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This particular example only needs 1.5mm clearance behind the gear, or roughly .060". No experience with this brand, as it may be a cheap knock-off, but I wanted to show the general idea.
Honestly, since I don't make a living at this, most of my tools are cheap knock offs ... some works... others hmmmm
When I was pulling the pilot bearing, I found a harbor freight tool I had bought ... still new in the box ... dated 1997 ... just for pulling pilot bearings! I was living in SC at the time ... think it might have been a door crash special when they opened the store there.
I ended up having to grind down the jaws a bit to make if fit but worked great!
Awesome idea for the puller !!!!!!!!!
I will definitely need to add that to the tool box.
Anyway ... holes drilled and tapped ... just had to remember to drill a larger hole when tapping cast iron (checked my thread chart ... J rather then an F for 5/16-18 in stainless or cast iron).
Now outside into the cold to get this thing put back together and in.
Honestly, since I don't make a living at this, most of my tools are cheap knock offs ... some works... others hmmmm
When I was pulling the pilot bearing, I found a harbor freight tool I had bought ... still new in the box ... dated 1997 ... just for pulling pilot bearings! I was living in SC at the time ... think it might have been a door crash special when they opened the store there.
I ended up having to grind down the jaws a bit to make if fit but worked great!
Awesome idea for the puller !!!!!!!!!
I will definitely need to add that to the tool box.
Anyway ... holes drilled and tapped ... just had to remember to drill a larger hole when tapping cast iron (checked my thread chart ... J rather then an F for 5/16-18 in stainless or cast iron).
Now outside into the cold to get this thing put back together and in.
Thanks .... Mike
For pilot bearings you can use wheel bearing grease or bread and a hard wood dal ground to fit tight to the bearing.
Pack the bearing with grease or bread and hammer in the wood. You may need to re-pack the bearing as it gets pushed out.
I don't have a puller for them and I use the grease to remove them.
I got to ask why did you need to change out the gears as I have never heard of them going bad.
Dave ----
My last engine that spun a bearing had 250K on it.
Who knows how many miles on this engine from the wrecks ... it is 33 years old.
The gears in my last engine were very worn ... a lot of backlash in them.
Since the engine is out, I decided to put new gaskets (and these were very dry and brittle) ... new oil pump ... gears .... clutch .... anything I could think of (short of rebuilding the engine) that is easy with the engine out.
I got to ask why did you need to change out the gears as I have never heard of them going bad.
Dave ----
Ford used a fiber cam gear which will fail.....on my 89 F250 it failed just before 50K on engine rebuild(engine re-builder said he put steel timing set in.....wrong!)
I have a post up in another area but maybe you can help with the question ....
What did you do for gaskets?
Everyone is saying to install the dry.
I am going to do this on the cork ones (oil pan, galley, valve cover) .... but what about on the timing gear cover, water pump, gas pump and thermostat where you have paper gaskets?
Do you use permatex on one side ... both sides .... or nothing ????
I wouldn't install those dry, want to circle around coolant passages and keep the oil where it belongs too. I would think the "Right Stuff" is OK, coat both sides sparingly, don't need much. Finger tight for an hour, then torque to spec.
I know they say it's good to go and put in service after 90 minutes, and maybe it is, but old habits die hard. I always wait at least overnight or a full 24 hours and then add the coolant etc. When it comes to stuff that can potentially leak, don't get in a hurry or half-*** it.
I would do permatex on both sides of paper gaskets and a little bead of RTV in the corns of the oil pan & cover.
The permatex will also hold the gaskets in place till you get the parts installed.
Dave ----
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