so you put them back in the proper places on reassembly. remove the heater hoses from the core nipples coming out of the firewall, and stick the hoses in the hood hinge. there is no need to drain the radiator as the hinge is higher than the radiator, so you will only loose about 1 pint of coolant.
now go back inside the truck and remove the heater core.
with the core out, you can then look in and see the door and what is keeping it from closing all the way.
the last truck i did this too went from almost no heat at all to having to drive with the windows open, because it took me a week to get a replacement control panel after they broke it trying to force it to heat position
tj ty!!!
i will do this soon as it stops snowing an warms up in a few days...its winy an very chilly now... unfortunaely i have no sheltrr here on ranch yet... work in progress ya kno?? Lol
ghiaguy
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akramer1977
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Dec 16, 2005 01:18 PM