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I basically never see up-pipes that aren’t leaking anymore and you can expect non-leakers to leak after pulling turbo... The hardest part about changing up-pipes is pulling turbo.
Nothing wrong with the bolt in EBPV delete. Won’t hurt anything even if it leaks a tiny bit.
I basically never see up-pipes that aren’t leaking anymore and you can expect non-leakers to leak after pulling turbo... The hardest part about changing up-pipes is pulling turbo.
Nothing wrong with the bolt in EBPV delete. Won’t hurt anything even if it leaks a tiny bit.
I wasn’t going to bust his bubble since he’s already got the turbo back on.
But yeah, the stock style always ends up leaking. And cheap bellowed SS sets can be had for less than $100.
I basically never see up-pipes that aren’t leaking anymore and you can expect non-leakers to leak after pulling turbo... The hardest part about changing up-pipes is pulling turbo.
Nothing wrong with the bolt in EBPV delete. Won’t hurt anything even if it leaks a tiny bit.
Well if they do, they do lol. Good excuse to throw a KC turbine in if I gotta pull it again later on. I'm just happy to fix these oil leaks and get some real tunes. I have an old gameboy style edge right now and the only tune that is normal is the 40hp. The others are trash.
Well if they do, they do lol. Good excuse to throw a KC turbine in if I gotta pull it again later on. I'm just happy to fix these oil leaks and get some real tunes. I have an old gameboy style edge right now and the only tune that is normal is the 40hp. The others are trash.
I’m not mad at ya!! Didn’t realize turbo was back on already...
Good luck!!!
Look forward to your updates when you start smokin the tires again!
I wasn’t going to bust his bubble since he’s already got the turbo back on.
But yeah, the stock style always ends up leaking. And cheap bellowed SS sets can be had for less than $100.
Na you're not busting my bubble. If it happens it happens. I'm grateful for the advice,
I’m not mad at ya!! Didn’t realize turbo was back on already...
Good luck!!!
Look forward to your updates when you start smokin the tires again!
Never thought you were mad, sir. Yes the turbo is back on. I would put everything back together today, but I'm doing U joints down at my FILs. He's got a press. Thats one tool that I am missing. Depending on how it goes, I may jump back in this afternoon.
Well the truck is all back together and running. I hit all of the items on my list. Now, wouldn't you know it, more things have popped up. Once, I got the gauges installed, I was alerted to an issue. My fuel pressure. At Idle, it is only 41lbs at best. Under load it goes into the 20s. I ordered parts from RiffRaff for the pressure regulator, which I think is the culprit. Sous advised to blow the line backwards from the pump to the tank, but I have not done that yet. I am nervous to be messing with the pump and the lines. I guess if the end of the line breaks, it will be cut off and rubber hose clamped in place. That's another bridge to cross if it comes. Another issue I am chasing is my windows suddenly stopped working, and the dome. Fuses and relays are good, as is the switch. Possibly a broken wire somewhere. I am not quite sure yet. My brother did say that he had a plug come unplugged under the dash one time and that did the same thing. Something I will be checking.
Other that those issues, the truck is running well. If I didn't have the gauge on it, I would never know it was losing fuel pressure. I ran the wires thru a grommet that I found near the PCM. I had to trim the PCM support bracket to run the wires up into the dash. Its a lot better than drilling a hole. U joints were fun, and two caps broke the tops off. I had never seen that before. Can't think of anything else that's gone on with it in the last 10 days. Nice little convient hole with a grommet. I just cut the middle out and threaded the wires thru. Kinda hard to reach from the engine bay, but it worked out great.
Fuel pressure gauge, such a waste of money when everything is right, so crucial when something is amiss. It is a boring gauge but will cut investigation time down greatly any time something pops up. Immediately can rule out or go directly to a fuel pressure issue.
Glad you spotted the problem and can get it back in shape. I’m gonna guess the FPR rebuild kit will fix you up. Let us know what you find!
Well the truck is all back together and running. I hit all of the items on my list. Now, wouldn't you know it, more things have popped up. Once, I got the gauges installed, I was alerted to an issue. My fuel pressure. At Idle, it is only 41lbs at best. Under load it goes into the 20s. I ordered parts from RiffRaff for the pressure regulator, which I think is the culprit. Sous advised to blow the line backwards from the pump to the tank, but I have not done that yet. I am nervous to be messing with the pump and the lines. I guess if the end of the line breaks, it will be cut off and rubber hose clamped in place. That's another bridge to cross if it comes. Another issue I am chasing is my windows suddenly stopped working, and the dome. Fuses and relays are good, as is the switch. Possibly a broken wire somewhere. I am not quite sure yet. My brother did say that he had a plug come unplugged under the dash one time and that did the same thing. Something I will be checking.
Other that those issues, the truck is running well. If I didn't have the gauge on it, I would never know it was losing fuel pressure. I ran the wires thru a grommet that I found near the PCM. I had to trim the PCM support bracket to run the wires up into the dash. Its a lot better than drilling a hole. U joints were fun, and two caps broke the tops off. I had never seen that before. Can't think of anything else that's gone on with it in the last 10 days. Nice little convient hole with a grommet. I just cut the middle out and threaded the wires thru. Kinda hard to reach from the engine bay, but it worked out great.
