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Not having any big issues, just small ones that Im learning as we go. When I initially got the engine together and put back in the truck it was running good. This carb has set in the garage for 4 or 5 years, so after running a week or two it started having problems. Took the top off and could see the bowl gurgling. Turned out to be the power valve. Carb had been rebuilt before it got set aside so I did nothing but put it in the truck. Mistake. So, I put in new power valve and gaskets. Needle and seats were already new and clean. Then ran good again but is hard starting. The choke isnt setting properly and the choke pull-off is broken where it attaches to the choke linkage. I have a choke pull-off that will be here at oreilleys at 2:30, a couple hours from now. I put a new seal in the choke and changed the tension on it so it would set the choke when the pedal is pushed. I will udjust again once the rest is running correctly. The problem that I havent figured out yet is about the choke heater tube, whether I need that or not. The exhaust manifold does not have the tube attachment that would run to the carb.
A picture of the broken choke pull-off.
From this picture, would the water hose that hooks the the side of the choke be the heat source? I have no reason the believe the exhaust manifold has been changed. Its cast date is correct for the truck year. So I think the engine is all original. So just trying to figure out what heats the choke spring.
There are 3 types of chokes. hand choke requires a linkage cable/ rod into the cabin. Stove pipe choke that uses a air tube in, near or on the manifold. finally electric choke that uses a keyed 12v power to heat the coil in the choke housing. I have always use the electric type.
Thx for the info. I just got finished installing the new choke pull-off. I pushed pedal and set choke then it fired but I think I let the key go too fast and it died. But I also thought, here we go again. I didnt touch the throttle and cranked over again and it fired right up at fast idle. I could feel the vacuum where the tube would connect on the back side of the choke. I guess I would rather switch to electric choke that drill holes in the exhaust manifold. If that the only options Would I then have to plug the vacuum?
The answer is yes. Electric & Manual Cable choke need no vacuum or hot air hookup.
Plug off any open vacuum nipples that you are not using so you don't have a vacuum leak that will affect your motor start & run operation. I use an electric choke on my Holley 2300 2bbl but I have used lots of manual cable type also. good luck with your project.
I understand about the three different chokes but did they use electric chokes in 1970 on f250 trucks. Im just wondering why my manifold doesnt have the hot air attachment. My carburetor is not the original from when I bought the truck. I wasnt thinking 23 years ago and got a rebuilt for it instead of fixing what I had. I like keeping my parts nowadays. I have a pair of 1974 cast exhaust manifolds laying around as well that has the hor air attachment on passenger side but I would like to keep this one numbers matching for the heck of it. Thanks for the help.
My truck sure is starting cold really nice finally. I adjusted the choke setting a few times over a couple days. I dont have a hot air tube on it yet, but there is nowhere to mount it either. I messed with the fast idle a little one day while not understanding it. I got lost so its not even back where it started. I still dont understand how it all works yet but would like to fix that as well.
1browski, if I can figure out how to post a picture, I can show you how we did the heater tube off of the passenger side manifold. It's been in the teens here in the morning and she starts easy with the choke working well.
Thanks Eric, I would ilke to see your set up. I made another couple adjustments today. First, the truck seemed to not want to idle down after being driven for a while and up to operating temps. I lifted up on gas pedal this morning and it idled down a little. So, I figured I needed to adjust the throttle linkage that I made for the truck. When I got home, I loosened the throttle linkage and it was still high. It ended up that the dashpot was out a little far. I backed it away and it idle the rest of the way down, then I adjusted it to absorb and not hold it up. Then I also made a 1/4 turn out on the idle. Put it in gear to confirm it wasnt going to stall. So far so good. Does anyone know the thread size for the hot air choke tube on the back side of the carb. I tried some small bolts I had laying around but didnt have anything the same size. Thank you.
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