Hey, Annaleigh, where is that pump, if I may ask? I want to replace mine.

 

I'm sorry Steve but I cant seem to find that add now. I bought the one from Amazon for $111.00 and then saw the one for $70. I started to cancel the Amazon order and buy the one for $70 but something didn't seem right about it, maybe it was because the price was so low... Amazon does have one right now for $118.00

After receiving the pump I contacted Ford and sent them pics of the pump. They said it appeared to be a genuine Motorcraft pump. They had concerns of how Amazon was able to sell it so cheap though. They want me to cut the label off of the shipping box and send it to them. I think they are going to try to track it down. It appears theft is another problem along with counterfeit parts.
Another thing. Amazon indicates that there is a motorcraft warranty but Ford said no but Amazon does have a good return policy from what I understand.
If you notice on the page it shows "Ships from and sold by Amazon.com." My invoice though shows "Sold by: Amazon.com Services LLC" and also states "Return eligible through Jan 31, 2020". Maybe I better go a head and swap the pump out and make sure it works before the end of the month! I can always save the old one for a spare.

I didn't buy mine because I needed it right now but because the price was so low. I have read lots of bad things about aftermarket pumps and thought, well this one lasted 30 years so I think I'll replace it with a factory part.

Are you sure your pump is bad and it is not a ground or other connection? BTW single or duel tanks?

I have to run out for a while but will search again and see if I can find the $70 one again... I am not sure if I used the PF-5, PF%, or ford part number when I found it.

Here is a part number from the pump I bought..


I took it out of the mounting bracket.






If you use the part number on the pump, be careful that it has the correct end fittings for the lines to connect to.

 

Ok Steve, I found the bookmark for the $70 pump but it is no longer listed. I found it under the ford engineering part id number. Sometimes people list the engineering number rather then the part number.

If you have time and are willing to do a little homework to verify what I think I have found, if i am correct, you could save some money.
The Ford/Motorcraft packing label on the box my pump came in is dated May 2018. I mentioned this to the contact at ford brand parts when I sent the email and pictures. I said I am surprised that Ford is still having this part manufactured. Apparently it fits newer models but uses a different part number?

Here is her replyHi AnnaLeigh,

From the photos you sent it looks genuine but I’m not sure how Amazon can be selling it for such a low price. I can check further if you send me cardboard flap that has the label on it, I would need the entire label so you could just cut around it and leave some of the cardboard around the edges. I can send you a FedEx shipper label that you can print out and take it to a FedEx store and they have envelopes there. Let me know if you would like to do this.


OK moving on. So the Ford engineering part numbers on the pump E7TF-9350-AA
The Bosch part number is 9580810020

I ran across this Bosch pump part number 9580810021
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-Elect...-/173395566364
If you scroll down the page you will see that the one of the Ford interchange numbers is E7TF9350AA

So if you have time I would call Bosch and give them the part number from my pump as well as the pump listed on ebay and see if they are in fact the same... There might even be a couple of other part numbers that would interchange and you could find the pump much cheaper...

One last thing to keep in mine is the GPM and max pressure needs to match. The only difference in the Bosch part numbers is the last digit. That pump on ebay does not have the threaded adapter included so that could be the difference. perhaps your old one would fit..

https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/fuel-pumps

 

Thanks annaleigh.

when I go to your amazon link, it says it does not fit my 1990 E-350. I'll have to pull my pump and look for part numbers.

Single tank.

I have no idea what is causing the shutdown. It seems to happen when the weather is hot and the vehicle has been running for a while and slows down. But last weekend the weather was cool and it did it after a long run and then slowing down (dumped my tanks).

But I caught it in the act this time - my fuel pressure gauge first read only 10 PSI. With repeated key-on/key-off, it finally came up to 20 PSI. My guess is that this was the in-tank pump pushing pressure.
After I waited about 20 minutes, the pressure came up to 40 PSI with key-on, and then the engine ran fine.

So I am highly suspecting the high pressure pump at this time. Why it's failing to pump, I don't know. When I replaced the fuel filter, I noticed the wires to the pump were worn and some conductors were exposed, and someone had repaired with electrical tape that was old and crusty and falling apart. I re-wrapped the wires with fresh tape.

Steve

 

Sometimes when my van is warm and I turn my ignition switch to the on position, I do not hear the high pressure pump wine for a second but the van still starts up.
It is my understanding that both pumps are on the same fuel pump relay and that the ECM controls the fuel pump relay.
This diagram is for a single tank 1988 E150


So if yours is wired like mine, if the low pressure pump in the tank is working and the high pressure pump is not, it would have to be either the pump or a bad connection.
connector C999 has to split off so it appears it is possible for one pump to run and not the other. I do not know how much pressure the low pressure pump will provide. Scanning through the low pressure pump specs at rock auto, the pressure varies from 3 to 9 psi depending on what brand pump. Scanning RA pumps for your 1990 and my 1988, the max pressure is 99 to 116psi.


