So it's been a few months. I duct tape the chip into the PCM back in early April. It helped.....for a while. Back in May it started doing it again. Very few and far between. I would be logging for hundreds of miles without a hiccup. Then when Im on a short drive, it happens. I'm not sure the logging would have helped anyway, because it would almost be like I turned the ignition off and back on. The WTS light would illuminate and all.

It did it in my driveway one morning, so I reached down and put a little pressure on the top edge of the chip. She came back to life. I pulled the PCM out at work last week and made sure I cleaned all of the silicone off. I used the brass wire brush only and didnt remove the tin. I left the tape off also. My hydra wire was rubbing on a portion of the solder things( unsure of proper name right now) and thru the insulation a little. I put electrical tape one the chip solder and the hydra wire. Fingers crossed on this one. I think it's the permanent fix though. I was too ginger the 1st time around.

Since this truck has been layed over, I have gaps in the door jambs on the passenger doors. I have tried adjusting them and was successful on the rear. I had to take my file and elongate some bolt holes, but it worked and closes nice and tight to the cab. The drivers door is another story. I elongated the too holes today, but it messed with the geometry and the door would hit the rear and not hit the striker. I put it all back and tried to pull the hinges off completely, but cant do it without removing the door. At this point, I've decided to just double up the weatherstripping and get a seal. I used the correct method when adjusting also, and got the top as far over as I could. I need to elongate the holes on the bottom hinge, but I need to pull the door to do it. That's where I decided to go to the weatherstripping. I'll see how that works. It's cheap enough. Plus I dont want to get into another mess trying to put the door back on.

Truck runs dang good though. 7500' up in the clouds. 140 tune, and I cant hit 1200*. Almost cleans up with this RiffRaff wheel. I'm happy.

Monday I have 2 gallons of Redline MTL coming in. Found a good price from Eliteracefab.com. small Veteran owned company. 2 gallons for $105 shipped.

 

So I changed my fluid and I saw a small chunk of metal in the pan. I tried my best to get pictures. Im unsure if there are more right now because it's not an open top style drain pan.

Definitely a machined piece of metal.



Any ideas? I'm not real worried about it at this point, to be honest, because the truck shifts fine for the most part.

 

Looks like it could be the end of a snapring.

 

I was thinking that, also. It is machined on the flat edge, and broken on the half-hole edge.

 

This may be the precursor of a big issue. Or it may be fine forever. There is a snapring in there that gets replaced by a special spiral version during rebuilds. Someone with more 4R100 knowledge will need to pipe in with more info.

 

I think that was a coast clutch issue. Something about being under 40 mph or something. Ive got a ZF6 truck though.

 

Oh gee… how’d I miss that?

 

My problems with stalling came back. I was coming thru central TX yesterday and it started stalling on me again. It would just die, just like before. Is there a certain trick to cleaning the contacts for the hydra? I only used the brush, and thought I had it fixed. Got me nervous enough that I pulled over and took the chip out so I don't fry the pcm this far from home. I'm picking up a camper today and then heading back to the the wonderful state of New Mexico! Yay! Texas is so nice. Freedom...

I have my family with me, so I'm hoping for no more trouble on the way home. I did notice a vibration from 55-65 that is steady. It's a speed related, not rpm or gear. Does not feel like tires. U joints are new. Any ideas? Do wheel bearings vibrate before going out? I basically brought my whole toolbox with me just in case but I'd rather not use it lol.

 

PHP has some YouTube videos of how to clean the PCM contacts. Basically you need to get ALL the silicone off the board where the chip will slide on, even between the contacts, but not remove the silver. IIRC he uses the back of the brush Woden handle as a start to get the big stuff, then goes to the wire brush, then light hit with scotchbrite. But confirm before trying this route.

It’s been so long I don’t remember exactly but I believe I used a lot of fingernail for the heavy stuff. I ended up going too far into the copper for my truck (have done better with others) but it hasn’t given me any issues so I just run it. Someday I may have it retinned.

I don’t have experience with the vibration but could it be the carrier bearing?

 

After using wooden handle and then brass brush, I’ve been using a pick tool in between the pins on the board to remove silicone.

If it stalls with chip unplugged, consider unplugging ICP sensor and see if that helps. Also check ton nut on IPR.

For vibration, check rear differential for play in pinion bearing and backlash. Mine vibrated pretty good before the catastrophic failure... You can also check front axle knuckle seals by trying to move the u-joint/axle shaft up and down inside the knuckle. The seals locate the shafts in the center of knuckle and when they go bad they allow the shafts to droop and bind - spinning with hubs unlocked and vibrating because shafts are doing jump rope maneuvers.

 

I'll find that video and watch it. I didn't have an issue coming back home though, which is good. Just no power lol.

The carrier is about a year and half old and was good when I did u joints. I will check it again. It was also on my list of culprits.
Thankfully it didn't stall with it unplugged. It's like the ignition switch gets turned off. I was watching everything on Forscan and it loses connection.

You're experience with the rear end was also in the back of my mind. I will check that and the front axles.

 

I believe Listor recently had a similar issue and found the PCM wire harness not fully seated.

 

Haven't had a chance to put this thing up jack stands yet. I did drive it a bit and the vibration is much more pronounced while taking left turns at speed. Even if I just do a hard lane change it makes itself more present and then immediately goes back to "normal" vibration and sound when going straight or right hand corners. This only appears above 55.

I plan to put the rear on jacks to rule out/in the front end.

 

Put the rear on jacks just now. Still can find the actual culprit. Support bearing has a small tear in the rubber, but it seems to support still and is not wobbly when I push the driveshaft around. It's cheap enough to change and not too labor intensive. I think I will do that next. U joints were done in March, but I greased them again anyway. No change.

I'm starting to think transfer case.
Oil is good and red in it, but that doesn't rule out a bearing.

EDIT: never mind the transfer case. I dropped the shaft, and no vibration. The carrier bearing is a little noisy just spinning it. It spins free without catching, but...

 

Just another update. I was still chasing that vibration. I replaced the bearing again, and it got way worse. I think my culprit was the front u joint this whole time. I'm guessing when hammered (yes I know, terrible) the new bearing on, it smashed the u joint and damaged it further. I didn't have time and needed the truck so we took off on a decently far trip. It made it there and back, very loudly I might add. I dropped the shaft and decided to just take it to my local napa and have the. Replace it. All is good now. Still seems to drone, but I'm starting to think it's the straight pipe. I plan on putting a muffler in soon to see what that does. Recent picture, just cause.

Feeding cows back in January.