2000 CCLB build thread
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,354
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I got fed up with TP after building the custom PID's and then having to reset and reload them a few times to get it working right. That was on one device and when I started using a couple of different devices I went to FSL and have not looked back.
TP is good if you need something pretty and able to customize the gauges. For me though, an OBDII scan tool and interface about what the tool can do for me and provide to me on a reliable basis. The tests and features integrated into FSL are just a bonus.
For $5, I am very happy with FSL and try to tell me about my experiences, others experiences and let them decide for themselves. My application is not the same as everyone else and I am OK with that. I just want that individual to be able to make the most informed and detailed decision they possibly can.
TP is good if you need something pretty and able to customize the gauges. For me though, an OBDII scan tool and interface about what the tool can do for me and provide to me on a reliable basis. The tests and features integrated into FSL are just a bonus.
For $5, I am very happy with FSL and try to tell me about my experiences, others experiences and let them decide for themselves. My application is not the same as everyone else and I am OK with that. I just want that individual to be able to make the most informed and detailed decision they possibly can.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 217
Likes: 43
From: Edgewood NM
Well I am still having fuel pressure issues. I put in a new spring in the regulator and cleaned it all up, verified the sender was correct with an actual gauge, and have replaced the fuel pump with a spare I had laying around. While messing with the other gauge, it appeared to drop so much after my drive home. I just hooked up the gauge in the Autozone parking lot to verify. After that the pressure would hold pretty steady with a load. Didnt really go below 30, but it also wasn't above 40 at all like it used to be.
Can the screens in the tank really be THAT clogged? I am trying my best to not drop the tank, but it looks inevitable.
Can the screens in the tank really be THAT clogged? I am trying my best to not drop the tank, but it looks inevitable.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,860
Likes: 2,335
From: WV
Did you just do a new spring or the FPR rebuild kit? You really need the rebuild kit if it’s low.
Not sure about your screens but they can get nasty. As Sous mentioned earlier you can try back blowing the line for some temporary relief and at least test the theory. Be sure your fuel cap is off. The line comes off the pump easily.
Not sure about your screens but they can get nasty. As Sous mentioned earlier you can try back blowing the line for some temporary relief and at least test the theory. Be sure your fuel cap is off. The line comes off the pump easily.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 217
Likes: 43
From: Edgewood NM
Did you just do a new spring or the FPR rebuild kit? You really need the rebuild kit if it’s low.
Not sure about your screens but they can get nasty. As Sous mentioned earlier you can try back blowing the line for some temporary relief and at least test the theory. Be sure your fuel cap is off. The line comes off the pump easily.
Not sure about your screens but they can get nasty. As Sous mentioned earlier you can try back blowing the line for some temporary relief and at least test the theory. Be sure your fuel cap is off. The line comes off the pump easily.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,860
Likes: 2,335
From: WV
Here’s a link to the part. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...ild-kit-99-03/
Edit: didn’t know there was a Dorman kit for this. Is there? The two kits I’ve put in were the linked OEM version. Like you, I hate to wait for the parts to come all the way across the country. But I also don’t always have great luck with Dorman stuff. Seems hit or miss. The Dorman rear diff cover was fine though. Lol
Because racetruck
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 104
From: Monterey Bay, CA
You want to stay OEM on this kit. As most stuff Dorman makes this lot from this is terrible when I used it. I would either get it from Riffraff or go to Ford.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,860
Likes: 2,335
From: WV
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 217
Likes: 43
From: Edgewood NM
If it leaks around the seat then you’ll lose pressure. Someone else on here just went through a rebuild too. I’m no expert but I’d guess the sealing at the seat is more likely to go bad than the spring.
