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Guys,
I have searched previous posts and haven't found the information I'm seeking....I have my heart set on American Racing Torq Thrust wheels. I want to plus size and the dealer recommends 18x9 wheels with 0 offset and 255/55R18 tires. The issue lies in the hub size. The American Racing wheels will only clear hubs which are shorter that 58MM (2.3") with a diameter less than 74MM (2.9").
In the attached picture the you can see the hub length is approximately 2.234" without the grease cap which is under the 2.3" required by the manufacturer. First question is, does the hub length include the grease cap which would bring the length to 2.75"? Also hub diameter shows to be 2.65" but if you measure the step at the rotor it's 3.5" which is out of spec for the wheels. So my second question is, does the hub diameter include the step on the rotor? Third question, has anyone ran larger wheels without lift and was there clearance issues?
The wheels will be custom made so I will not be able to return if incorrect. Any insight you can provide will be helpful.
.
Could the wheel fit if you used a wheel spacer of say a 1/4"?
I have a car I need to run a spacer for my 14" TT to clear the duel piston calipers on the front.
Just make sure you get lug nut that fit with that spacer you may use.
Dave ----
Could the wheel fit if you used a wheel spacer of say a 1/4"?
I have a car I need to run a spacer for my 14" TT to clear the duel piston calipers on the front.
Just make sure you get lug nut that fit with that spacer you may use.
Dave ----
What is zero offset? I hope that is not the same as zero backspace. Zero backspace would pretty much put the whole wheel and tire beyond the fender lip of the truck.
What is zero offset? I hope that is not the same as zero backspace. Zero backspace would pretty much put the whole wheel and tire beyond the fender lip of the truck.
Really?
If you had a 8" wheel with say +7" off set where would that put the bolt pattern?
Remember off set or back spacing goes by plus or negative from zero.
To me zero off set or back spacing is the same. 8" wheel with zero off set or back spacing would be right in the center of the wheel in my book.
Dave ----
I am not sure what the offset of the stock rim is. I want to say the backspacing is in the 3 inch range but that's going by memory and that is not very good anymore.
If the stock rim has zero offset (width same on either side of the mounting face) and you get a wider rim, it will be mandatory I would think to have some offset. You will have extra wheel width and most manufacturers put the extra width to the outside to keep from hitting suspension pieces and the frame.
The original poster said he was going to have 9 inch wide rims with zero offset. That would put 4.5 inches of the rim to the inside, that would have to be checked to make sure it didn't hit on the inside of the rim anywhere.
I am not sure what the offset of the stock rim is. I want to say the backspacing is in the 3 inch range but that's going by memory and that is not very good anymore.
If the stock rim has zero offset (width same on either side of the mounting face) and you get a wider rim, it will be mandatory I would think to have some offset. You will have extra wheel width and most manufacturers put the extra width to the outside to keep from hitting suspension pieces and the frame.
The original poster said he was going to have 9 inch wide rims with zero offset. That would put 4.5 inches of the rim to the inside, that would have to be checked to make sure it didn't hit on the inside of the rim anywhere.
The rim is just 1 part remember an inflated tire will be wider than the rim/wheel and that is what his the suspension parts or frame most of the time.
I think a lot with off set / back spacing has to do the size wheel you are staring with and the size you are going to.
Going up say 1" maybe even 2" only moves the wheel inside / outside of center 1/2" to 1". I think most cars & truck can go +1" from stock with no issues.
I don't remember what factory steel wheel is for a 86 K5 Blazer but I installed 10" wheels and had no issues other than the tires I ran. I felt they where to small for that wide of a wheel and the tire manf. said it was ok they just did not wear good.
Dave ----
Zero offset is considered centerline of the wheel. Positive offset would place more wheel to the inside of the vehicle. Negative offset would place more of the wheel to the street side. Offset has much to do with the design of the wheel. The way the spokes are designed for esthetic reasons. So offset for wheels will change for vehicles to allow for clearance issues. In my particular circumstance zero offset was recommended. My issue lies in the center cap. Ford hubs are possibly to large for this type of wheel. As others have mentioned I believe a spacer would solve the issue.
I am going to hijack my own post just for an update:
I bought a 302 engine that came from a 1987 Crown Victoria and stripped it down and had the blocked machined and began my first ever build at the age of 54. This is to go into my 1983 Ford F100 I've owned since I was 18. Below is a list of major parts installed:
Comp Cams Magnum 215 hydraulic roller cam
White Performance SBF assembled aluminum heads 60CC 185CC
Weiand Street Warrior Dual Plane intake
Holley Sniper EFI 4150 4BBL
Holley HyperSpark ignition
Fought if for the longest to get it to fire. Backfire was the most I could get. Over the course of weeks in my free time I checked everything I knew to check. Happened one day the UPS driver was dropping off one of the many things my wife purchases from Amazon (whole other story) while I was under the hood scratching my head. Didn't know him from Adam but he offered to take a look. Turns out my rockers were too tight. I never would have guessed!!!
Said all of that to say this... The advice you give to others here on this forum means the world to them. Thanks for replying!
