Hi all, I’ve posted a time or two before but currently I’m in dire need for help! I’ve scoured wiring diagrams, and I believe I have my alternator harness wired up correctly. No issues appear when the battery is hooked up, but as soon as the key is turned on, both to accessory and to the on position, the Voltage regulator begins to heat up, rather quickly. I have replaced it three times now, my first regulator was burnt out when I received the truck, the second was getting hot so I looked to see if it was the issue. I traded it in and now I am on my third, the most expensive electronic VR O’reillys can offer. The alternator is charging, and my ammeter is reading a positive charge. The ammeter for the record is an external wired unit, and splices into no wires at all. I am at a complete loss. I will have photos of the wiring on my fender apron tomorrow. Thanks for any advice at all.

Have a goodun’

 

Have you taken the Alt. to a parts store and had it checked. It sounds like something in the Alt. or harness is shorted to ground. Or you don't have a proper ground between the Alt. and the regulator. Check the ground wire in the harness that runs between the regulator and the Alt. I don't know what kind of amp meter you have but if it was there before you got the truck I would disconnect it and see what happens. That is a pretty simple harness, almost stand alone, it only requires the green/red wire to the Alt. light to have voltage to supply current to the field for it to work. Also if there is a condenser still plugged into the yellow wire at the regulator unplug it to see if it is shorted. Just do one thing at a time until you find the problem.

 

I took the alternator into Oreillys way back when, and it read fine, was charging at a steady 14.7. I will check the grounds as soon as I get home, as far as I can tell, the only way there should be ground issues is if there is a break in the wire within the harness. I’ve checked with and without the ammeter installed, it’s out of an F350, however my truck came with one factory, as my dash has the hole punched for one, among other evidence. With the ammeter unhooked, the problem still persists. I’ll certainly take a look when I’m home, appreciate the response.

Heres some reference images if ya need them

 

Why so many wires hooked to the resistor bypass coil lug on the starter solenoid?

 

Electronic Ignition, assuming you’re talking about the I terminal on the solenoid.

 

Well that terminal is only momentary when you start the engine to provide 12v to the coil for start-up. After that it only has the 6-8v that the resistor wire provides as a back feed. That's what confuses me.

 

This is the electronic solid state alternator regulator that Ford replaced the original 1963/81 points type alternator regulator with in 1982.

The wiring harness is the same for both.

However this version is an auto parts store replacement probably made in China. The Ford regulator has MOTORCRAFT embossed diagonally on the cover.

Ford updated the 1982 part number in 1990: FOPZ-10316-A (Motorcraft GR-540-B)

 

However this version is an auto parts store replacement probably made in China. The Ford regulator has MOTORCRAFT embossed diagonally on the cover.

Sadly and much to my disappointment the last Motorcraft GR-540-B I bought was also marked Made in China. But it does say Motorcraft on it and it works. If his came from O'Reilly's it's most likely a Standard and just as good as any others, heck they are all probably made in the same Chinese sweat shop just put in different boxes.
Years ago I had a friend who owned a small chemical plant that formulated anti-freeze and brake fluid. I was over there one day when they were canning brake fluid for Texaco while we were watching the girl at the end of the line box the containers the line stopped and she moved the Texaco boxes. The line started back up and presto Shell containers. He said the next run was going to be for Wal-Mart. It all came from the same tank.

 

Brik
To address your problem. I do not see the yellow wire from the "A" terminal connected to that junction block. Also the main feed wire going to the cab should also be on that junction block. You might want to think about buying a new Alt. harness. If you can't afford one you may have to remove yours and un-tape it and we will help you sort it out.
Here is a picture of mine.

 

Not trying to hijac thread but...Crop duster, where did you get the single post terminal block mounted next to starter solenoid..been looking for one thanks

 

I think it came from an E-bay seller. But about any place that does car stereos would probably have something like it.

 

Thank Y’all for your quick replies.

To address things as I go along, I’ll start with the newest development. I had her running for about 15 minutes yesterday. Nothing was out of the ordinary, and I was getting a solid 14.7. The Voltage Reg got warm, not nothing over 80 degrees at anyone time. In the same amount of time, if left with the key simply on, and nothing running, it will usually spike well over 100 degrees. So, I need to put the truck under more load for a longer period of time to see if this causes any change, but for now, that’s the newest development.

Christmas, I’m quite honestly unsure. I wired the box to later model ford diagrams as to match with my current engine and dizzy.

Nd, I’ve been contemplating getting a proper motorcraft VR, however I fear that that won’t solve the problem, so I just haven’t dropped the money yet, simply seeing if it is a wiring problem, if so the voltage reg isn’t at fault for.

Crop duster, I appreciate you pointing that out, and I’ll get to moving over that wire today, I actually followed a guide from years ago in the installation of my ammeter that you were involved in, I saw that exact picture, and it must have slipped my mind. I appreciate you highlighting it.

Following putting my drivers side window back together I’m going to run the truck for close to 45 minutes, and take her around the block a few times today or tomorrow. If the VR is still getting hot, I think I’ll be pulling my harness off and ripping it open. If issues persist I’m going to consider getting a 66 mustang alt harness to replace it, ya never know with these old wires. I appreciate the help everyone, till later today or tomorrow.
Have a g’dun

 

Young man. I thought you said in your first post that regulator was getting HOT. 80 to 100 degrees is not hot and a perfectly normal temperature for the regulator and the alternator also. If it is just sitting with the key on acc. or run.
This is why it gets warm with the key on either ACC. or Run. The charge indicator light circuit supplies current to the field relay. Turn the key and the field relay closes. The engine isn't running so basically your voltage regulator is slowly draining your battery thru the ALT. Field circuit to ground.
I still want to know where both ends of that yellow wire is connected. In a good harness it would begin at the center post on the ignition switch to the "A" terminal on the regulator then to the junction block or + side of the starter relay or even the BAT terminal on the alternator. It needs to be connected that way for the system to work as advertised.

 

There's really no good reason to ever place the ignition to RUN for any appreciable length of time without actually running the engine, this is why ACC position was invented in the first place. There might be some voltage checks to make during troubleshooting or something like that, but once they are complete immediately turn the key to OFF or start the engine, turn to ACC, etc.

 

What if your regulator starts smoking in the ACC position? My regulator is pretty old( came with the truck)