Sir, I would NOT advise you to do anything you are not comfortable with. We have sometimes recommended the blowing out of the in tank filters for people that had no other choice available to them and needed the truck to go. This is only a temporary fix at best anyway and I am glad to see you are looking at ways to correct the issues the right way.
Ford says 32 PSI minimum for an engine under load, so you definitely were on the right track.
There may be some random plugs under your dash for various accessories that your truck was not equipped with, so if you find something look into it first before thinking that was your problem or one of your problems.
As Jason said, very boring and useless gauge until it isn't... That gauge can save your **** at times and save you a lot of money as it is very hard on injectors to run without proper fuel pressure. I recently replaced my drive shaft U-joints and it was a mystery just identifying the proper U-joints. I have a short bed super cab and a single piece rear drive shaft with a double cardan joint on the front. Everyone I called insisted I was wrong about the makeup of the drive shaft, so I had to figure the U-joints out for myself. It all worked out in the end though and now they are fresh and hopefully ready to roll for another 250,000 miles.
You are doing some great things here and we will continue to encourage you each step of the way.
Sir, I would NOT advise you to do anything you are not comfortable with. We have sometimes recommended the blowing out of the in tank filters for people that had no other choice available to them and needed the truck to go. This is only a temporary fix at best anyway and I am glad to see you are looking at ways to correct the issues the right way.
Ford says 32 PSI minimum for an engine under load, so you definitely were on the right track.
There may be some random plugs under your dash for various accessories that your truck was not equipped with, so if you find something look into it first before thinking that was your problem or one of your problems.
As Jason said, very boring and useless gauge until it isn't... That gauge can save your **** at times and save you a lot of money as it is very hard on injectors to run without proper fuel pressure. I recently replaced my drive shaft U-joints and it was a mystery just identifying the proper U-joints. I have a short bed super cab and a single piece rear drive shaft with a double cardan joint on the front. Everyone I called insisted I was wrong about the makeup of the drive shaft, so I had to figure the U-joints out for myself. It all worked out in the end though and now they are fresh and hopefully ready to roll for another 250,000 miles.
You are doing some great things here and we will continue to encourage you each step of the way.
Yea, I am just taking it slow. Haven't drove the truck in a few days. Was only driving it around to burn fuel so I could drop the tank if need be. Thanks for the tip though. It honestly may save me on the side of the road some day. I will most likely drop the tank later this year. Now just isn't a good time for me to mess with it. The regulator rebuild will be much quicker.
I had originally ordered some Moog u joints from Rock Auto a while back. Measured the end cap like it was asking for. Silly me, I ordered 1350 joints and needed 1410. Oreillys had some greasable china 1410s available so that's what I did. I had to rebuild the double cardan on my old truck. That was absolutely the worst u joint experience I have ever had and will never do one of those again. It will either be removed, or I will pay a shop lol. I hate paying shops.
I found what was going on with the windows. The fuse taps I used from Napa are weird. They have two fuse ports. When I placed them originally, I couldn't get power to the gauges with only 1 fuse in the ports. Put a 2nd in and voila, power. The other fuse tap I was using is for the color memory on the gauges [yes they are GlowShi(f)t]. This was tapped into the fuse for the dome light. I pulled out the fuse from the tap and put it back into the panel and the relay clicked. Pulled it back out and then it didn't work again in the tap. I put another 5 amp mini fuse in there with the required 10 amp and once again voila, windows. The weird part is that the gauges still held their memory and the circuit was complete. It had been working for a few days and randomly stopped while out driving. Worked one minute, then at a drive thru, nothing. That's why I originally missed it. Weird, but I found it.
Fuel pressure gauge, such a waste of money when everything is right, so crucial when something is amiss. It is a boring gauge but will cut investigation time down greatly any time something pops up. Immediately can rule out or go directly to a fuel pressure issue.
Glad you spotted the problem and can get it back in shape. I’m gonna guess the FPR rebuild kit will fix you up. Let us know what you find!
Yep, one that never moves, but when it does its trouble. I can monitor everything else pretty much from my phone with the Torque app.
Yep, one that never moves, but when it does its trouble. I can monitor everything else pretty much from my phone with the Torque app.
You are dead on right!
Check out FORScan Lite as an alternative to TP. If you are happy with TP, by all means stick with it. Many of us have had troubles with TP ranging from spotty connection, reset and reload, not reading codes, etc. Although, many have no issues at all.
FSL is very simple looking compared to TP, but it works very well and is a very robust tool to have with you.
Check out some of the links below if you are interested in seeing what else is out there.
Check out FORScan Lite as an alternative to TP. If you are happy with TP, by all means stick with it. Many of us have had troubles with TP ranging from spotty connection, reset and reload, not reading codes, etc. Although, many have no issues at all.
FSL is very simple looking compared to TP, but it works very well and is a very robust tool to have with you.
Check out some of the links below if you are interested in seeing what else is out there.
I had used FORScan when we first got our F150 for a couple of things. When I tried it again, it said something about a user license. Haven't put much thought into again. FSL does intrigue me, I just never looked real hard at it because I had torque. I noticed today while scanning for codes that it tried to kill the truck while scanning. It got real lopey during the scan, then cleared up.
I can relate -- that happened to me. That's when I dumped TP and spent time learning Forscan Lite.
Yea it's been fine for years. Just did this since installing the Hydra. But since I am definitely not going back, I think I too will be learning Forscan.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
