I notice that one of my trucks has the original flathead generator and a 12 volt voltage regulator on it. Does this work i have not been able to start the flathead yet to test. It also came with no battery so as best i can tell its still a. 6 volt system no markings on coil or solenoid.

 

Yes it was commonly done, so long as the current demands were low it worked fine. In those days they didn't have all the accessories and seat warmers and power windows etc.

 

EDITED VERSION auto correct made a mess....

I know absolutely nothing about vehicle electrical stuff so forgive the potentially ridiculous question.

Does a 12v regulator allow you to keep a 6v positive ground system to run the vehicle gauges etc. but also then use 12 v accessories like a radio. Is this a way to be able to add a stereo without having to convert to a 12v system and how many amps can it support?

Any education is welcome, I am trying to learn as much as I can.

 

Haven't done it myself, so I can't say. What's supposed to happen is change out the field coils to 12 volts, or install a 6 volt generator. If you've ever tried to remove those field coils, you'll know why nobody does this.The 6 volt generator can persuaded to output 12 volts, but the current output is reduced. I would expect it worked OK for lights and accessories if only barely. People were more frugal back then. Generators aren't cheap to buy today particularly, though I'd imagine if you know the right curmudgeon they'd give one away. Not much call for them.

 

I was looking for a ballast resistor to tell me they converted to 12v but didnt see one. I know the starter is 6v and generater. The solenold looks 12v as the voltage regulator is . Red terminal is on solenoid as a positive terminal would be .. maybe i should just switch to 12 volt to be sure.

 

If I read your post correctly, you have a 6 volt positive ground system and you want to run a 12 volt negative ground stereo or other 12 volt accessories. Yes, it can be done, and the simplest way is to first convert to 6 volt negative ground which consists of swapping the battery cables, swapping the ignition coil primary wires, flashing the generator, and installing a booster. Bear in mind that boosters use significant current in the boosting process, and your booster output will be much less than if you had a 12 volt system. A 10 amp booster is about as big as you can get before costs rise exponentially.


One other thing. You will have to reverse the direction of the wire through the ammeter loop so it will read correctly.

 

No the reason for the post is that i have a mix of 12v and 6 volt items that i cant tell without seeiing a coil number if its 6v or 12 . The obvious was the original generator saying 6 volt but but other things pointing towards a switch to 12 volt.. i was asking if the 6volt generator can put out enough to charge a 12 volt system then it would make sense that its been switched to 12v

 

My post was for 8pack Sorry 'bout that. Generally speaking, you can tell the difference between 6v and 12v circuits by the size (AWG) of legitimate (OEM, component manufacturer) wiring. A lot of people wing it so it's not that reliable if some slack-jawed side-steppin' beach creature did the wiring job..

 

Sorry Bob i didn't understand. that's my problem is i'm doing new wiring too and i see the solenoid and voltage regulator looks 12 volt.

 

I've seen voltage regulators with their voltage stamped on the base, and sometimes inked on the backside. If there's any kind of number on the starter relay Google it, you could get lucky.

 

I edited my original post as it was a mess. Sorry about that. I think you answered what I asked despite the incoherent original post.