As to which pump...
I noticed that Rock Auto lists the PF-5 for my 1988 E150 with a 5.0 but not for your 1990 E350 with a 7.5. If you look at the info tab for alternate part numbers you will find the ford part number E7UZ-9C407-AA in both...

If you go to fordpartsgiant.com and enter your van info and then do a search for fuel pump, it brings up E7UZ-9C407-A a replaced by E7UZ-9C407-AA and that is the same part as my 1988 uses. The newest part number is PF-5 But I understand for that price one better make sure it is the correct pump...
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/Page_...ords=fuel+pump



If the pump relay is failing then both pumps will quit. I really need to install a fuel pressure gauge like you did so I can see what my pressure is!

 

Thanks for the research info on the pumps. Sounds like E7UZ-9C407-AA is the right one.

About 5 years ago, my in-tank pump burned up. By "burn up", I mean it melted metal. Amazing that it can do that in a tank full of gas and not blow up (no air).

Anyway, the trip before the pump burned up, the fuel pump relay burned up. This was probably caused by the fuel pump being almost burned up. A little while after that, the pump itself burned up. When it burned up, it took out everything else along the circuit - the inertial switch and the fuel pump relay.

I have been eying the Inertial Switch. I can see black electrical tape where they spliced a new one back in. I'm going to unwrap the tape and see if they did a poor job with the splices.

It's also possible that when the in-tank pump burned up taking out everything else along the way, that it damaged the high-pressure pump.

And of course I put the OEM fuel pressure regulator back in - it still could be that.

I also have to clamp-on ammeters that I have not installed. When I replace the HP pump, I'm going to put one of the ammeters on it. The bracket I made for the fuel pressure gauge already has the cutouts for the ammeters.

Steve

 

I went to Rockauto.com and it lists this Bosche pump as "Original OE":

BOSCH 69100 {#E7TZ9C407BA} Electric Info
In-Line; Actual OE part

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...789&cc=1117336

Evidently, this is a PF4 pump.

And it's only $67. I will order it.

I installed the GlowShift dual pressure gauge. I figured if I was going to install one to get a dual pressure gauge and monitor oil pressure also.
I had already installed a dual temperature gauge to monitor engine coolant and transmission fluid temperatures.

Seems like good products and good customer service. The pressure gauge quit working after about a month, but I may have crushed a connector with the bracket during installation. I explained this to them and they replaced it under warranty anyway.

Steve

 

Well, I got my fuel pump pulled. It's part number is Bosch 9580810021, E7TF-9350-AA.

This is not what Rock Auto or Amazon recommend, which i the above link (Bosch 69100).

amazon does have the 9580810021:


So what should I do? Install what I got from RockAuto, or get the actual Bosch part?

When I put my VIN into the Bosch we site, it comes back with 69100 as actual OEM part. I guess I'll go with it.

Steve

 

Well I went for a test drive. Everything seems fine. I went on my usual test circuit, no stumbles in the usual places until I got back to the storage lot, and as I was going up the hill there at 45 MPH I *might* have felt some light stumbles.
So I went on my longer test circuit and had zero problems. No stumbles.

We'll see.

 

Well, I don't know what exactly to tell you about the Bosch fuel pump other then I am more confused then I was. Since i saw your post earlier this week about the PF4 pump, I have been trying to dig up some useful information like the difference between the PF4 and PF5. I have not found it yet. I did find that the Bosch 69100 seems to work for either. PF4 or PF5 replacements. I called Bosch and that is about all they would tell me. I ask about flow rates and pressures between the pump I bought and the one you bought but they couldn't give them to me.
I checked Walbro's cross reference site and they use the same Walbro GCL601 for both applications also.

The E7TF-9350-AA is a Ford engineering part number and not an actual part number per say. That is the same Ford engineering number that is stamped into the pump housing on my pump. A difference between mine and yours is the Bosch part number. Yours ends in 21 while mine ends in 20. When I ask Bosch, they said they are the same pump.?? Perhaps yours came with a connection kit while mine had sealed leads already connected to the pump. Either way something caused a change in the last digit of the part number.