Here’s a link to the part. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...ild-kit-99-03/
Edit: didn’t know there was a Dorman kit for this. Is there? The two kits I’ve put in were the linked OEM version. Like you, I hate to wait for the parts to come all the way across the country. But I also don’t always have great luck with Dorman stuff. Seems hit or miss. The Dorman rear diff cover was fine though. Lol
Here’s a link to the part. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...ild-kit-99-03/
Edit: didn’t know there was a Dorman kit for this. Is there? The two kits I’ve put in were the linked OEM version. Like you, I hate to wait for the parts to come all the way across the country. But I also don’t always have great luck with Dorman stuff. Seems hit or miss. The Dorman rear diff cover was fine though. Lol
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...pressure&pos=0
Me too lol. I wish I could price shop them without having to call. From my limited experience, Riffraff is close/better on prices even with an account with Ford.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
There is a Dorman kit lol.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...pressure&pos=0
Good to know. Thank you.
Me too lol. I wish I could price shop them without having to call. From my limited experience, Riffraff is close/better on prices even with an account with Ford.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...pressure&pos=0
Good to know. Thank you.
Me too lol. I wish I could price shop them without having to call. From my limited experience, Riffraff is close/better on prices even with an account with Ford.
Like duck fan said - The FPR spring is never the problem, but the seals on the piston(s) in FPR are often the problem these days.
The dorman option sucks. I used one in a pinch recently for my truck. Even if it didn’t give me 80psi as supplied, it is grossly inferior in quality. Get a Motorcraft FPR.
You can’t hurt anything blowing back into the tank from the fuel pump inlet.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,354
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
If you blow compressed air into the tank from the pump inlet, be sure to remove the tank on the cap first so the air has an escape path. This is a temporary fix we sometimes recommend in order to get people where they are going and/or until they are able to source reliable parts.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 217
Likes: 43
From: Edgewood NM
Yes, The screens in the tank can absolutely cause this problem. BUT, with clogged in-tank screens we often see good pressure that builds slowly and is easily drawn down with throttle.
Like duck fan said - The FPR spring is never the problem, but the seals on the piston(s) in FPR are often the problem these days.
The dorman option sucks. I used one in a pinch recently for my truck. Even if it didn’t give me 80psi as supplied, it is grossly inferior in quality. Get a Motorcraft FPR.
You can’t hurt anything blowing back into the tank from the fuel pump inlet.
Like duck fan said - The FPR spring is never the problem, but the seals on the piston(s) in FPR are often the problem these days.
The dorman option sucks. I used one in a pinch recently for my truck. Even if it didn’t give me 80psi as supplied, it is grossly inferior in quality. Get a Motorcraft FPR.
You can’t hurt anything blowing back into the tank from the fuel pump inlet.
Thanks for the help guys. This forum is the best one I'm a part of. Lots of active members with a lot of great advice and experience.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 217
Likes: 43
From: Edgewood NM
If you blow compressed air into the tank from the pump inlet, be sure to remove the tank on the cap first so the air has an escape path. This is a temporary fix we sometimes recommend in order to get people where they are going and/or until they are able to source reliable parts.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 217
Likes: 43
From: Edgewood NM
Well I finished up the FPR rebuild. It's running 76 psi at idle. Is this too much? I put the gold spring in from the upgrade kit. Supposed to only be 62. Is that because its measured pre filter?
It is noticeably quieter. My wife and I were able to carry on a conversation without having to elevate our voices. Radio would usually have to be at 28 volume on my stereo. We were able to keep it around 20. This makes me feel better about taking my family on longer road trips with the camper. I was afraid it was going to get real old, real fast.
It is noticeably quieter. My wife and I were able to carry on a conversation without having to elevate our voices. Radio would usually have to be at 28 volume on my stereo. We were able to keep it around 20. This makes me feel better about taking my family on longer road trips with the camper. I was afraid it was going to get real old, real fast.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,860
Likes: 2,335
From: WV
I had the same issue when trying to run the gold spring. Don’t remember exactly the pressure but it was too high. I changed back to the “stock” silver spring (from the spring kit) while putting in the FPR rebuild and it’s still up around 72psi. I would go back to the spring that came with the FPR kit is I were you.
edit: great news about the noise improvements!
edit: great news about the noise improvements!