Help please
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Help please
I have a 2006 6.0. It has stage 2 turbo, intercooler, 150cc injectors, blue spring kit, new hpop, replaced ficm, glow plug module, studded and deleted. Cranks but no start. Today I changed the oil/fuel filter housing and saw one of the injector fuel lines running to the passenger side head was kinked. Last few day I have had plenty of icp but today wouldnt build higher than 350 psi. Only codes that are coming up are glow plug 2,4,8 open circuit and the p0100 code. Would the fuel line be causing my headache? All the ficm reading are in range battery brand new. I'm lost someone please help.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
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From: Houston, Texas
Where are you located? If it's real cold, you might need those glow plugs fixed. The kinked fuel line is going to the odd numbered cylinders, if that has anything to do with anything. Your say "battery," are both new, have they been load-tested? Are you getting at least 150RPMs? If that kink starved the passenger side injectors, some of them might be burnt up. Did you do a bubble test to check for leaky injectors? BTW, I've screwed up a lot of trucks, but I've not kinked a fuel line yet. Do you think you've "unkinked" it? None of that sounds good. I'd be down at the Pick-u-Part place getting another fuel line asap.
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The battery are good have been checked. I have not had a chance to do a fair test yet and I dont think it was all the way closed from the looks of it just wasn't wide open. I know what u mean been calling around and due to working 10 hour days and 2 hour drive one way dont have time so sending the wife to the ford house to get one tom. I'm in west texas now so not too bad and only working on it when I have a chance haven't been driving it in cold weather.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Houston, Texas
Dang, dealership will gouge you on that part. They got me for $8 a piece on some 1" 10mm bolts this week. Yeah, shame that there's so many of those fuel lines tossed away on old engines, but the dismantlers don't inventory those separately.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Roebuck, SC
There are a lot more knowledgeable folks on here other than me, but If you aren't getting any more than 350psi HPO it won't start. It takes 500psi to start if I'm not mistaken. I've had a standpipe o ring blow out and nipple seals fail, both resulted in low HPO and the truck wouldn't start.
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Laughing Gas
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There are a lot more knowledgeable folks on here other than me, but If you aren't getting any more than 350psi HPO it won't start. It takes 500psi to start if I'm not mistaken. I've had a standpipe o ring blow out and nipple seals fail, both resulted in low HPO and the truck wouldn't start.
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There are a lot more knowledgeable folks on here other than me, but If you aren't getting any more than 350psi HPO it won't start. It takes 500psi to start if I'm not mistaken. I've had a standpipe o ring blow out and nipple seals fail, both resulted in low HPO and the truck wouldn't start.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Houston, Texas
The stand pipes and dummy plugs are pretty straightforward - they're right under the valve covers. I know the dummy plugs come out without taking out the oil rail, but I think you have to take the rail off to get the standpipes. Maybe that's the two-piece standpipes.
And if you're taking the oil rails off, the nipple o'rings are on the bottom side. They take a special socket though, IIRC, and a breaker bar and biceps.
SYK, the crowd here would prefer you identify exactly where your leak is and just fix that, rather than just replacing parts.
And if you're taking the oil rails off, the nipple o'rings are on the bottom side. They take a special socket though, IIRC, and a breaker bar and biceps.
SYK, the crowd here would prefer you identify exactly where your leak is and just fix that, rather than just replacing parts.
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