My ford part number on the box is




E7UZ-9C407-AA while your part number listed by Rock Auto is E7TZ-9C407-BA

The prefix numbers are E7UZ and E7TZ
1st-- letter stands for the decade C=1960's, D=1970's, E=1980's, F=1990's, and then they changed their system somewhat.
2nd- stands for the actual year of the decade E7=1987, E8 would equal 1988 and ect.
3rd-- A,B,C,D,E, ect stands for they type of vehicle U= Econoline/Club Wagon van while T= Truck
4th - Z= Ford service part

The center group of numbers/letters. (basic call out numbers) I don't quite understand what the letter is for yet but the numbers come in groups that represent different groups of parts. Example any number between 9000 = Fuel/Oil Gauges parts. hence 9407 is a fuel pump.

So your part number indicates 1987 ford fuel pump.

Now you have o add the suffix letters. E7TZ-9C407-"BA" or E7UZ-9C407-"AA" The suffix indicates revisions made to the part.
I am not sure about your E7TZ but the E7UZ-9C407AA Ford Parts Giant shows the original part number being E7UZ-9C407-"A" Replaced by E7UZ-9C407-"AA" The PF5 is either a updater Ford part number or more likely a Motorcraft part number.

Here is a site that explains the part numbers a bit better and there are other sites too.
https://www.lincolnoldparts.com/pdf/..._Breakdown.pdf


From my research, either pump should work, I did notice the pf4 is seldom listed for a van but is for trucks and Broncos and Aerostars



Glad the van ran better.. you said: "I *might* have felt some light stumbles." I feel like that sometimes and then think,,, was that just a small rough spot in the road?
Is that how yours is sometimes?

My van has a new gas tank and a new rear in-tank pump.The PO had replaced them. I had to replace the in tank pump again shortly after I bought the van. I am way behind in replacing my fuel filter as it has 35k on it now. I plan to do that real soon as well as swap out the high pressure fuel pumps. I think I mentioned this before but, I when I turn the ignition switch to run, there are times I only hear the rear in tank pump come on. When I first got the van i always heard the front pump come on.
One last part in the fuel system besides the FPR would be the fuel reservoir.. I think part number F0TZ-9k044-A

From what I have read, there is no filter in this reservoir. It is simply for times when say you floor the gas peddle to downshift while going up a mountain. The extra fuel in the reservoir i supposed to help with pressure drop or lack of fuel. I guess it is possible that it cold get some floating trash inside it or perhaps some build up but the only reason I have read about for people changing them is if they crack and leak. I will buy one for a spare when I come across a very cheap one!

I believe all of the fuel lines are nylon/plastic? like material so they shouldn't have rust in them.

I have been watching what you do as well as putting in Techron fuel injector cleaner when I get down to 1/2 a tank, twice now. I have not experienced a major skip or jerk since the first bottle. I do get those little ones that make me wonder if it is the road of the engine. I am still getting a snap sound like a plug wire ark when pulling up a long grade but it is no longer connected to a skip/jerk. I will be going on a 100 mile round trip next week and will see what mine is doing now...

Interesting was the last time i went on a 140 mile round trip. i am at the foothills of the N GA mountains so even on the interstate there are some long uphill grades, but the van jerked a little on the way down and I was thinking about turning round. I went on anyway and on the return trip, the van did great! So we will see..

 

Yup, this is an RV, and it has all the grace of a tank. Everything rattles and shudders at the slightest defect in the road.

Here are pictures of my fuel pump.

https://imgur.com/a/eqSySCA

One thing I note is that the OEM pump has spade connectors, while the replacement has threaded.

 

Wonder if those bare spots in the leads may have been touching or hitting something and causing your stumble with certain vibrations/harmonics from the shift. At certain speeds/rpms you'll get that drone from the engine pulling hard at low rpm so maybe when it shifts and drones it causes a vibration that would move the wires enough to touch or rub something. Sounds a bit far fetched but ya never know. Had an crank position sensor issue on my wife's astro that I finally traced to rubbing on the frame. I hate electrical issues.

 

I had hoped so when I discovered them some weeks back, but I covered them with electrical tape and the problem persisted.

Since I had it out, I put shrink tubing over the bare spots when I replaced the pump.

Steve

 

Took the RV out on a trip this weekend. The stumble is still there. I'm assuming at this point it's the torque converter lock-up problem spoken about up-thread. It's very slight, and only really does it when lugging the engine. I now try to avoid lugging by forcing a downshift by either flooring it or turning off the overdrive via the switch on the dash.

RV went 5 hours without issue though.

Steve

 

So are you going to put a torque converter in it or keep driving it with the clutch slipping ?
Slipping/chattering torque converter raises transmission fluid temperature / clutch material contamination and ultimately cause transmission failure. Torque converters are relatively cheap to replace compared to a trans rebuild.